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need some weight (ballast)... ???'s

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Got a whole bunch of suggestions for weight on my little tractor. It's gone and I have the next bigger. Still need weight because of the FEL, and a couple of the regular places I need to move bales and tanks is uneven. Almost turned the tractor over with a round bail on the FEL the other day. Since then, I've been using the 3pt fork and hanging a bale on back for a counterweight but it's a little awkward. Filling my tires will give me about 900 pounds on the rear and 200 on the front.

now the ??'s....
1) is the extra weight on the front necessary
2) will filling the rear tires, serve the same purpose (or better) as hanging the 800 pounds on the 3ph?
3) Will it do any damage (can't see where it would) and would it serve any purpose, to add wheel weights to the already filled tires??

I work in small places and have a couple sloping places that I'll be haying.

Thanks, Dave
 

With a FEL, there really is no need for any EXTRA front weights, not even fluid. To add stability and traction, you need the weight on the REAR. Fluid in those rear tires is a good way to start, but don't hesitate to add cast iron wheel weights either. Won't hurt a thing.
 
Will the filled tires wear out any quicker than not filled ones??? Also, someone on a forum here said filled tires are harder on the ground which is different from what I get on here...
 
dave. i run 5 lb/gallon mix of calcuim chloride in my working tractors. the loader tractors also have cast iron weights too. the added weight will cause some soil compaction, but its a heck of a lot better than rolling a tractor over. my opinion, the tractor handles a lot smoother ballasted. another problem without a lot of ballast, the hydraulics on most loaders have far more power to lift a load than the counter weights on the back of the tractor, and nothing is scarier than having one of the rear tires come 2 feet of the ground when doing loader work. ballast the living snot out of your loader tractor. i prefer the weight on the tractor, not on the 3 point. wide front tractors will flip just as easy as a widowmaker front end if you try and lift too much,too high,too fast, and on too soft ground.
 
You can get by with less weight by hanging it BEHIND the rear axle because it's acting as a counterweight.

All you need is an old barrel, some concrete, and scrap iron to fashion a 3pt hitch from.

Hang it on the 3pt when you need it, drop it by the barn when you don't.
 
I prefer both in the tire and wheel weights. I had anyware from one set to 4 sets of weights on rear with fluid. One tire is close to 30 years old, other went when rim busted at 66 years old.
 
I use the antifreeze and water solution at about 50 gallons per
tire for 16.9x28 on the current downsized big tractor (65 hp). I
don't use the CC as I don't like to deal with the rust. I don't run
that much AF either to keep costs down and seems to work ok.

Like to 50 gallons of water about 10 gallons of AF. Winters aren't
that cold and the tire guy who installed it (local sell any tire for
any application including earth movers) said that if it gets to
slush it won't hurt the tubeless tire.

The thing I like about it is that it fills the lower half of the tire
which is the best thing you can do to lower your CG and help to
prevent rollovers. But if you stop in a hurry, expect the tractor
to rock back and forth for a couple of minutes.

I had 3 large rear weights per side (guessing 150# per wt.) on a
JD 100 hp drawbar tractor with cab. I took them off because
they kept popping (breaking) the clamps where the hub attaches
to the outer rim. The weight of the cab was sufficient to prevent
slippage (much) when plowing.

Mark
 
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