Kubota engine starting/electrical problems?

I have a skid steer with a Kubota engine and I think Kubota electrics/(ignition switch anyway). For the last couple of months the starter hasn't always wanted to engage. It will click most times but not turn over. Now the headlights, fuel gauge and charging/oil pressure lights don't work with the key in the on position. Could it be a bad ignition switch? I think I've read where some Kubota's have weird starting problems.

I had the alternator changed to a 2 wire with internal reg. about a year ago by an experienced auto electric shop. The charging light would be on when it was started but go out after it was revved up which wasn't a problem. The hour meter used to only work when the alternator was turning but with the new alternator, I had to wire the hour meter to an extra lead on the ignition switch. It runs when the key is turned on but is still nice to have an idea of hours for maintenance. I never checked if the hour meter was ticking but suspect it wasn't because none of the other electrics worked. Any advice is appreciated.

Is it a new holland skid steer?

Let me know what model adn approximate year and we can go from there. I'll walk you through a flow chart of what to check and in what order, and your problem will be solved.

It's a 94 Thomas T133 but I think it comes from
Kubota with the starting and charging circuit. The
original alt. with external regulator was nothing
but problems on all the Thomas machines so I finally
changed it after not being able to get voltage reg.
to work properly.

The deal with a kubota engine is, they put them in many different machines. It won't be teh same from a new holland to a thomas and both have kubota engines.

The thing about a skidsteer is, the newer ones (say 1985 and newer) have starter interlock systems with computer boxes that prevent hydraulic flow and ignition unless you are in teh seat, and the seat belt or safety bar is latched.

As for the Thomas skidsteers, I am not that familiar, but, I have fooled with them somewhat. Generally speaking, if you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens, the first place to start is with the battery, and the battery terminals. IF you are saying that is ok, but you are loosing all functions that normally only work in the "run" position, I would start with the hot wire to the ignition switch for "run" accessories. does the machine have a fuel pump solenoid that automatically shuts the engine down when you turn the key off, or do you decrease the throttle to fully closed to stop the engine? If you can answer that, I can take you through the next steps.

No start
Have you cleaned battery post connection and checked battery voltage. Yes it could be ign switch or some safety switch. Just check the easiest/simplest things first.

Could also be a bad ground somewhere.

Ya gotta voltmeter? If not, step one is to go to the store and buy one. Then it's just a matter of tracking down where you're losing power.

First thing I did was check the ground. I've had
problems with it before and put dielectric grease on
everything. The dash lights come on when the key is
turned backwards for the glow plugs but not when the
switch is in the on position. It just started doing
that yesterday.

Sounds like a bad switch to me.

The throttle lever shuts the engine off but you also
have to turn the key off to turn the dash lights,
etc. off. There is safety switch for the seat bar
that hasn't worked for quite a while. I have a volt
meter but wanted some help where to start.

Super in this situation i think it is in your best interest is to call in an EXPERT and pay him for his skill, you could make things worse as you go along.

check the wire to the run position to see if it is getting voltage. pull the ignition switch out, but leave the wires connected. The back of the switch will have a permanent hot, then an accessory hot, a run hot, and a start hot. there are no ground wires, all hot wires. the constant voltage hot wire should always have battery voltage. If you turn the key to the accesory position and things light up, I'd say you have a good constant 12v wire. so, with the switch pulled out and all wires still attached, turn the key off, find the hot wire. then, turn the key to teh accesory position and find the second hot for that. label them as you go. next, turn the key to the run position and see if you can find if either of the remaining two get voltage. if not, take a small jumper wire and jump from your constant hot to either of the 2 terminals. if your starter motor clicks or cranks over, that will be the start position wire. then the remaining wire will be the run position wire. jump to it and all the other stuff should work.

You didn't mention if the fuel pump, also wasn't working. you should hear that also when you turn the key to the run position. Also, you didn't mention if the engine will crank over if you turn it all the way to start position. Are either of these things happening?

by jumping hot across the terminals on teh back of the switch, you should be able to operate all functions of the switch. if you can do that, then yes, the switch is bad. IF you can't, then we have to go deeper into diagnostics. Not a big problem, but will take a lot more steps!


Let me know what you find.

John

It doesn't have a fuel pump. I'll pull the ignition
switch and do some voltage checks.

Thanks!

(quoted from post at 02:00:03 08/06/12) It doesn't have a fuel pump. I'll pull the ignition
switch and do some voltage checks.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Did you check battery voltage a cleanliness/tightness of the battery cables?? If not that should be done FIRST before checking any other wiring components. It pays to check the easiest things first.

I haven't heard back, what's it look like>? did you get it figured out?