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Anyone want to guess what this is?

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
This is a proto-type. If it works the boss has ordered about 50 of them. I'll respond in a few days if no one has guessed it. Patient pending.
George
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Dave2 you are the winner. Mike, you came in a close second.

The boss has a split rail fence made the old fashion way, v-shaped and made from native locust. These are going to be above ground fence posts. Can't buy post holes at the Menards and there are too many tree roots to think of drilling a hole. Hope it works out. Hope I can pull the 4 inch pcv out and reuse. I put a handle inside the pipe and twisted it a few times.

This was too easy. I thought no one would guess it.

Congrats to Dave2.

George
 

I'd leave the plastic in there myself.... May be better than having the wood touching the cement????

Let me know how they work, maybe a pic of the fence also? I could put something like that to good use....
 
Dave, I'm too cheap to not try to pull the plastic out. Each pipe is 8 inches, 2 ft per post. That's about 100 ft of 4 inch pcv. Not to mention I'll have to cut them, used a trim saw.

The sand and gravel is free, only expense will be the portland cement.

Plan to put a chain in the holes and lift with the little guy.

It may take months to get these posts mass produced. Will have to make more forms too. Forms are made from used lumber. The first set of forms took about 4 hours to design and build. Next set will be faster.

George
 
I made a mold for an item I needed several of a couple of years back. Showed it to one of our local redimix companies that makes concrete culverts and they agreed to pour them for me with my mold for less than I could buy the ingredients. Just a thought.
 
Tape a peice of your wife,s wax paper around the plastic sleves before you pour and you should be abel to pull them out. Could also use tinfoil but wax paper will be cheaper. A lengths of re bar down each side would really finish the deal.
 
There isn't wire or rebar in a cement block. This is only supporting a few pounds.
JR suggested oil, did that.
JM suggested wax paper, may try.
Learned that the screw heads holding the forms to the plywood should be covered with grease to keep the concrete and sand out.
Learned the plastic sleeves are not perfect cylinders. Did a little damage the last inch.
I have a few ideas to make the cylinder extraction work better.
Going to get more plywood. Allow the posts to set for a few days while I make more using the two forms I made.
If there is a problem with strength, I'll make the mix a little stronger.

BOSS IS HAPPY WITH THE DESIGN AND THE LITTLE FLAWS AREN'T AN ISSUE.

George
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(quoted from post at 14:03:45 08/23/12) Tape a peice of your wife,s wax paper around the plastic sleves before you pour and you should be abel to pull them out. Could also use tinfoil but wax paper will be cheaper. A lengths of re bar down each side would really finish the deal.
Click to expand...

Do they still make waxed paper? My sandwiches were wrapped in it forty-five years ago, but I haven't seen it in years.
 
Oil all the areas that are in contact with the cement. The concrete won't stick to the plywood if it is oiled before pouring in the concrete.
 
If you have a lot of them to make - and if you have a lathe - I'd turn some wooden cylinders instead of the pvc - with a veerrry slight taper from one end to the other (like a cone - but so slight that you wouldn't notice it's not a perfect cylinder).

They'll pop right out no problem - no damage.

(supposed you could also turn the pvc to do the same thing - but would think solid wood would be easier to fasten to your mold.
 
I'd also add rebar - ideally two or three upside down "U" shapes that go up one side, around the top, and down the other side.

Doesn't matter that they're not supporting much weight - you still have to move them, and that's when they'll crack.

Hard to judge the size from the picture - but they look heavy enough to be tempted to put a chain through the top hole to lift it with a bucket... they won't like that.

So I'd either do the rebar or make a few extras to replace the ones that crack.
 
JR,
As for the sleeves, I do have a lath, but plan to cover the plastic with cardboard. Bet I'll be able to extract without an issue. Also plan to put tar paper on plywood base. I coated everything with used oil, 10x40.

This is just my proto-type and a learning curve. Looking forward to making about 50 of them once the wrinkes are worked out.

If I do use rebar, I'll bend a loop and have it come out the top to give a place to lift from.

The only reason I would use rebar is if I can't move the posts without breaking them. Calculate they will be around 175#.

How does someone change their name to cement mixer or Is this just another thread where??

George
 
JR,
Your suggestion kept going through my head and tried to figure out how I going to stand them up, 175#+. So I found found some used 1/4 rod, bent it to fit in the form. Put card board around sleeve. About 10 this evening, I'll pull things apart. Think it's going to work well. Going to let then cure for about 5 or 6 days before I try lifting them. I think it will work well. Thanks

George
 
Try splitting the plastic sleeves longways with a hacksaw, they should then collapse in slightly to remove but you may have to stuff them with paper or card to keep them from collapsing while filling the concrete.Why not use old plastic bottles? fill them with water and screw on the lid to stop them collapsing then just cut them out or simply cut off the top and bottom and leave the rest. Tapered styrofoam or paper cups may also work if you fill them with cement first. the taper should allow them to be pushed out if they have been greased up beforehand,and you can use them again. Just some ideas that may help.....
Disclaimer...none of these ideas have been tried at home, they are only ideas. if you do put them into practice you do so at your own risk, I will not be buying you any concrete to replace what doesn't work out!....LOL
Sam
 
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