What about this old cutter?

donb2

New User
Use it - fix it - junk it?

Fella I got the tractor from said he recently cut his field with it.

If I use it, what should I check/service before hand?

Do I need the tail wheel if the field is fairly level?
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I"d try it out whatta ya got to lose

Definitely put the tail wheel out so its not dropping into the ground when you hit a low spot with the tractor.
 
I say use it till it dies, why not?

Just grease everywhere there's a fitting and sharpen the blade - personally I'd tack a patch over that split, but might not be necessary.

... can't quite figure out what that ratchet strap is doing there though... It's not a "structural piece" is it?
 
It all depends on the condition of the gear box whether it's worth monkeying with or not.
First thing I would do is open the test plug and see if there is any oil in it.
If there is oil in it then I would spin it up with the tractor and see what it sounds like.
If no oil I would add to full and then spin it up. See where it's leaking from. And then cut a little with it. A couple of seals wouldn't cost much. Or fill it full of corn head grease as that doesn't leak out so bad.
The crack in the deck and fixing the tail would be easy tasks as it doesn't have to look pretty to work.
I can't quite tell how wide that one is but even a low end 5' King Kutter would probably cost most of $800 these days and probably wouldn't cut one whit better than that one.
 
agree on the wheel - if the ground's truly flat you don't need it - but it doesn't take much of a bump/hill/hole to lower that deck more than you'd want.

And again - why not? Looks like it'd work ok, no?
 
Check the gearbox and clutch, if they're useable use it. Seriously though get a guard for that pto shaft. Patch some holes, fix the tail wheel, and use it. A new ones gonna be the better part of a thousand and it will hurt much more to put a hole in a new one. My two cents
 
I have 2 woods mowing decks but only 1 rear wheel, so I swap them back & forth. Rear wheel helps it to cut even with the ground and not scalp.
 
Hey, Thanks to everyone for your input!

The strap is holding the tail wheel and bracket to the frame while it was being hauled here. I will have to bolt it on now.

I will check the gearbox for oil and grease what I can, then engage it and see what happens!

I will be sure nobody gets near the PTO and will try to fashion a guard of some sort.

Thanks Again for the help!!
 
(quoted from post at 20:03:14 04/25/12) I say use it till it dies, why not?

Just grease everywhere there's a fitting and sharpen the blade - personally I'd tack a patch over that split, but might not be necessary.

... can't quite figure out what that ratchet strap is doing there though... It's not a "structural piece" is it?

Looks like it's just holding the tail wheel on there.
 

Get after it with a WELDER AND Paint and it may last another 20 years...

Looks like it sure could use some TLC..
Looks like it is cobbled at the front, left side and what is with the Ratchet-Strap..???
Get that slip-clutch to break loose before you use it much..
If the Gearbox leaks, get some "Corn Header grease and fill it up..

Ron..
 
I agree with every one below. Weld it up & Run it. Replace the top link on your 3 point with a short link chain with a clevis on the ends. This will save you much drama and MISFORTUNE. The tail wheel levels the mower, and when you drive up a ridge or dead furrow, the chain allows the mower to tilt up. If a solid link is used. the mower cannot lift and something will break. The chain should be long enough to allow the mower to follow the ground, but lift well when transporting it. Run the mower with the front about 1/2 inch lower than the rear (blade measured to ground front and rear) this avoids cutting every stalk 50 times each pass. Jim
 
That gearbox is probably the same as a belt pulley for the "N" series Ford tractors. They had the pulley on the rear.

I ran onto that on a short line mower, once.
 
You did notice that the blade assembly/gear box was leaning to one side with one side of the blade being a lot closer to the housing than the other didn't you? My question is why? Is the metal frame of the cutter bent. or is rusting out and about to fly apart.
 

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