Penetrating oil

JRSutton · Apr 13, 2012

As I struggle trying to get a stripped oxygen sensor out of my jeep - my mind shifted focus to pentrating oils - and if there are any that work better than pb blaster which is what I've always used.

I started reading a lot of high praise for Kroil.

But then I came across these supposedly unbiased test results:

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

Obviously the 50/50 atf-acetone is at least worth trying since it's "free" (I already have it)

But I was wondering what others from this site use, and if you feel those results are accurate.

Mike Aylward · Apr 13, 2012

JR, I have seen these "tests" before, too. The one thing that I have never noticed in any of these tests is the factor of time. If you have so many hours to soak something then it's likely about any of them will work ok. But what if you don't have the time? I would think speed of action should factor into the results some way. I used to use Kroil a lot and it is a good product. I tried the acetone/ATF mix and wasn't all that impressed with it. I've been using Deere's penetrating oil (started using it because it was easier to get than Kroil) and it actually works very well. Mike

glennster · Apr 13, 2012

i have been using pb blaster. i buy it in the gallon jugs and use the pump type sprayer. just hose down whatever you are working on a couple times. grab a big impact and if it doesnt come loose, the impact snaps it off. runs about 20 dollars a gallon for the pb.

dpendzic · Apr 13, 2012

I use PB blaster, Kroil and ATF/Acetone--for quick results I use PB, when I have a few days time for it to soak use kroil, and use ATF/acetone if I have a week or two and/or a lot of bolts to get loose

Motorcraftman · Apr 13, 2012

I have had Great results with a Spray product right next to the WD40 at Wmart.(Dark Blue can) Can't recall the name at the moment, But it seems to loosen badly rusted bolts Fast! and alot cheaper than the 40. KF4LKU Larry

JRSutton · Apr 13, 2012

Yeah - time is definitely important. I'm not known for my patience.

I have no complaints with PB blaster - it's just that it's not making a difference THIS time. Always has worked well enough in the past.

This thing is stuck hard. Lots of heating/cooling/soaking - impact driver doesn't move it - no room for a breaker bar...

I foolishly didn't use a 6 point socket when I tried the hammer on the socket wrench thing, it's getting rounder and rounder...

Can't fit a drill in there...

I'm losing the battle.

I didn't really expect to find a magic penetrating oil, but my search did make me curious about what others used.

Billy NY · Apr 13, 2012

Here is one not on the list, Free-All, which I think may be on the same level as Kroil, you never see these advertised or for sale with large franchises, just specialty shops, suppliers and so on. It does work pretty good, and you can see where it penetrates on most things its applied to, I've had the experience of not having to use a torch on things I've soaked, a can was $9 the last time I bought it, though many times I did not use much. I do need to try acetone and atf seems like an inexpensive but worthy alternative. WD40 and PB blaster, is kind of marginal, WD-40 is really not a penetrating oil, water displacer right ? Liquid wrench, free-all and Kroil all have that volatile organic compound aroma, they smell like they would work wonders LOL !
Free All

Free All Description

Fern(Mi) · Apr 13, 2012

I like Liquid Wrench. And I use a lot of 50/50 Acetone-ATF. So it separates. I shake it in a pump bottle spray it on and let it work. If it separates so be it. My philosophy, the acetone soaks in first the ATF following it in.
If I've a stuck king pin, I spray 50/50, then diesel fuel on it followed with a grease gun's pressure a few days later.
Fernan

rustyfarmall · Apr 13, 2012

If time is important, grab the oxy/acetylene torch and get 'er hot.

641Dave · Apr 13, 2012

I guess I'm the only one putting marvels mystery oil in a spray bottle.

My biggest gripe is finding a spray bottle worth a dang! :x

JRSutton · Apr 13, 2012

Tried that - both getting the sensor glowing - the pipe glowing - both glowing - can't get the thing to move.

Problem is, I should have done that FIRST - instead I did everything wrong - started with an open ended wrench - rounded it a bit - cut the wires and used the box end, hitting it with a heavy hammer and pushing with my foot - rounded it a LOT more.

Cracked the sensor body off and tried a socket - rounded it even further.

FINALLY tried a 6 point socket on an impact driver - but still nothing.

So now I have a nice rounded mess.

Should have just gone with the heat and the 6 point right from the start.

I know better - I was just being stupid and now I'm paying for it.

Going to let it soak some more - and keep my fingers crossed.

I've got the acetone/atf on there now - we'll see if it does have magical properties.

