it will crank over real good and start right up,take it out to the field and shut it off,will barely crank over acts like the battery is dead,wait 15 minutes,and it will crank over just fine,it has a new battery in it,and it shows its charging.it has a 352 with 5 speed trany any ideas? thanks
- Thread starter JD2ACWD
- Start date
Michael Soldan
Well-known Member
The starter gets warm from cranking,then the heat from the engine warms it more..doesn't want to spin....cool for a while and works again..time for a rebuilt starter or a used one..had an old Dodge that did the same thing..used starter solved all problems...just a thought...good luck
Tom in TN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern Middle Tennessee
JD2,
I'm with Michael. I had a 1962 Impala Super Sport 409 that did the same thing. A rebuilt starter fixed that one too.
YMMV, but it worked for me.
Tom in TN
I'm with Michael. I had a 1962 Impala Super Sport 409 that did the same thing. A rebuilt starter fixed that one too.
YMMV, but it worked for me.
Tom in TN
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Burnt field windings in the starter.
Allan
Allan
When it has failed, hold switch in position for starter to crank, then carefully trace by feel the entire starter circuit; including battery, starter, cables and ground connections. If you find something that is hotter than it should be, that is likely where the problem is, because of high resistance.
Wheat Farmer
Well-known Member
Had the same problem. Spent $$$$ at a shop. Took it home and same problem. Looked at it myself. After cranking for awhile feel cable. Neg battery cable was grounded to a manifold bolt. Changed it to another bolt. Worked great.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Bosch starter is about 50 bucks at rockauto, be in your mail box in a couple days... It'll leave you stranded when you need it most.....
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known Member
[/quote]
First off its a 351W not a 352. And since you have a 5 speed just park on a hill when its warmed up, that way you can just pop the clutch and be on your way.
As others have said - bad starter.
Could be the solenoid too I suppose - but those are often integrated with the starter, and a moot point.
If they're not integrated, - I might try replacing the solenoid first since it's cheaper, and not a bad thing to change out while you're replacing the starter anyways.
If it still doesn't work right - do the starter too.
Could be the solenoid too I suppose - but those are often integrated with the starter, and a moot point.
If they're not integrated, - I might try replacing the solenoid first since it's cheaper, and not a bad thing to change out while you're replacing the starter anyways.
If it still doesn't work right - do the starter too.
My 89 F-350 has had this problem multiple times. The solution is to take off the ground cable where it bolts onto the engine and clean it up the best you can with a wire brush and bolt it back on. It connects either on or right next to the exhaust manifold and the continuous expansion/contraction makes it prone to rusting up (at least that's my theory). I've had to repeat the procedure twice over the past 5 years and it's due for another round.
Not sure if it's your problem, but it's worth a look before you buy a new starter. I assumed it was the starter on mine when it first happened so and now I have a spare starter.
Not sure if it's your problem, but it's worth a look before you buy a new starter. I assumed it was the starter on mine when it first happened so and now I have a spare starter.
Hal/Eastern WA
Member
Something not mentioned by others is the positive battery cable. With my 84 F250, I had a hot start problem for a while. It would start fine cold, even down below zero, but if the engine was hot and it sat for 10 or 15 minutes, the engine would not turn over until it cooled down again. I tried a new starter and a new solenoid, with no improvement. But then I changed the positive battery cable, and discovered that was the problem. I cut into the old cable, which looked perfect from the outside, no bulging or discoloration of the insulation, and found that the insulation was full of blue powder and only a few strands of copper wire were still carrying electricity. Apparently there was enough capacity to turn the engine over when it was cold with those few wires, but when the engine was heat soaked, there just was not enough capacity.
I spent a lot more money figuring out the problem than I really needed to. Now anytime I have a problem with an engine turning over, I start with charging the battery, but then check the cables.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
I spent a lot more money figuring out the problem than I really needed to. Now anytime I have a problem with an engine turning over, I start with charging the battery, but then check the cables.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Hal/Eastern WA, It is likely that my trouble shooting suggestion below; "When it has failed, hold switch in position for starter to crank, then carefully trace by feel the entire starter circuit; including battery, starter, cables and ground connections. If you find something that is hotter than it should be, that is likely where the problem is, because of high resistance.", would have isolated your problem.
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