Nasty valve seat

641Dave

Member
I guess this is old gasoline. I'm not sure, but this what I found when I pulled my intake valve on my #2 cylinder.

yuk.jpg


Another one once I cleaned it up a bit.

clean.jpg


I gave it a good cleaning but I have noticed that the valves cleaned up good, but there is some pitting on the valve seats.

I pulled all the valves and cleaned them up. This is all I plan on doing at the moment but if I ever go back to do a rebuild, I suppose it will be time then to address this problem of the pitted valve seats.


I'm going to adjust the valve/tappets tonight. I got me a tappet feeler and setting them cold at .015. I read in the manual about which valves have to be open to adjust which valves that are closed.

Any advice or tips?
 
I found one worse than that on 2N ford recently. I knew my friend would not use it much as he was not in good health. It was of course a flat head and I could not take it to the shop for grinding.
I cut a small groove in it with my Dremel tool and used valve grinding compound on it with an electric drill and a cut off screwdriver. I know you are supposed to use a back and forth motion lapping a valve, but this worked very well. Did not take long to clean it up. Adjusted valve and she ran great for him.
Richard
 
You had better get rid of those pits on the valve seats if you are planning on running the engine. That seat on the right will only get worse. You might be able to get rid of them by using some valve lapping compound if they are not too deep. I sure wouldn't run it like that.
 
Alright then, here we go with something else I know nothing about.

Is there a way I can grind the valve seats myself or is this something I should take to the shop?


Let me google valve lapping now... :oops:
 
you can do a clean up cut with valve grinding compound and a electric drill...use the coarse for initial cut...apply the compound to mating surfaces of valve and seat and insert valve into guide...make dang sure you dont get any on valve stem or guide...cheap spray carb cleaner works good for clean up...chuck valve stem up in drill and spin it using a push/pull motion...it aint a drag race seal but it'll get ya by till you can do a rebuild.
here's a handy site for old Ford specs...all the 134 cid engine specs are the same.
specs
 

Those valve seats are too far gone to save. Take the head to a machine shop and have those old seats cut out, and new seats installed. Do it right the first time and you'll be done. Do a "band-aide" repair and you'll never be happy with how it runs.
 
i hope you kept valves in order...you cant mix n match without recutting valves and seats.
 
I just saw a few tools where folks where grinding/cutting their angles on aluminum heads.

I was wondering if there were some tools for working on cast iron heads.

Can I grind these valves from under the shade tree? ...with professional results?
 
(quoted from post at 08:18:59 04/16/12) I just saw a few tools where folks where grinding/cutting their angles on aluminum heads.

I was wondering if there were some tools for working on cast iron heads.

Can I grind these valves from under the shade tree? ...with professional results?

With professional results? NO
 
I have to ask why you are trying not to spend a few bucks
and install new seats, new guides and machine/replace a
valve(s) ??? How rusty and worn is the cam and
followers?
 
(quoted from post at 17:26:37 04/16/12) I have to ask why you are trying not to spend a few bucks
and install new seats, new guides and machine/replace a
valve(s) ??? How rusty and worn is the cam and
followers?

Everything else looks clean, just the pitting on some of the exhaust valve seats and the junk here on the intake.


How much should I expect to pay for a complete valve job on this thing? Magnaflux, have the seats ground, valve seals, etc...?
 
Can't tell from pictures if you can resurface that
seat or not. Just no way of telling without putting
a stone or cutter to it. Some times they look
terrible but if pitting is shallow they clean right
up. And it will have to be hit with all three angles
to get a good seat if it does clean up. Otherwise,
you will have to put in a new valve seat insert.
Lapping with compound will not do the job on that
one even for piddly running it around.
 

That Pitted Seat is WAY too bad for any amount of "Lapping" to help..

Should be only a couple Bucks/Valve for a standard re-surfacing of the Seats and Valves..
Not likely that you will need the Guides worked on..
You WILL feel the difference in power..!!
Then, if you do rebuild it later..the Head is already Done..

Ron.
 
I just loaded it into the truck and taking it to Blaine's Motor Works tomorrow.

I appreciate you guys taking the time to advise me about these valve seats and everything else. I'm learning things I've always wanted to know since a young-un but never got my hands on until now. Thanks fellas!
 
(quoted from post at 18:51:08 04/16/12) I just loaded it into the truck and taking it to Blaine's Motor Works tomorrow.

I appreciate you guys taking the time to advise me about these valve seats and everything else. I'm learning things I've always wanted to know since a young-un but never got my hands on until now. Thanks fellas!

Good for you. I've been turnin' wrenches for quite a few years now. Even took a course in auto mechanics at the local college, and I've learned that very seldom is any kind of head and valve work a "do-it-yourself" project. I've even got an older valve grinding machine, as well as the seat grinding equipment, but most of the heads removed from these 60 to 70 year old tractors need WAY more than what I am equipped to do, so I just load those heads in the truck and take 'em to town.
 

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