Wet sleeve engine problem

I bought a tractor to restore. It'll be used a little,but mostly a trailer queen. It had been leaking coollant in to the oil. I pulled the sleeves and the block is pitted a little more than I'm comfortable with. I know some pullers use some kind of cement in the blocks when they bore them real thin. Is there anything that anybody knows of that could be poured in the bottom of the block,say maybe a quarter to a half inch thick while the head is off,to help seal the o-rings on the sleeves? Something like a liquid silicone that would gel up or something like that?
Been thinking about running a ring of silicone around the top o-ring before I soap them up to put them in,but a pour in liquid that would set up would be a better option.

If it was something that I was going to use more,I know you can get them machined and get a bushing put in,but I don't want to go that far with this one.

Send me an e-mail

you can get a product like Moroso block filler at parts stores. I used it on an old W-30 block that was badly cracked and pushed out . I just put about an inch deep to cover the worst spot so I could get it running to see if the rest of the tractor was worth saving. Its been in there 5 yrs now, just putt around and pull wagons in the fall mostly. The concrete based stuff is pretty cheap, the higher grade stuff more $.But yes that is a viable option in my opinion.

Years ago when I rebuilt my first Oliver 77 engine the botton was pitted down past the top O ring. I ask the Oliver dealer if the bottom O ring would hold. He said probably not. He said that a lot of the old 77's were that way and they used bondo to fill the pits and form the top sealing area for the O ring. That is what I did and have done since. Never had a leaking problem with the bondo.

Whatcha restoring?

Oliver Super 55.

Check your mail,I sent it.

Belzona will work as a pit filler. Good for high temps and can be machined.

www.belzona.com/products/purpose/metal-repair.aspx

Checked out this website and this stuff looks like your answer.

THIS WILL Work....

With a Clean water-jacket interior, work about 1 1/2 Pints of Non-Hardening Permatex all around the entire water jacket floor..encasing each sleeve, where it meets the Block at the bottom..

Ron..

My son does this stuff for a living,runs an engine machine shop. He just stopped to get the pressure plate to take it to Clutch Dynamics tomorrow and get that fixed. He said if it was his,he would just use JB Weld,smooth it in real good with a credit card or something after cleaning it up with muratic acid. Then he said to use some good pipe dope paste made for plumbing. Said to use that as a lubricant instead of soap when I put it together. He seemed to think that would do it after looking at it.

How do you get it all the way around them though? Especially the front and rear ones?

Take any freeze-plugs out and work it around with a bent wire..or (if you can) tip the block..

Ron..

isn't the block cut out for the o-ring,if so if the back side of the groove is smooth it should still seal because the o-ring OD will set against a smooth surface and the ID will fit against the new sleeve, for insurance thoroughly clean the surfaces apply a bead of high quality RTV silicon to the sleeve and coat the o-ring with it then install it the silicon will act as a lube during installation,don't use soap or oil with the rtv it will cause it not to adhere to the metal or o-ring, make sure the sleeve is where you want and try not to move until and after the rtv cures

No. On that one the grooves are in the sleeve not the block. Some of the wet sleeve Deeres had the grooves in the block,some were in the sleeve. This is an Oliver and they're in the sleeve too.

Loctite makes a sleeve retaining compound. I have used it on many wet sleeve blocks that had electrolysis eat holes in the oring areas. I never have had one leak yet.

I just clean everything up real well. Parts cleaner and a rotary wire brush in my die grinder. Then install the oring on the sleeve(Oliver Motor) Then run a bead of the sleeve sealer around the bottom of the sleeve and the top of the seal area on the block. Install the sleeve without any other lubricant. Have some bolts and washers to hold the sleeve into full depth. Let set for 24 hours. Then always keep the hold down bolts in until your ready to set the cylinder head on.

First time I ever used it was on an Old Detroit 8V71 that the sleeves had come loose in an worked up and down. They had worn the block down past the low limit. The local Detroit dealer told me to use this. I did it. The engine is still running now after 16 years. It is on an old Terex Dump truck.

It is: Loctite® 640™ Retaining Compound

"Loctite® Sleeve Retainer 640™ is a high temperature anaerobic adhesive that secures slip and press fit assemblies. Adds up to 3,000 psi holding power. Restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies. Prevents surface corrosion. Works to 400°F."
Loctite 640 sleeve retaining compound.

There used to be a bulletin from Oliver that said to use bondo. It's been a long time but I did see it. (Never tried it)(Never had to)

RT (Just a 2 cents)

(quoted from post at 19:12:13 08/21/12) Belzona will work as a pit filler. Good for high temps and can be machined.

www.belzona.com/products/purpose/metal-repair.aspx

Click to expand...

My nearest neighbor works for Belzona and if I want to get him going, I'll mention something I repaired with JB Weld. He'll go off like a roman candle on the 4th of July. He claims Belzona was making a 2 part mix repair product before JB Weld was ever heard of. I've seen some of his repair work with Belzona and it is a good product but a bit pricy, but as with everything you get what you pay for. I would recommend Belzona to anyone. As VernMI said, you can machine it or tap threads in it and it will withstand high temps with no problems.

rrlund, Just thinking, you might want to check the front axle for slop, as the one I helped on had it all slopped out. Had a machine shop re bush it.