OT — Opinions on pier and beam blocks.

Since I can't figure out where the barn is going due to the fact my neighbor can't decide if they want to sell the property I want which will dictate the layout of everything I want to build, I've decided to build a somewhat portable workshop in the mean time to get tools and stuff out of the weather.

I've got a few questions to ask and probably will for a bit here.

First of all, in laying out my first support beams for the workshop, ( I'm putting skids down so if I decide to move it later I can), I was wondering if cinder blocks would be good to use or if I should stack concrete pads until I get my desired height?

I want to make sure our terrier can get under this thing and keep varmits from nesting and burrowing, but I want to make sure cinder blocks will be strong enough to support it.

Shop is going to be 24' x 16' with two lean-tos on either side.

This might not be the structural engineered approved design, but over the years I've seen many, many 'portable' buildings setting on blocks. Two that come to mind right at the moment are my storage building which is 14x16, with a second floor, and a buddies that was built back in the early 90's that was about the size you are wanting. In the case of my buddies building it wasn't unusual for him to have two cars parked inside of it at any given time.

That said the main thing with block is to insure they are turned upright, and not used lying on their side. Structurally they have very little side strengh when it comes to supporting a load and will cruch easily. Too the force of the load needs to be distributed over as much of the surface area of the block as possible for it to have any strength. In other words a single timber running lengthwise over the top of the block will be 'better supported' than one running width wise over it, unless you also use another timber, that covers the entire surface area of the block, between the two pieces.

Like I said I've seen numerous, and helped build a few, outbuildings over the years that were supported on blocks and have yet to see one of them collapse when built properly.

Good luck and post some pics for us when your done.

I built a 16X16. I did not disturb the ground at all. I used 3 6X6 runners and I used 10X10X3 inch thick pads under them 3 feet apart and 2X6 floor joist. I used metal hangers on all the construction and screwed everything on the building. No nails. That was 6 years ago and sofar there has been no level problems.

Personaly i wouldnt use blocks.At lowes ,home depot,etc they have concrete supports made just for this.as i recall they are reinforced concrete,made to support 4x material (maybe 6x?).Concrete blocks tend to settle into the ground unless they are setting on a pad of some type,letting your floor warp and building settle.my opinion of course. you could pour pillars,without much more work or money.

Dave have a neighbor that did just about what you are wanting to do, and I helped him move it last year. His was only 20 ft long by 14 wide but in the begining he dug down about 4 inches or so just got the grass of good and laid one solid or cap block then stacked a regular block as it sits in a wall then used another solid cap block on top. His building runners wer laminated or peiced together two by 8s . Best I remember they used three thick on each side. Lot depends on how you are going to build the building and what you intend to put in it after you get it built. We laid down three telephone poles and winched it right up on my trailer to move it.

Concrete Masonry Units (CMU) are definitely going to settle, just not enough bearing surface, the hollow cell walls will settle into the existing soil. Ideally a footing would be best, but due to the circumstances, and temporary or mobility status of the building you you propose, you may want to go with solid block,or just level the area, place blocks if good soil, or excavate to better soil beneath, place some gravel, compact, then solid blocks up to height, or use skids and do it in wood etc. You may have minor settling or frost heave depending on conditions, but easily mitigated. I would brace and fasten connections, walls, framing in a fashion that will stiffen/strengthen adequately so when its time to move, it holds up without problems.

If you intend to jack the building when moving it, the use of 2 inch solids as a sleeper with 8 inch common on top of each would do well at 3foot spacing all around the perimeter(vertical holes). Be careful as the construction may not meet any codes or insurance rules unless adequately anchored to the soil. If you intend to move it with the blocks, go with soilds all the way. Jim

Dave, As others have said the block will sink into the ground. If you are going to move it later, build you shop on a moble home trailer frame. Use round precast cesspool covers for your piers. 3" round 4" thick with wire. Displacement is everything. oldiron29