UPDATE - 70 YO Sprocket

Kirk Grau

Member
Stopped at Lowes after church and picked up a cut-off tool. First thing I realized was that my little pancake compressor did not have enough volume to run this very long. Don"t have any other pneumatic tools other than some nailers so have not had that as an issue before.

Alternated running the cutter and whacking the slits with a BFH and cold chisel. Probably did not take more than 15-20 minutes to get the old one off. Put the new sprocket on with a shoulder bolt (grade 8), anybody have any issues with that approach. The "rivet" or pin that was called out in the parts book is no longer available from NI. Any real reason to shop around for a roll pin as some of you think should have been used in this application?

Filled the spreader up and took it for a spin. Seems to be working fine. Now probably have another 2 loads to take care of this afternoon.

Attached a few pictures. Thanks for the help on this.

Kirk
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Roll pin should be a standard hardware item available through any industrial hardware supplier. The bolt will work fine, my only concern would be the bolt has a different shear value and if something jams up you may twist or break something rather than snapping or shearing a pin, that being said usually roll pins aren't the sacrificial or shear pin in something like that.
 
Good deal.
That's what I'd a done, except probably with a cutoff disk and a Dremmel tool. Had a gearing on my baler yielded to same approach a few days ago.
 
Pretty cool that you can still get some parts for an old spreader like that.

Showed a friend the cut/cold chisel split cast trick last year. I didn't reply to your 1st post because others had already told you how to do it.

Die grinders, air sanders and cut off tools like that eat a lot of air. Unless you have patients that I lack you really need a big compressor to run one.

Rick
 
A couple of weeks ago, I basically did the same thing on a 3-piece steering shaft that had two universal joints in it that had been on a tractor since about '47. I used a 4-1/2" electric hand grinder until the universal joint housings were paper thin and then simply smacked it off with a hammer. My brother thought he could do a better job getting the steering wheel off by using a cutting torch, but he nicked the shaft up a little bit. Luckily, the new steering wheel completely covered up his "mistake". (He blamed it on his eyes. I think he was just showing me how fast he thought he could do it) I replaced mine with roll pins, as there probably is less pressure on my roll pins than your grade 8 bolts.
 
Should be a roll pin they ae available at part supply store afraid the bold will work loose i the sproket bet you did not have to drive it in like you would a roll pin. Just call my "hunch" experience.good go otherwise. gitrib
 
Reply to a couple of comments:

There is a shear bolt earlier in the transmission than this is. Previous installation had no provision to shear at this point. When I first got this spreader (might be the best $500 I ever spent) I was using Grade 2 bolts at the shear location, but really went through them fast and since this is loaded by the forkful, i.e. pretty easily shredded material, I changed over to Grade 5 and have lost a couple of them on heavier loads without destroying the rest of the unit yet so will probably keep going with that approach.

Parts Availability - I had to search a little bit through AGCO"s web site to find a dealer, closest is ~1 hour drive, but they found the part on another dealer"s shelf out West somewhere. He was probably just happy to see it leave his inventory. It is still available, but wait was 3-4 weeks. My assumption is that they don"t make one until they sell it at this point. As mentioned the rivet or pin that holds this to the shaft is NLA. It did set me back $100 for the part, but sure can't replace the spreader for that.
 
(quoted from post at 10:11:55 07/29/12) Reply to a couple of comments:

There is a shear bolt earlier in the transmission than this is. Previous installation had no provision to shear at this point. When I first got this spreader (might be the best $500 I ever spent) I was using Grade 2 bolts at the shear location, but really went through them fast and since this is loaded by the forkful, i.e. pretty easily shredded material, I changed over to Grade 5 and have lost a couple of them on heavier loads without destroying the rest of the unit yet so will probably keep going with that approach.

Parts Availability - I had to search a little bit through AGCO"s web site to find a dealer, closest is ~1 hour drive, but they found the part on another dealer"s shelf out West somewhere. He was probably just happy to see it leave his inventory. It is still available, but wait was 3-4 weeks. My assumption is that they don"t make one until they sell it at this point. As mentioned the rivet or pin that holds this to the shaft is NLA. It did set me back $100 for the part, but sure can't replace the spreader for that.

LOL I picked up a JD 33 spreader 2 years ago in really good shape for it's age for 600. I was looking at stuff in far worse condition for more money but got hard headed and waited for the right buy.

Rick
 
I think I would use a lesser grade bolt then the grade 8 since that is a shear pin. If say a grade 2 or grade 5 do not hold up you can always go stronger but if the grade 8 hold to well you may find your having things break that you do not want to break
 
I wouldn't worry about the bolt strength. The first year after that spreader was bought new the sprocket was rusted to the shaft anyway. Jim
 
You did a good job. That you where able to find a new sprocket was a good thing.

If you need to cut and don't have the air supply then just get the 4 1/2 inch cutting wheels that will fit into a 4 1/2 angle grinder. I had not seen them until I helped a guy build a steel building 4-5 years ago. They really cut and the angle grinder has way more torque than an pneumatic ones. They go on my grinder just like the normal grinding wheels. You just flip the bottom retaining washer to handle the thinner wheel.

Dewalt # DW8857 cost around $3 each.
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Those do work well, being thin, be absolutely sure to keep the guard in place and wear eye protection, but work well for cutting, I like Norton's version, but always keep those on hand.
 
My NI 12A spreader has that exact setup although it is much older. Mine has that gear held on with some old rusty bolt with a square nut on it. I've never given it a moment's thought. I think you will be ok. I'm glad to know parts are out there as some day I might need some.
 
(quoted from post at 13:18:51 07/29/12)
LOL I picked up a JD 33 spreader 2 years ago in really good shape for it's age for 600. I was looking at stuff in far worse condition for more money but got hard headed and waited for the right buy.

Rick

My experience was like yours. Really needed one, but the horses are a hobby/pets and did not really want to tie up much cash on a spreader. Haunted auctions and equipment dealers looking for something. First thought the small equipment like this would not be too pricey, but at the time demand must have been up from all the other small horse hobby types. Everything I saw was starting at $12-1300 and headed North from there, most of it was really abused as well. Wife saw this one advertised in the local classified weekly and I was calling and headed over to check it out that day with cash in hand. Been using it 7-8 years now with nothing more than grease/gear oil until this week. I am grateful for it everytime I get to watch the stall cleanings slide off the back. Only regret is that the seller had an old IH H hooked up to the spreader which was also for sale, as I recall he wanted about $1300 for it. It unpainted, but all there and straight as could be. Should have brought them both home in hind sight.

~Kirk
 

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