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Tube size or repair for rear tire repair?

J

jfharper

Member
Got a rear tire size 14.9x24 that has a leak, it has a tube in it. Was wondering if I should repair the tube with rubber cement and a large patch, or get a new tube. Kinda strapped for cash, would rather repair if it will hold for a while.

The tire is loaded with water, live in CA where there is no hard freezes.

Has anyone had luck repairing tubes like this?

If it is better to buy a new tube, someone one said I should get a tube size 18.4x38, eventhough my tire is 14.9x24...I was curious about why this was...anyone know what size tube I should get. Thanks for any advice.
 
JF. I spent 22 years in the farm tire business. Do NOT get an 18.4X38 tube to put in a 14.9X24 tire it is too big and will wrinkle causing it to rub a hole in itself. It will then be unrepairable. If you have a nail hole, patch it. If a seam is split replace it or you will be taking the tire apart and replacing it later.
 
The tire guy patched an 18.4R38 radial for me last week. Loaded with chloride. Just a very small hole. If it had been a big tear,I'd have had him put in a new tube.
 
Hope to tell you it is. I bought an 11.00 22.5 truck tube for the manure spreader last week and it was $49.
 
I agree with the sentiment that you should fix a nail hole or something similar in size. If it's split or has a large hole or tear then you might just as well replace it. Also... if you don't already have the cement, patches and requisite skills at patching you might be farther ahead to buy a tube...
It can sometimes be hard to make a patch stick to a tube from a loaded tire.
Don't forget to find the corresponding hole in the tire and buff and patch that as well or all your work will be for nothing. Mark the location of the stem on the tire sidewall with tire marker before you break the tire down.

Rod
 

I have patched tube many times. Rarely had a problem afterwards. However, if the crack is due to a sidewall split you are wasting your time
 
I fix tubes all the time. The big thing is with having fluid in them it is a bit hard to get the area dry enough to have a patch stick well. But if you had the equipment I have that is no big deal either but I have a hot patch set up and that works very well but is old school and few know how or much of any thing about the set up any more
 
Yeah, I've repaired dirt bike tubes before and most have held fine. Wasn't sure about a giant water filled tractor tube though. I've buffed 'em, glued 'em and patched 'em...my Dad taught me how.

Wonder though why it is hard to get the tube dry? Isn't it just the outside? Unless I'm missing something.
 
After marking and disassembling, after finding the hole in the tire....check if it still has a nail, etc. stuck in it. Do put a boot over that spot inside the tire-even if you replace the tube. Boots come in various sizes, have adhesive side to bond to the tire. Also, to dry the patch area on the tube, use a propane or oxy torch to apply some heat. Any size tube from bike to tractor, I lay the trouble spot over a closed vise and make the repair. Similar structure would work fine as well. Better than a flat table. Roll the patch with a hammer handle, pipe, whatever, to get a good bond. Holes I patch, splits I replace.
 
Hey Rich, where do you get your hot patches? I have the clamp, but can't seem to find the patches anymore around here. Keith
 
Make sure that you check, or FEEL the inside of
the tire for whatever may have caused the
puncture! If not found and removed, you'll be
doing the job over.
My problem is Locust thorns in the riding mower tires. The sharp point breaks off, and they keep
working through. I try to poke them through with
an ice pick.
 
The patches are not hot ones like you could buy years ago and clamp them down then light them. I use the common glue type patch but have a machine that heats the patch and tube up and that in turn sort of melts the patch on and it works very well but takes about 30 minutes to do the job
 
I have patched a few tubes...use a patch with enough overlap. Use the same brand cement and patch...some brands are not compatible. For a big hole, put a patch on top of a patch to double the thickness...I have seen thin patches rot though with age. If cementing a new valve on...patch the old location and move the replacement valve to a new location a quarter around the tube.
 
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