I can do better

flying belgian

Well-known Member
With my old 65 New Holland baler I have baled upwards of 1600 bales without a loose one. Sometimes when I do have a loose one it is because the knot slips apart. I want to have longer tails on the knot. Them twine knives are made to bend right? How do you do that and where do you put the bend? Do you have to heat it or do you just put a pipe wrench or Cresant on them and bend them? I know everything inside out about that old baler but have never dealt with the twine knives. Several years back I replaced them but just left them set the way they were from the factory. It does good but I want to do better. Ah the grief of being a perfectionist. Thanks.
 
Probably can be bent with some pressure if you can get a wrench on them. I don"t think it"s a good idea, though. Potential to break...$$$$
 
The wiper arm can be bent to get the right pressure on the billhook to strip the knot off. Where the knife is fastened you cannot bend without affecting the wiper arm function. If you have a bolt on knife you may be able to shim it closer to the twine disk.
 
I am not sure what you are calling what, but generally the twine knives are held on the stripper arm with two small screws. You either sharpen them when they get dull, or replace them. If the stripper arm is not removing the knot from the bill hook, then you position the stripper arm to where you can smack it on the back side with a big hammer to move it closer to the bill hook. Doesn't take much. Should rub just kind of snug across the bottom of the bill hook. The twine disc tension adjusts the length of the tail on the knot. Try getting ten thousand bales out of an old Ford 542 baler without missing a knot.
 
Missing one bale per 1600? I wouldn't bother tinkering, you may end up worse off. My 336 gets about 1000 bales between misses and its the most reliable baler I've ever used.
 
I think you have prefection and could almost bet that anything you did would go the other way. One in 1000 is better than they were built to do new. I like one of the other posters seem to think that the adjustment you would make would be on the the twin disk but again I would not mess with it.
 
An old saying comes to mind and if I where you I would do just this. If it isn't broken do not fix it. In this case it sure isn't broken but by the time you got done trying to adjust it it sure as heck will be broken
 
I think I see what you are talking about now, just came back from the monthly junk sale at the local sale barn and there were three old New Holland balers there. I looked at the knives on the knotters on all three of them. The knives are rivited on the stripper arm instead of being screwed on. You can take the stripper arm off and sharpen the knife if it is dull or if you replace it you will have to cut the rivits off and replace them. The knives have nothing to do with the length of the tail. There is a spring on the side of the Twine Tension Disc that you either tighten or loosen to change the length of the tail. Should be a nut on a stud. Turn it about one eight of a turn at a time and then bale and check the length of the tail. It doesn't take much to change it a lot. Hope this helps you.
 
Bingo, You got it Retired. I am hiking right back out to the shop and look at what you just explained. I will find that adjusting spring. Thank you for following through on my problem.
 
Just got back in. I see the spring and stud you are talking about but it looks like that adjusts the tension on the bill hook. I do not see how that can adjust the length of the tail. I will look at it again in the morning with a fresh mind. There is another adjusting cap screw that holds tension on the twine disk preventing the twine from slipping out of the twine disk for the next bale but that is not my problem. I want longer tails on knot and every time I look at it I come up with the same solution. There is no adjustment for the length of the tails.
 

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