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Two drawbar topics in one ?.

L

LorenC

Member
Part one is the bar on the Mf65 is lower than I'd like, and the gate it's meant to swing in has been repaired with 1/2" vertical clearance. I'd like to weld in maybe a 3" wide flat bar underneath it to get that height. Any reason mild steel won't do that job well?
Second part is putting a bar from the straight, upper, front section of the drawbar, to straight out above the drop section. Thinking welding it around the forward section with a wrap around the vertical area of the drop so as to not weld or drill to/on the drawbar itself. I assume that drawbar is heat treated, right?
What do you guys think?
 
Have you checked at your local TSC or equivelant store for a drop down drawbar. I bought on @ TSC (tractor supply) for one of my tractors. That's usually lots better than welding. And if yours has a drop down or bend in it now, you can turn it over by crawling under the tractor, pulling a pin that goes thru the drawbar and flipping it over.
Keith
 
Part of the reason I want to add a top to the drop is one of the balers I"ll be using has a bar for a hitch. Making the drawbar into a clevis style will allow me to run that.
Also, per my post, I asked about this specifically stating a method to avoid welding on the drawbar. I guess my description is lacking again.
 
You want to stuff a 1/2 inch by 3 inch mild steel plate under the drawbar to lift it a bit and take out the vertical slop. Should work, as the original bottom will still be there for support.

You want to make a clevis hitch setup. I don't quite understand what you will be welding to if not the drawbar, this would be a swinging drawbar I'd guess, so you'd need to weld to the drawbar in my head - and as you suggest that would soften the drawbar and not good.

So - sorry, I'm not grasping what you would be welding to.

Many drawbars have 2 small holes in them ahead of the main drawbar hole, and you bolt a strap onto the drawbar through those 2 holes. I'll guess you don't have the extra holes?

--->Paul
 
Right, I don't have those holes to bolt the strap to.
What I'm wanting to weld up is; put a 3 walled tube down over the drawbar to replace that strap, place a plate across the bottom and weld the plate to the 3 walled tube, trapping the drawbar. Weld another 3 walled tube down from just ahead of the drop portion and weld another plate across the back(towards the front of the tractor) and trap it also, making the addition locked in place around the drawbar. Should be easy and pretty effective without altering the drawbar.
 
(quoted from post at 22:52:53 04/28/12) Part of the reason I want to add a top to the drop is one of the balers I"ll be using has a bar for a hitch. Making the drawbar into a clevis style will allow me to run that.
Also, per my post, I asked about this specifically stating a method to avoid welding on the drawbar. I guess my description is lacking again.
Click to expand...

If you call it a hammer strap then many will know what you have in mind.
 
I have JD 4010 & 4020. They have a drop down or up, drawbar, that doesn't seem to line up correctly with mowers or balers. So, why are they offset to begin with? I have JD balers, so I have always wondered.
 
Google says that is basically what I'm after. But my drawbar has the drop, I'm trying to get a straight hammer strap to go with it if you will. There aren't any holes to bolt anything to the drawbar, and I don't want to drill any and that would create stress risers there. I'm going to try a NH1030 this year with the 65, and it's got a hell of a tongue weight it seems.
 
Ok - you want to weld a sleeve around the drawbar on the straight portion of the drawbar, with a plate extending out from it to make the top of the clevis. This would be held on just by sitting there, can't move to the rear because of the bend in the drawbar.

Will it work to slip on & off if you remove the drawbar, slip it off the end? Then can be removed if in the way.

Am I understanding?

--->Paul
 
Good point about wanting to remove it. Hmmm. Maybe have the plate that traps it bolt on instead.
Might just do a 3/4" x 3 to 4" flat bar on the top with the same welded down the front of the drop also, with just bolts and another plate below to trap it. Easier than forming around the drawbar.
 
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