Tire loading question...

I'm going to need new tires soon... the rubber on my MF35 is so old that I think light is starting to leak through...

Anyway, I was wondering how do I reload the tires? Or is that a job that should be left to the professionals? Is there an inexpensive tool/device that can be purchased?

Lots of tricks to loading, I will let someone else give them, but use something besides the rust product. Not too much difference in the weight. Bob

It is not really "Rocket Science" to load your tires...
You need to mix the water and Calcium in a Barrel..
Install the correct Tube..with the 2-piece Stem, meant for using liquid loading fluids..
You could get a small device to use on your air-line, but I would not ...
I just have the wheel raised enough to be able to rotate the tire, so the stem can be rolled to the top..
I use a small pump (a drill-powered pump will do).
Slip a piece of tubing from the pump, over the tire (Tube) Stem (Core Removed)..
Make sure the pump is primed and pump in as much as will go (pressure will build up in the tube)..
You will need to stop the pump and remove the hose from the valve stem, to allow the pressure to exit the tube, then repeat as many times as it takes to load it as full as you like..
I prefer to load to the top of the wheel Rim, so it does not slop around in the wheel...noticeable when you stop quickly on the Road...
This is not a bad job and goes fairly quick..
Be sure to mix the solution strong enough to prevent freezing..and that means the liquid is also Heavier too..
Be Sure to rinse everything well and flush your pump when you are done..!!
You can pretty-much reverse the process, to capture the liquid, when removing it..you won't get the last 5 gallons out, but at least you can save it..!!
Ron..

I would reccomend Rim Guard, it is heaver than anti freeze and doesn't rust your rim. I get mine bulk and put it in myself.

Well... What I have on hand is about 6 gallons of various brands of anti-freeze...
And I don't have to worry about my rims, I've got tubes in all my tires... But since I'm going to put all new rubber on all four corners, I wanted to re-load the tires...
Most of my land is fairly flat, but I do bush hog in the ditch on both sides of my driveway and I want the added stability of some weight that is low to the ground...

Mostly I was looking for the actual technique for loading the tires... wondering if there was something that you could screw into the valve stem that would allow air out while pumping fluid in... Can't imagine it would be too costly...

Send me an e-mail and I will in turn send you a page out of a manual I have that show 3 or 4 ways to fill your tires back up. One way once set up you can walk away from it and then come back an hour or 2 later and it will have done it on its own. My E-Mail is always open

Loader on the tractor? Tow heavy draft loads? How cold do
the winters get? Any access to cast iron weights?

(quoted from post at 10:56:08 05/21/12) Send me an e-mail and I will in turn send you a page out of a manual I have that show 3 or 4 ways to fill your tires back up. One way once set up you can walk away from it and then come back an hour or 2 later and it will have done it on its own. My E-Mail is always open

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I don't have any idea how to find your e-mail address on this forum... On my profile, I've selected 'Yes' to 'Always show my e-mail', so maybe you could send me an e-mail? Please, and thank you.

(quoted from post at 10:56:49 05/21/12) Loader on the tractor? Tow heavy draft loads? How cold do
the winters get? Any access to cast iron weights?

Click to expand...

Nope, just a plain tractor... used mainly for mowing and occasional box blade... Does not get very cold, although we do get about 10-15 days/year below zero (but not usually in-a-row and only barely below zero)... Cast Iron weights would be better, but I have no idea about where to get them or how much they will cost...

Would 't hurt to try it first with the tires dry.

(quoted from post at 13:43:49 05/21/12) Would 't hurt to try it first with the tires dry.

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I think it is the cost that would hurt the worst... I like the idea of wheel weights... The problem is, someone would have to give them to me...
I don't think I'll be getting much more money out of SWMBO for this tractor...

The tires are already loaded, right?

I know these guys are all about beet juice and Rim Guard, or just using cast weights, but you've already got the fluid.

If you don't put it back then you've got to deal with disposing of it. You can't just dump that stuff anymore. Well, you can, but you'll probably get caught because it burns off the vegetation for a while.

Getting the fluid out is easy. All you need is an inexpensive adapter from Tractor Supply, some clean barrels, and a short garden hose.

Putting the fluid back is the difficult part. You need some sort of pump.

Chip, buy your tires from a local farm tire shop, trailer your tractor to them, let them install the new tires and they will be glad to pump out the fluid and refill them. Please put new tubes in your new tires. Leave the tractor there for 24 hours, if they foul up and pinch a tube, they will have to tear the tire apart and fix it, not you. If you use your tractor every day, look at Firestone Tires they are worth extra money.

You have two inexpensive choices for adapters to use to fill the tires yourself. The top one is about $15 from Gemplers The bottom one is about $9 from Gemplers. If you decide to do the job yourself, get the $15 kind because the air will continuously vent out that little hole while the liquid goes in. It really cuts down on the fill time and you can fill without a pump with gravity. For garden tractor tires you have to use the $9 one because the other is to big.


Gemplers

Here is a link to some photos of how I put the calcium back in my
tire after putting in a new tube.
Zach
Gravity..

This is what I was looking for... Thanks, Dave