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Single handed connecting lift arms to attachments?

R

Richard (UK)

New User
OK, I'm a newbie!

I have bought a tired DB 885 which I tried to connect up to a 6 ft topper.

After a while lifting/dropping/ reversing/ forwarding I still failed to line up the link arms to the topper!

Is there a trade trick using bits of wood to space out the link arms or using bungee cord to pull them to the attachment?

Trying to do this single handedly without skill is a PAIN!
 
I am assuming that you have a standard 3 point hitch on your tractor with two arms with balls in the end that you are trying to slide over the pins on the implement. My advice is to throttle way back till the tractor is barely running and then very gently ease back to the implement, set the arm height for one side and inch the tractor as slowly as you can. Slow and steady wins the race in this case, in my experience. You may stall the engine a few times but you'll get used to it pretty fast.
Zach
 
Topper, not sure what the UK translation is, but must be a 3 pt mounted implement.

I quick hitch would be ideal for some, but I've never had too much trouble hooking up 3 pt implements without help.

Make sure the lift arms have enough swing or free play beyond the width of the lift pins on the implement, adjust turnbuckles or limit chains and or whatever you may have on your DB. I try and set the height close, a little lower, and tray to center so the lift arms push in and and I can lift onto or align the lift pins. You can target one, put a lynch pin in, then hold one brake and let the tractor turn into the other, close the gap and or hinge over to the opposite pin, now each to their own, usually, with enough play in those arms, you back in straight, and only use the brake if one side is not close enough. I'm sure preferences vary, but I never have help, the one thing I do forget it some implements the pto shaft is best hooked or lined up and close before attaching lift arms, I forget which tractor and implement, but I have done that and not had enough clearance to hook the pto shaft on, unless I hooked into it first, then backed up, and set the arms. Obviously do not back or go to far forward if its locked on the pto shaft, don't want to bend it or something. There have been time where I have connected one lift arm and pushed back on the implement to get it to line up, as well as reaching down, and setting them from the seat, problem is its kinda too far to stretch, foot comes off the clutch, you are stretched out leaning over, you could get tossed off with a running tractor in gear, not really a good idea, to do that unless maybe you had a tool that would reach the lift arm(s) to set them, and if its that bad, best to have that 2nd person around, or that quick hitch if you can use one of the many being offered out there today.
 
I give up. What is a topper???? To us Americans a topper is what goes on the back of your pickup.

As for hooking up to the lift ams. I always just line up as close as I can and then hook the pin that is the farthest away from the tractor. Then you can pull ahead just a little and the other side will hook up.
 
I think a Topper is what we call a bush hog or brush cutter.
If you could find a set of telescoping lift arms for your tractor it will make hooking up implements a breeze.
 

I had a DB 885 years ago and if I remember correctly the 3pt stays are an arrangement where one half screws into another to adjust to desired length, which is not easily done. I think what I did was get close, then unhook the end of the stay that attached to the lift arm and let it drop to the ground, then move tractor a little more if necessary, to get it lined up, hook that side, then unhook the other stay and bring that arm to the implement lift pin. Then after hooking the top link I would pull to good level ground, and adjust and reattach the stays. Not very convenient.
 
I believe a topper is the British name for a rotary finish mower. The thing that goes on a pickup truck is called a topper in some parts of the US, but it's dependent on where you are. Other parts of the country call it a canopy, capper, cap, cap topper, shell and probably a dozen other names.
 
Use a bungee cord to tie the lift arms together, back up to the implement and get the holes lined up with the pins and let the arms down on top of the pins and then pull arms to side and onto the pins. Trick is to not let the arms down too much, maybe 1/2 inch down on the lever after they set on the pin.
 
I had to teach myself also, my way is a bit different. I have a basic old ford and a six foot long pry bar. I just back into the implement close to the right location on one try, lower the lift arms a couple of inches below the pins and set the brakes. Then with the bar I simply pry one side of the implement to where I can hook the ball over the pin and install the clip, then do the other side the same way, then the top link and pto shaft, if the implement has one. Takes about two minutes, no struggle, real easy. My tractor has a loader so I attached a two inch dia. pipe on a vertical support and carry the bar in it, never leave the garage without it. I set the arms below the pins because I find it easier to lift them to the pins. I also have the "topper" sitting on blocks so it is easy to fit the bar under the ends or sides as needed to move it where I want it. I"m old, skinny and weak so I find the easy way to do things when possible.
 
All my tractors with 3pt. hitches have the quick hitch attatchment to aid in hooking up 3pt. equip. Handier than pockets on a shirt! Would not be without them. Some implements may require a slight adjustment to fit the quickhitch but that is a one-time and it works every time after that. I also have quickhitches (a different style than the 3pt. quickhitch) for my loader tractors and would not be without them either. Armand
 
practice...practice....practice....patience....patience.....patience....

Did I mention practice and patience?????
Is a topper a mower like a drum mower (that swings out) or a brush hog that just hangs off the back?? What else will you be using regularly?? and will you be hooking/unhooking enough to justify a modification of a couple hundred bucks (quid as some of you folks call it)?
 
I should have also said that I keep all of my 3 point equipment on blocks so that I can move it around the same way including the plow. I just have four stray dogs here with me and they are no help. ;-) I also attach the stay arms when I hook the lift arms, don"t know what they are called on your side of the pond, but they run parallel the the lift arms and keep the implement from swaying.
 
