Baler PTO shafts??

Mine gets/got abused with all the tight spots, hard turns, and some idiot raising the 3pt hitch and binding t... Haven't disassembled anything yet (plastic safety covers).. Are these any different than shafts for other equipment (maybe double jointed, ORC, etc) other than material size and obviously length?
New one I am told is about 500 bucks but have found plenty the right length and material specs for around 100.... If it's an ORC, the tractor has similiar to live PTO and I have an ORC that I bought a couple years ago and used once. Think I could get by with that setup? If the ujoints are special and causing the high price, I'll look at just having the tubes replaced I guess... Baler is a german made (Welger AP45) compareable in size to the JD 24t..

Thanks, Dave

Most Euro stuff has metric shafts. That one is probably a Walter Scheid.... If you take the plastic shield off you'll see that it's a two sided or 'tear drop' shape shaft. Most times those tubes are retained in the yolks by a roll pin. Drive the roll pin out and then drive the tubes backwards from the yolk with a good sized drift punch. Then you just buy a length of the appropriate profile/size shaft tube and replace it, drill the hole when it's in place, reinstall the roll pins, etc.
Much cheaper than a complete shaft....

Rod

(quoted from post at 18:38:45 07/28/12) Most Euro stuff has metric shafts. That one is probably a Walter Scheid.... If you take the plastic shield off you'll see that it's a two sided or 'tear drop' shape shaft. Most times those tubes are retained in the yolks by a roll pin. Drive the roll pin out and then drive the tubes backwards from the yolk with a good sized drift punch. Then you just buy a length of the appropriate profile/size shaft tube and replace it, drill the hole when it's in place, reinstall the roll pins, etc.
Much cheaper than a complete shaft....

Rod

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You just made my day Bro!! It is a Walter Scheid with the tube like you mentioned, just didn't know about the pins. I'll do that, get new plastic gaurds, call it new, and pay attention to what I'm doing from now on.

Thanks.

Dave it would seem Rod solved your problem.

Does your PTO clear if the three point arms are all the way up??? Mine do on all of the PTO stuff I currently have. So I take a short piece of light 1/4 chain and hook it around the lift arm on one side. I put it where it will hold up the lift arms if some one goes to put the lever down. The three point hitches are just gravity down. So it does not take much to hold them up empty.

On my Oliver 1655 I used to just take the lift arms off in the summer. I did not use the three point much on it then and I did use the PTO a lot. I usually mowed and baled all the hay with it for years. It made using the baler and haybine much easier with the lift arms out of the road.

On my larger JD cab tractors I just loop a chain around the quick hitch and the cylinder transport bracket. My middle son wiped out the tongue on my disk mower by letting the three point down by accident and turning with the quick hitch down over the tongue. That was a $1500 dollar mess up. It had the drive line down it so we had to replace it so it would run straight.

(quoted from post at 20:07:54 07/28/12) Dave it would seem Rod solved your problem.

Does your PTO clear if the three point arms are all the way up??? Mine do on all of the PTO stuff I currently have. So I take a short piece of light 1/4 chain and hook it around the lift arm on one side. I put it where it will hold up the lift arms if some one goes to put the lever down. The three point hitches are just gravity down. So it does not take much to hold them up empty.

On my Oliver 1655 I used to just take the lift arms off in the summer. I did not use the three point much on it then and I did use the PTO a lot. I usually mowed and baled all the hay with it for years. It made using the baler and haybine much easier with the lift arms out of the road.

On my larger JD cab tractors I just loop a chain around the quick hitch and the cylinder transport bracket. My middle son wiped out the tongue on my disk mower by letting the three point down by accident and turning with the quick hitch down over the tongue. That was a $1500 dollar mess up. It had the drive line down it so we had to replace it so it would run straight.

Click to expand...

I don't have a drawbar like you folks are used to (solid mounted to the tractor). It's the flat bar that goes on the lift arms. Wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't for me grabbing the lift handle at the first sign of trouble. Raises up and binds/bends the PTO. Pretty much got myself weaned of that habit but had it a little high the other day AND left the trailer hitch ball on the drawbar. Sharp turn bent the PTO. Straightened it enough to work but it's just not right. Borrowed one from a neighbor's baler til I get a new one (get this one fixed now ) Gonna see if there is a way I can chain the lift arms so they won't lift high enough to bind...

Dave maybe just make a stop so you can't raise the three point control lever any higher. I have one made for when I use my rotary cutter. If you raise it too high it bends the PTO shaft. I just took a small carriage bolt the would fit into the slot the lever slides in. I then put a larger washer and a wing nut on the bolt. I just pop it in the slot and slide it down against the lever. So I just raise the mower up until the PTO is close. Then slide the bolt down against the lever and tighten the wing nut. So I have a down stop for setting the cutting height and an up stop to keep the PTO safe. I use it with my three point mounted hay tedder too. It will break the PTO yoke if raised too high.

On some of my other tractors you don't have an exposed slot. I just cut a small piece of wood and then wire tie it to make a positive up stop. Use it with the round bale mover on any of the cab tractors. If you raise the bale too high it will hit the back window.

Maybe you can make some thing like that to put on when you are using the PTO on a drawn implement.

Some of the old MFs had an adjustable top stop. I know my Uncle's MF 165 did. I think you where supposed to use it to let the lever back into a constant pump position for using external valves but it worked to keep the three point limited as well.

I also have seen guys just take a small pair of Vise grips and clamp the lever so it does not move at all when they want to hold a constant position.