Best way to use roll-over plow

I am getting ready to use the case 4-18 roll-over plow I bought last fall, and I thought I would ask what everybodys preferred pattern in the field is. I am somewhat familiar with how to use a conventional plow, and I know that with a rollover you can work from one side of the field straight across, eliminating a dead furrow in the middle of the field. My biggest question is the best way to close the headlands cleanly. Tips?
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:05 04/22/12) I am getting ready to use the case 4-18 roll-over plow I bought last fall, and I thought I would ask what everybodys preferred pattern in the field is. I am somewhat familiar with how to use a conventional plow, and I know that with a rollover you can work from one side of the field straight across, eliminating a dead furrow in the middle of the field. My biggest question is the best way to close the headlands cleanly. Tips?
Just plow the field throwing the dirt uphill (if you have a grade). When you are done, plow the ends so the dead furrow is at the fenceline or edge of the field....that way when you disc it down the dead furrows get filled and you aren't pushing soil into the fenceline.
 
If you keep rolling the headlands "in" every year, eventually you will end up with a huge ditch along the edge of the field.

You need to alternate which way you plow the headlands each year IMHO. Even if it means leaving a dead furrow 20' in from the edge of the field.

Really, filling in that dead furrow isn't all that bad because you make a pass along it the first time, which pretty well fills it in, then you're crossing over it as you fit the middle of the field. It all but disappears.
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:24 04/26/12) If you keep rolling the headlands "in" every year, eventually you will end up with a huge ditch along the edge of the field.

You need to alternate which way you plow the headlands each year IMHO. Even if it means leaving a dead furrow 20' in from the edge of the field.

Really, filling in that dead furrow isn't all that bad because you make a pass along it the first time, which pretty well fills it in, then you're crossing over it as you fit the middle of the field. It all but disappears.
You just start on the opposite side of the field the next time with a ROLLOVER plow.....there is never a dead furrow in the middle of the field. That is the whole purpose of the ROLLOVER plow.
 
Here is a picture of a ROLLOVER plow
11-14-11001.jpg
 
You just start on the opposite side of the field the next time with a ROLLOVER plow.....there is never a dead furrow in the middle of the field. That is the whole purpose of the ROLLOVER plow.

Talking about HEADLANDS here.

There is no "opposite side" to start from on the headlands.

If you keep rolling the dirt "in" and leaving the END dead-furrow on the outside edge of the field, the dead furrow will just keep getting bigger and deeper each year until there's a ditch.
 
That makes good sense to alternate working in or out each time the field is plowed. There are several fields that I am going to use the roll-over in to try and create a ditch on the wet side. Our ground settles and moves a lot up here in Alaska, so the oldtimers would keep drainage open every time they plowed, and these fields have been fallow for 15 years so the ditches are all out of grade, lots of wet spots.
 
Exactly what I was going to say. You get to the end of the row, lift the plow, do a 3 point turn or a tight loop, flip the plow, and drop the other set of wheels in the furrow. If you aren't so tight on space, just let the harrows overlap the 'headland' a few inches, it won't be a problem. If you have a 4 bottom plow, you should have plenty of space on all sides to play with harrows too.
 
I have been no tilling for 30 some years, and have a moldboard plow that has been sitting for the past twenty. Best way I can think of to use it is as a boat anchor---
 
If you no-tilled for 20 years on our ground, a D-8 is the best way te regrade the field. Plowing and discing help knock the high spots down and fill in the lows. Our ground moves quite a bit, and if water sits in the same spot every year it will start melting the frozen ground below and start sinking FAST! Several ponds in our fields are ringed by several 2`+ cracks where they keep sinking.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top