MeAnthony · Apr 13, 2012

Can you get a small pipe wrench on it? Then a small piece of pipe over the handle, and possibly angle the pipe a bit in relation to the pipe wrench?

old · Apr 13, 2012

I use straight ATF all the time to free up parts and engines etc. I have a pumper oil can in my shop that I keep full of it and it works well and cost is also low. Ya I also use PB at times due to the fact it comes in a can that is under pressure so I can get it in places I can not get the ATF

IaGary · Apr 13, 2012

Did you try heating it red hot then cooling it quick with water?

The quick temp change will bust most things loose.

Gary

MarkB_MI · Apr 13, 2012

This "test" gets circulated here every few months. From what I know about it, the comparison was neither scientific nor objective. There are several things we expect penetrating oil to do, and the comparison just evaluated one thing. No doubt straight motor oil, lithium grease and Preparation H would have all fared well on this test, but they didn't test those alternatives. The author of the article only wanted to prove how wonderful his pet mixture of acetone and ATF is.

Brad_bb · Apr 13, 2012

I don't have any data, but I really like this product:
http://www.bluecreeper.com/
The best is the small bottle with needle applicator. I allows you to put it only where you need it and not get it all over the place. Less waste and more product. This product was invented by a regular member of forestryforum.com, but only we forestry forum people knew how good it works(then called RustReaper). He recently sold it to the Logrite company who is now starting to market it(As BlueCreeper cause that is their company color). I have bought small bottles for family and friends. I know of lots of testimonials on rusted parts. I never liked Silicone based products like WD-40. This product also smells like mint.

JRSutton · Apr 13, 2012

About six times so far...

I've never had so much trouble with a stuck anything.

I'm getting close to the point of pulling the whole pipe out... though I REALLY don't want to do that - especially since that requires removing two bolts that are further up and even harder to get too ... and a whole lot rustier... Though i think I could at least snap those.

Exhaust work is never fun - but even less so when you don't have a lift.

Maybe I'll break down and bring it to a local mechanic...

jmohr · Apr 13, 2012

I am a firm believer in Free All. Yes it is expensive, but it is well worth the cost. One can goes a very long way.

RayP(MI) · Apr 13, 2012

I had a situation where I could try a series of different brands in identical frozen nuts on a hayrake. Even with repeated appilcations over about a three week period, being careful to keep same brand on a given fastener.... NONE of them penetrated worth a darn. When I finally broke them loose, all the threads were dry inside. My favorite method now is heating with a propane torch, until warm enough to melt wax, and applying several heat, wax cycles. Wax seems to penetrate quite well under these conditions.

Indiana Ken · Apr 13, 2012

If you can get to it with a 3" cutoff disc I would cut the whole thing flush with the pipe and weld on a new bung. NAPA or a speed equipment shop should sell them.

If you can't get to it weld on a new bung in a place that you can get to and leave the current one in place to plug the hole.

barnE · Apr 13, 2012

Make a hole and weld in a new piece. Dave

tjdub · Apr 13, 2012

> NONE of them penetrated worth a darn. When I finally broke them loose, all the threads were dry inside. My favorite method now is heating with a propane torch

I agree with you 100% RayP. I've probably used every penetrating oil out there and I think they all work about the same (NOT MUCH, and all usually get burned off with the torch eventually anyway). Never tried using a propane torch though, I apply the Powell Doctrine and move directly to the oxyacetylene torch. If you heat until it starts to turn red and then give it a shot of penetrating oil as soon as it's cool enough not to evaporate on contact, then it will penetrate, otherwise it usually doesn't help much.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 13, 2012

Marvel mystery oil IS ATF!

Anonymous-0 · Apr 13, 2012

I just got done taking 2 copper fittings out of a water heater, with ATF-acetone mix, today, no problems. Also remember to tighten what you are trying to loosen, first. Once you see, or feel it move, then change directions.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 13, 2012

KY has never failed me yet. :shock:

Detmurds · Apr 13, 2012

It's hands down,..PB Blaster for me. It seems to work nearly every time I need something loosened.

Stovepipe · Apr 14, 2012

Are you able to get a drill in there? If so drill out most of the center, then heat to red hot, and cool with a spray bottle of really cold water. Repeat a couple of times. Then use an easy out. I didn't come up with this myself, but it has worked fantastic for me.

ASEguy · Apr 14, 2012

Chrysler has a heat riser penetrant spray that works very well. It comes out grey.

Penetrating oil

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