Old handstart JD tractor

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I just bought a 2cyl gas handstart John Deere model B. I am not sure on the year. It"s in pretty rough shape. The manifold is cracked and brittle, the rimstires need to be replaced and it looks like it needs a lot of work on the fuel system (carb rebuild, sediment bowl clean, etc). I was hoping I could get some advice on where to start working on it. When it comes time to try to start it, I would at least like to hear a couple of pops from the old girl. Also, this is my first flywheel start tractor I have bought. I am not sure on how to position the petcocks, feelinglooking for the right position in the flywheel. Thanks!!
 
You must feel like testing your endurance and frustration levels. It was one of the best days in my life when Dad got rid of our old hand-start JD"s. He had 3 of them.
 
It's all practice and technique.Back when I was in my in my prime and muscled up from farm work and weight training. Somebody at a show could not start their D.
After I struggled and sweated to obtain a series of "pops" and kick backs for 10-15 minutes. And gathered a crowd.
An old timer and his wife hobbled along on their cane and walker. Took the old coot about two minutes to start the D.
The old couple walked about 30 years younger when they left. Probably got lucky that night too.
 
Do you know anything about the basics of a 4 stroke gasoline engine? Buff up on your schooling and then it's pretty simple. The impulse on the magneto should "click" just as the flywheel comes over top dead center on the compression stroke. That's when it fires. If you have spark and fuel it will run. If you hear the petcocks hissing they are open. What the petcocks do is relieve some of the compression so it is easier for you to turn the flywheel. It also tells you which side is coming up on compression stroke.
 
For year you are talking about the petcocks so it has to be a styled tractor and they started making them in 1939, the unstyled did not have the petcocks, if it has a 6 speed transmission it has to be 1941 thru early 1947 and have the angle type frame, later ones a pressed steel frame. Later ones also were not avaible as hand start. You should have 5:00 X 15" front tires. A 4 speed could be ant year 39 to 47. It should have low compression kerosine pistons in and a hot manifold with 2 fuel tanks. Large being kerosine but most would run only gas.
 
Several years ago we bought a hand start 39B from a young man that had lost interest in the project.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Uncle%20Earl/?action=view�t=IMG_1638.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_1638.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Uncle%20Earl/?action=view�t=IMG_1637.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_1637.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Uncle%20Earl/?action=view�t=IMG_1636.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_1636.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

You also need to post your questions on the <a href="http://www.ytmag.com/jd/wwwboard1.html">John Deere forum</a> on this website.

There are several folks on the John Deere forum that are willing to share valuable information on refurbishing your tractor.

When the time comes to start your tractor, the "process" is basically the same for all of them.

The "technique" of choke setting, throttle setting, and flywheel turning will probably be different for your tractor.

Eventually you will find the <a href="http://youtu.be/CIjNH2ghdTA">"right" combination</a> that works best.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Uncle%20Earl/?action=view&current=IMG_3389.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_3389.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

Good luck with your Model B project.
 
Sounds like you may have to start with a new manifold, then the other things you noticed, carb fuel system liklely the Magneto etc. Id say its gonna be a while before you hear her pop pop pop pop.

The manifold studs will likely all break off meaning getting them extracted from the head and then having the head surfaces machined/planed down smooth and with a new gasket n studs and a manifold and some dollars step one will be complete. If youre not experienced there are several carb and mag rebuilders out there.

Once all that is done the mag needs timed so she snaps/impulses when the flywheels Left Hand Impulse timing mark is at the flat mark on the tractors side at 3 o clock. You open the petcocks for starting then close them once she starts

If youre not experienced this would take 100 pages of guidance so take it one step at a time and post on the JD page is my advice. Its gonna be a real money pit for a while

best wishes

John T
 
We had one but I don't remember the model. We would bring it up to compression and rock the fly wheel back and fourth two or three time and then spin it over. Same thing with prop-ing an airplane. We lost that JD while mowing high weeds and the spark plugs started a fire.
 
Thanks for the compliment on the tractor.

Try to use <a href="http://youtu.be/0hiR2tO_DzY">"Uncle Earl"</a> at least once or twice during hay season.
 
You turn the flywheel counter clockwise until you feel great resistance. At that point position your compression releases so they emit a loud hissing sound. Half a turn later the right side will do the same. Now you know where they need to be. On a correctly tuned/adjusted tractor , you only need to turn the flywheel once or twice around to start. Resist the natural temptation to try to hurl it around fast like you would pull a chainsaw rope or lawnmower rope. No need for it and will just wear you out and rip your hands up. If it sucks fuel mixture in correctly and you roll it up and past compression and it gets spark correctly , you will hear a pop and/or it will start. Sounds like you have a lot to check/fix before that point though. Take out the plugs and roll it over with plug wire 1/8" away from a metal area on tractor (nice to have a helper on this)and check for spark. If you have spark at the wires , buy 2 new plugs for it and gap and install them now. Remove the two bolts at the front of the carb that hold it and the air inlet together, and slide the air tube to the side a little. Using squirt bottle or pump type oil can , squirt a squirt of fuel back into the carb. Set at half throttle and procede to roll it over. It should at least fire a couple times. If you have "clean fresh" gas in the tank and carb is even half functional , it may even start. Once you do this very crude but quick and functional test , then post on with results for further help. I'm sure it will need a lot but this will tell you real quick which direction you need to go first...and that was your main question on here.
 
Thanks a bunch guys for all your help. I have enough information to at least know where to start tinkering on it. I will keep you guys informed on the progress. Thanks again. I posted a picture of it on here. It's under John Deere model B, from Caleb G. in Wyoming. Check it out! Once again thanks, you guys have been a big help!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top