4010 D injector pump rebuild?

so, my 4010 tractor has been stalling out, I replaced the fuel filters, but still stalling, then I read an old post here that says look in the injector pump timing window. Yes, black granules inside. So a re-build is required. How much $$$ are we talking? So, does low sulfur fuel have anything to do with this or just use and age.
 
I think age and use is involved more than anything. I had a couple of pumps do that 15 years ago. I don't remember what the rebuild cost.
 
They claim that the low sulfur fuel did not make any difference. I know that a whole bunch of pumps failed right after they pulled the sulfur out.

You injection pump rebuild should be in the $400-600 at most places. If it is just a tear down an clean up and dampening ring replacement. I usually have them replace the governor cage with the solid one that does away with the dampening ring.

The parts are less than $125 the rest is labor. I rebuild them myself it does take a few special tools but not many. A bristol wrench to remove the governor ring screw it the most important.
 
Most of the ones I have had rebuilt went from 300 to 600. The worst was almost 980.00. But it needed a complete rebuild.
 
JD is correct , have them put in the steel gov weight retaining "cage" and no more problems. Might as well have a Stanadyne rebuilder do it. Probably hasn't been "right" for a long time. They have the "dyno" and will replace all even slightly worn parts because the cumulative tollerances will cause it to fail the specs when on the dyno.This is the "heart and soul" of the engine so do it right. Every spec at every rpm will be correct as if new plus updates. I used to rebuild them at a Stanadyne fascility and I don't believe you will get one "right" doing it by ear and feel.
 
(quoted from post at 17:07:16 08/19/12) They claim that the low sulfur fuel did not make any difference. I know that a whole bunch of pumps failed right after they pulled the sulfur out.

You injection pump rebuild should be in the $400-600 at most places. If it is just a tear down an clean up and dampening ring replacement. I usually have them replace the governor cage with the solid one that does away with the dampening ring.

The parts are less than $125 the rest is labor. I rebuild them myself it does take a few special tools but not many. A bristol wrench to remove the governor ring screw it the most important.

JD Seller, I am planning to rebuild a DB Roosamaster myself this winter. Is the bristol wrench likely to be one of the heads in the two different sets of tips that I have that include torqs and various others?

Colin
 
A Bristol wrench is a straight splined wrench. The Standadye old part number subs up to a ground off torque socket. The problem is that it has tapered splines not straight splines like a true Bristol wrench has. I have had them explode the cam bolt.

I have also found that you need to take a punch and go down in to the bottom of the spine and hit it hard one time. This seems to loosen the cam bolt and they will come out much easier.

Just buy a small set of the Bristol wrenches. They are like Allen wrenches but with the straight splines. You can get sets for the $20 range. The one you need is about 5/16. I would have to measure it to be exactly sure. To see the screw all you have to do is take the plug out of the bottom of the injection pump. That plug is there just to give excess to the cam screw.
a79733.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:36:40 08/19/12) A Bristol wrench is a straight splined wrench. The Standadye old part number subs up to a ground off torque socket. The problem is that it has tapered splines not straight splines like a true Bristol wrench has. I have had them explode the cam bolt.

I have also found that you need to take a punch and go down in to the bottom of the spine and hit it hard one time. This seems to loosen the cam bolt and they will come out much easier.

Just buy a small set of the Bristol wrenches. They are like Allen wrenches but with the straight splines. You can get sets for the $20 range. The one you need is about 5/16. I would have to measure it to be exactly sure. To see the screw all you have to do is take the plug out of the bottom of the injection pump. That plug is there just to give excess to the cam screw.
a79733.jpg

Thanks, JDS
 

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