John Deere 535 baler twine pump belt keeps breaking

I am having problems with my JD 535 baler. The belt on the twine pump continues to break. I have replaced the pump and checked the idler pulley alignment. In the last 2 days I have gone thru 5 new belts.

The original JD belt calls for a 42 inch belt. I used aftermarket belts during the weekend when the dealer was closed and they break just like the JD belt. The green "power rated" ones seem to break faster than the others.

In checking the archives, I see a post in 2007 that describes my problem exactly, but the solution was not posted.

When the belt broke the first time, I did replace the pump with an auto part store version. It fits perfectly, but I am not sure of the gpm for it versus one from JD. It pumps fine and the twine ties perfect as long as the belt is good.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and found a solution? One belt lasted for about 120 bales. The green power rated belt broke on the 4th roll. Course by then the baler was completely warm/hot. Thanks for the help.

After reading some more, one person had a similar problem and traced it down to the pulley on the pump being too wide/worn. The original belt is a 1/2" by 42" size. Wonder what a 5/8 or so belt width would do? Any suggestions?

Please keep us posted on what you find we have a 535 that must have a million bales on it has never had a problem yet

TC
It's been along time since I worked on a 535 baler. Are you sure the twine mechanism is resetting itself when twine arm is in "home position"? In "home position" the belt has slack and the pump is not supposed to be turning.Another thing is are you getting the belt guide on the pulley in the correct place.

Part Number: E78287
Part Price: 14.40 USD
On Hand: 3 Check Other Stores
Description: BELT (PUMP)
Specification
Weight 0.26 LBS 0.12 Kg
Belt Section 4L
Effective Length 42.000 IN
Width 0.500 IN
Thickness 0.295 IN
Angle 32
Material Spec KEVLAR

You said you changed the pump did you replace the pulleys.

Not certain why the pump was changed? Problem is something on the discharge side of the pump that allows it to deadhead and build enough pressure to break the belt. Assuming the belt "breaking" is a spun/ worn through spot and not a clean break?

Here is an update. Just got back from the local JD dealer for parts and discussion. Wouldn't you know it, someone else had bought all of their belts of the size I needed.

Seems like they (the customer that ran them out of belts) had done the same as me and replaced the pump with a reman from auto parts store and are breaking/burning up belts. The parts guys said they think there is an orifice or some part inside the pump that must restrict or bypass flow that is different from an automotive application. They say it is not a part that you can purchase anywhere?? A JD pump is $315 while the auto parts one is about $45.

So, I went to TSC and bought a couple of kevlar belts to try to finish my baling job. I am trying a 5/8 x 43 inch and another that is the original 1/2 by 42 size. This is all that store has in stock so my local options for belts is running low.

Does anyone have more information on the JD pump versus automotive versions that can help??

Do you want to keep re-repairing the symptoms or fix the cause?

(quoted from post at 00:06:59 04/13/12) The parts guys said they think there is an orifice or some part inside the pump that must restrict or bypass flow that is different from an automotive application. They say it is not a part that you can purchase anywhere??
Does anyone have more information on the JD pump versus automotive versions that can help??

Click to expand...

TC
I wonder if the person at the JD dealership really knows how the twine pump is intended to operate correctly. IIRC years ago I put automotive pumps on the 30 & 35 series balers.

I going to ask you a question again. When the twine tubes are in home position(against the knife operating linkage) is the pump drive belt loose IE idler pulley not putting tension on the belt????????????? I've seen the twine pump control linkage get to where the belt stays engaged all the time. You can call me if you so chose 8one7-five1seven-1five9zero

TxJim--thanks for your response and help. I have double/triple checked that the belt is loose and pump not running in the idle position. I know the difference because when the first belt broke, the guy at the auto parts store measured it at 41 inches and that one burned up almost immediately.

Yesterday afternoon, another problem came up after I had just put a 5/8 x 43 belt on. There is no response whatever for the twine arm. My guess is the control valve has malfunctioned and there is no pressure getting to the cylinder. I am investigating that first thing this morning.

Ever have one of those weeks? This has been Friday the 13th luck for me all week. Found a dead cow, baler problems non stop, etc. Right now, I am trying to bale a 25 acre patch of ryegrass about 6 miles away from my shop. On the last trip over there with tractor/baler yesterday after the latest parts run--tried to engage the throttle on the tractor and the throttle lever literally broke off in my hand. Can't bale with foot throttle only, so back to the shop for a "farmer fix".

Got the throttle situation fixed, went the 6 miles back to the hay field and tried to bale. NO go! Then while looking at the twine pump situation, I heard a bearing clicking on the top roller. Just one of those days-weeks when nothing seems to go right. Well I guess the twine pump situation may have saved a burned baler if I hadn't noticed the bad bearing so that may be a bright spot.

I will get the problem figured out and post the results. Thank you and all who are trying to help.

Just because the bearing is making noise isn't an indication that the brg is bad. Get you a laser thermometer and check the brg after baling a few bales. On the twine control valve: I've seen the spool(which stands up) get dirty/rusty and not shift(change) twine arms direction. As I previously stated feel free to call me and I will try to assist you.

Final update--I finally installed another new auto parts store pump on the baler. It burned/broke the belts just cycling the tying mechanism sitting right at the shop, never going to the field.

So, I took the baler to the local JD dealer for a fix. They ended up putting a new JD pump on it and it is supposed to work now. I won't bale hay until tomorrow at the earliest. They reported that they had seen trouble with the non-JD pumps before and even checked with other Deere dealers for comparison. Uniformly they agreed there is something different in the pumps, but no one seems to know what that is.

To those of you who have successfully used an auto parts store pump, congratulations. All I can say is it did not work for me. In fact it cost me a custom baling job on one field of hay that exceeded the pump cost by more than twice.

Again thank you to all of you for your help.