Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
Is there a glue that is better than JB? JB is good up to 230 degrees. I used it to glue the intake back together. Motor works fine, however the temps are way north of 230. I ran it at a fast idle for a few minutes and then turned off.

Used someone's idea of making a metal plate. That was a good idea. I think I could have used high temp TRV to seal the intake leakes and the metal plate would hold the broken part in place.

Only time will tell if JB holds.
Can't post the pic of the metal patch

George
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Hope it works. I"ve also done what another suggested.....drill holes and insert pins with JB weld. JB can crack loose with side impact.
 
george, dont tell anybody, but i jb welded a hole in my '42 m exhaust manifold about 8 years ago, and its still holding. i think you should be fine.
 
Dunno....the JD Weld I have says it's good to 500° of "constant" heat, and 600° for 10 minutes.....

I have a Farmall block that I fixed with JB, been working fine.
 
The Loctite product used to seal water jackets on older aluminum V-8 engines melts above 400F. Others may be OK for higher temperatures. You could try contacting an industrial adhesives supplier.

Try the JB Weld for a while or take the motor to a machine shop to be fixed if you are worried about it. How many hours per year will the motor be running?
 
If I was dictator of all the world the first thing I would do is ban the use of JB weld to all but highly qualified users.
The second thing I would do is bring back the poll tax.
 
I dont think jb will hold this for long. But my kids stripped the spark plug out on a honda trail 70. I didnt have time to change the head and they wanted to ride. I cleaned the head up real good and the plug as well. Put jb weld on it and around the threads and pushed the plug back in and it never did come out in the 3 years we had it. I didnt change the head (and i had one)just to see how long it would hold.
 
Have you had a heat gun on it to see how hot the head gets? I'd wager it's not nearly as hot as you might think... JBWeld will probably outlast both of us if it was applied correctly.

Rod
 
That looks like one of those "progressive" repairs- try the JB Weld first, it will probably work, but if not, the thing will just fall apart, not self-destruct, so then progress on to the plate and some goop with more heat tolerance, and so on. At some point, it will be repaired well enough to outlast you, and that's really the goal.
 
JB will work fine at the temp the intake side of that engine runs as long as the part is reinforced a bit. A plate or pipe or screws will halp take the vertical and push and pull stress off. I would imagine the JB will start losing strength at a certain temp but still hold with some help from something solid. Gasoline does eventually, with time, soften JB. When you hit the kill switch to shut her down that piston is still pulling in fuel till all rotation stops and I imagine that intake port will be a little wet with gas until it evaporates. The engine might be worn out before the gas does it's damage, but it's just a thought.

A machine shop once told me they worked on a head that had been rebuilt by a rebuilder sometime before they worked on it and they found a hole in an intake port that had been JB'd and it still looked good after the head had been on a running car engine for awhile. Jim
 
Just learned this 5 hp briggs is a very special motor. Look closely at the first pic. This motor has a second counter rotating shaft for reverse gear. Can't find any motor like it on line. I have no choice but to fix the motor one way or another.

It wasn't that difficult to fix, so it the fix doesn't work, I'll look for glues with a higher temp.
George
 
If you use the old style JB weld it's good to 500 degrees. I had a piece to fix the other day and was wanting to get it done fast so I looked at the varuos products available. All of them, including the quick setting JB weld, were in the 300 degree range, and the only one any higher on the shelf was the old, regular setting stuff. Took longer to get the job done but I don't have to worry about it coming apart because of the heat. Good luck with your project.
 
Google Belzona or Devcon. J-B on steroids! You won"t find in stores. Now about that motor, you got the special part, the rear cover with the reverse shaft it will mount on a 5 hp flat head donor motor without it. You need a good new or used short block. Worm regards
 
A sleeve inside the bore may give better sealing especially with those cracks and offer a more durable repair if integrated with a spacer plate.

You can special order an engine by your model type and serial numbers from a local lawn equipment dealer--not a box store. Also there are a few specialty small engine providers that may be online. The numbers should convert to a current production replacement engine.

and Ultradog, if you're the dictator, why would you want anyone to be able to vote you out ?;) besides, King is my future title !! :)
karl der kaiser
karl f
 
The motor with two shafts- one regular and one backwards (off the camshaft) might not be common but it's not really rare either. B&S and Tecumseh both made them. Try small engine warehouse in Indiana, Northern Equipment has had them in the past or do the Flea-bay thing. IIRC the extra shaft pokes out the side cover so if your repair doesn't hold find a similar engine and Frankenstein a new engine using the new engine with your side cover, cam and lifters.
 

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