The lift arms always seem to want to come together, so the difficulty is keeping them apart far enough so you can line them up with the implement mounting pins.

I cut a piece of 1x6, and cut out notches on both ends, so they keep the lift arms apart. I cut the board to a length that fits just ahead of the lifting point on the 3 point arms.

Put the "spreader board" in, back up slowly and align on the side where the implement sits the highest (so when you get that side lined up, the other arm is below the implement pin). Put that side on, then back or forward the tractor so the other side aligns- but the 3 point arm will be below the implement pin. Get off the tractor, lift the 3 point arm and slide it on. Then do the top link.
 
Like Dave said, practice and patience. The practice part comes with time. Patience, well, maybe not. Jim
 
Having read the postings attached to your question I don"t think any one has mentioned that the correct sequence for connecting the lift arms is lower left lift arm first normally fixed length, next is the lower right lift arm using the leveling lever to adjust the height of the link arm. Last comes the top link this can be made to fit either by adjustment or by lifting the lower link arms carefully using the hydraulics. if you have check chains fitted to the outside of the lower lift arms these can sometimes be adjusted to keep the arms where you need them. Practice does help but do be careful.
 
When I'm unhooking from an implement (cutter, box blade, grader blade, scoop, etc.)I drop them on a parallel pair of landscape timbers so they'll be easy to nudge around when time comes to re-attach.
 
The bigger 3ph equipment is just flat a PITA.
I set my equipment on level ground. Some of it is too heavy to horse around. I back up close and leave the tractor in neutral so I can grab the tire lug to move the tractor. I tried a quick hitch, but didn't have the time and money to have my equipment modified to fit.

I have gone to 50's era Farmall's with fast hitch implements. Much easier and cheaper than new.

I'm down to 1 3ph tractor. It has a loader and box blade on it. I don't ever take it off.
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:37 06/03/12) Having read the postings attached to your question I don"t think any one has mentioned that the correct sequence for connecting the lift arms is lower left lift arm first normally fixed length, next is the lower right lift arm using the leveling lever to adjust the height of the link arm. Last comes the top link this can be made to fit either by adjustment or by lifting the lower link arms carefully using the hydraulics. if you have check chains fitted to the outside of the lower lift arms these can sometimes be adjusted to keep the arms where you need them. Practice does help but do be careful.
Click to expand...

Here we have the right procedure.
 
(quoted from post at 13:09:37 06/03/12) Having read the postings attached to your question I don"t think any one has mentioned that the correct sequence for connecting the lift arms is lower left lift arm first normally fixed length, next is the lower right lift arm using the leveling lever to adjust the height of the link arm. Last comes the top link this can be made to fit either by adjustment or by lifting the lower link arms carefully using the hydraulics. if you have check chains fitted to the outside of the lower lift arms these can sometimes be adjusted to keep the arms where you need them. Practice does help but do be careful.
Click to expand...

There is a recent post on the Ford forum entitled "Jubilee". It is a very informative movie made by Ford when the Jubilee came out, telling all it's features and benefits and how to use it productively. It gives instructions on how to quickly and easily hook up to a three point implement that are directly opposite how you advise doing it. Where does your information come from?
 
Yeah, you use a pry bar. But if you only have one arm you are somewhat handicapped. You will just have to be more creative. you can push with your legs too.
 
I agree with practice practice, got to where I back the ford 4000 close as I can with the arms above the pins then drop as needed, sometimes takes a little kick to get the arms on but it always works. Thing now is the pto shafts seem to be getting heavier every year as I hold them up to line them to the tractor pto
 
The link that dave2 put up is how most people round here do it. Not perfect but you back up and may need to adjust top link but other than that you hitch and go. Course if you are Cat II your implements will need bushings also to work right.

Not sure about your David Brown but some tractors you can extend the lower links to get them on the implement then horse the implement around with the tractor to get the top hooked.

hth

jt
 
Crank down the right arm, then lower both arms. Back up so lift arms are under the pins, then lift the left arm by hand and slide it on the pin. Right arm won"t hit its pin because it"s been cranked down. Then pull right arm out by hand while you crank it up till it lines up with the pin. You may have to move the tractor forward or back a little to get the right arm on. Then attach top link by either adjusting or lifting the implement slightly.
 
By the way, when you back up to an implement, don't look at the pins. Line up the center of the tractor with the center of the implement. No real fan of 3 pt. hitch, miss the old Farmall fast hitch, you could hook up without getting out of the seat.
 
(quoted from post at 22:06:52 06/03/12) Saw this neat little set up looks like it would work on all tractors
quick hookup too
Click to expand...
I almost bought a set of them but got the weld on ones that you have to use the balls on the pins with..... Hindsight sucks....
Woulda been much cheaper and simpler to go with these ones....
 
I had a friend operate the three point levers in the cab of my 95 when I watched from the back. I then fabbed up some levers so i could raise and lower the arms from the back. Did the same for the hydraulics so I could operate implements and connect or disconnect. Saves a ton of running up and down.
Way good for the post hole attachment.
 
I posted a "Thank You" yesterday - but I can"t see it ...

So here it is again: many thanks for all your help!

UPDATE: I was putting your tips into practice today ... when a passing farmer saw my efforts, ran into my field and linked up the topper (rotary grass cutter) and my tractor in 5 seconds using his boots to align everything! He then topped (mowed) about 4 acres of my land!

Helpful - but annoying too ....
 
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