Tractor Air Conditioner Questsion

JDB · Mar 26, 2012

I am thinking about changing my International 886 from R12 freon to R134. The local NAPA guy has a kit for flushing out the lines, putting in the new oil, and adding the freon. He claims that all you need is to change the dryer, use the kit, and be good to go for years to come. I ask you guys, is it really that simple or is there more to it than that?

BushogPapa · Mar 26, 2012

On my R-12 systems:
I have simply just changed the Low-Side filler connection and put R-134 directly in without doing a single thing more..
I do find that R-134 likes to run at a higher Low-Side pressure...I would say between 40 and 50 PSI (operating)..
Not had the 1st sign of trouble in 10+ years..

Ron..

rrlund · Mar 26, 2012

It's even simpler than that. I changed a tractor and my pickup. I didn't flush the system or change the dryer. Both systems had gone dry on me. I just followed the instructions on the package. You screw the cylinder on where they tell you to. Turn it down with a wrench to force the oil in,put the new stem on and hook the hose up then put the gas in. Simple as that.

Texasmark1 · Mar 26, 2012

No personal experience and I didn't do the chemistry on gas molecule size, but I have read that the molecules making up R-134 are smaller than for R-12 so they make better hoses for the new freon. With that said, one using the old hoses might experience some annual leaking that is not due to a leaking compressor seal or valve, but just the hoses themselves.

From a practical standpoint since oil circulates with the freon, one would expect to see oil where the freon seeps through the hose....unless of course the oil molecules are too large to accompany the freon.

Good luck.

Mark

JDseller · Mar 26, 2012

I have switched many over by just refilling them with R-134. The manufactures claim the oil in compressors is different but I have not had any trouble yet.

I would only change it if the old system is out of freon. The R-12 will cool faster than R-134. The R-134 does not transfer energy quite as well as R-12.

The Older JD cabs, 30 and 40 series, would freeze you out with R-12 but just cool you with R-134.

I do switch them just because of the freon cost but they don't work as well.

I do think the best way is to flush out the lines and install a new re-dryer. Evacuate the system and recharge it with R-134. Almost all of the new compressors in the last fifteen years have oil in them that is okay with either freon.

evilboweviel · Mar 26, 2012

or you can use hot shot as straight replacement
only need a epa lic and pocket full of money
hot shot

glennster · Mar 26, 2012

evac the system and leave a vaccuum on it for a couple hours to be sure the system is completely empty. no need to change the drier. use ester oil for the compressor lube and re-charge with r-134. one thing to remember is use about 75% of r-134 compared to r-12. ie three pound r-12 system, 3 X .75 = 2.25 pounds of r-134 to do the charge.

Allan in NE · Mar 26, 2012

What BushhogPapa said,

Install a low side adaptor and Dump that R134 right in on top of the R12.

Doesn't hurt a blessed thing.

Allan

pete 23 · Mar 26, 2012

I have converted a lot over the years. Some with the whole deal, new drier, flushing system, new expansion valve, either different compressor due to that being the reason for working on it. Some, just evacuated and added R134A. That being said, I have seen some really sludged up systems that have been just adding different refrigerants. Can make a real mess. But, what are you out really, as you may have to give it the works when it fails or give it the works now. The new hoses do have a lining in them to hold R134A. A 85% charge of the max recommended original charge works well. Air conditioning work can be a real pain.

bobs old iron · Mar 26, 2012

have a old 83 ford ranger diesel with a/c, all the components are factory welded, went to change over to r134, would have to replace most of a/c parts,,friend at service station said, [we done this] just let system dry out for a couple of days, with valve stems out, then we replaced with oil and 134, works fine..

Ken Macfarlane · Mar 26, 2012

Not everyones cup of tea but I've had really good luck with propane/butane blends in R12 systems. Its the only one I can put in here without a license. (Our province regulates all the main commerical refridgerants).

tomNE · Mar 26, 2012

I'm with allen; dump the 134 in on top of the r-12. done it dozens of times. I don't even change the fittings anymore. i just charge it with r-12 fittings!

Red Mud · Mar 26, 2012

I would use freeze 12 in place of the r-12, you don't have to change anything. If your system still has r-12 you can mix the freeze 12 with it. Not sure about the freeze 12 cost now, I bought 50 cases several years ago for 75 cents per can and I'm down to 4 cases now. When it's gone I'll quit working on old A/C's.

Hobo,NC · Mar 26, 2012

(quoted from post at 17:30:13 03/26/12) I am thinking about changing my International 886 from R12 freon to R134. The local NAPA guy has a kit for flushing out the lines, putting in the new oil, and adding the freon. He claims that all you need is to change the dryer, use the kit, and be good to go for years to come. I ask you guys, is it really that simple or is there more to it than that?

Right way and a wrong way to do it sometimes it works out even if you do it the wrong way... Blends (freeze12 are what ever) are nuttin more that 134 with some chit to make it look good to the buy'er... Just gonna recommend a high side pressure cut out if it does not already have one and all the air you can add (what ever it takes, aux condenser fan and all the insulation you can add to make sure what ever the fan pulls will be pulled across the condenser...) to the insufficient R12 condenser used for a 134A conversion..

If you don't understand AC pressures than you need to find someone that does..

Huskers86 · Mar 26, 2012

I've been dumping it in with the r 12 for years. Switch the low side and pour it to it. I don't use the stop leak stuff. Mechanic over at deere said they were having system troubles with the stuff. He claimed when they quit using it and thier troubles stopped. B.s. or not I don't use the stop leak and so far so good. Get as cold as I need it.

bradk · Mar 26, 2012

I'm with Allan and BushogPapa,but would add about 2 or 3 oz of ester oil to system,suck it down and recharge w/R134.Add a label or write with a paint pen that it was changed over to R134 so the next guy knows it and you're done.

I've seen tractor and combine AC systems sludged up beyond belief using the alternative crap like "Freeze 12" for example.I wouldn't be happy if my $3500 charge machine got ruined from reclaiming alternative refrigerants.

buickanddeere · Mar 27, 2012

If air conditioning advice doesn't include vacuuming the system dry and clean then leak checking. It's not good advice.

Texasmark1 · Mar 27, 2012

I'll go for that as being the correct way to ensure a successful fill.

Joe(TX) · Mar 27, 2012

Freeze 12 was not the cause of the sludge. It is a mixture of r-134A and r-22.. The sludge was from leaving the mineral oil in wich will not mix with r-134a or freeze 12. The sludge is the remains of the compressor due to lack of lubrication.

spped · Mar 28, 2012

adding oil to a system that is full of oil already is a bad idea.It means you will buying a compressor soon.I always flush the complete system.But i have to stand behind my work and if it goes bad its on me.So i do it right the first time when its on there bill.

spped · Mar 28, 2012

Try turning the screw in on the expansion valve about a 1/4 turn. It will make them get colder.

Tractor Air Conditioner Questsion

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

New User

Similar threads