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frostfree faucet???

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hey folks, bought 3 12" frostfrees several years ago..... Just got all my stuff together to redo my water lines this weekend. Planning to run 3/4 line to fill my tanks quicker... Need one more fitting to tie into the frostfree so grabbed it so I could stop by the store tomorrow. Big 3/4 inch tube and threads but the "valve" only has at most a 1/4 inch hole.. Nothing like 3 steps forward and 10 back.............

Guess I'll just use a gate valve inside and shut it off when it freezes unless I can find something different....

Any tips are welcome.

Thanks, Dave
 
I'm not sure if you are using standard SAE or whatever reference standard, Inches, Feet etc. vs metric, but if you need to 90 off the bottom of the hydrant riser, (galv.pipe the spigot is attached to), probably takes a 3/4" "street elbow". That is if we are talking hydrants here. I put in 2 new ones last year, and I've still got one down, might be in the packing (always save the parts list and instructions that come with these). I lowered a section of pipe that was freezing in the barn, insulated above it, connected same, have a new Gould pump pulling water from a cistern type arrangement I also installed. The place is hexed, still have water problems, when it was working before, sure took no time to rinse and fill all those buckets. I'm not exactly sure with all these plastic pipes, fittings, hydrants, but they can be a real pain in the @ss sometimes, nah, the place is hexed !
 
If you use those when you shut them off don't overtighten them. There is a part inside that cracks and they will drip. My kid use to like to overdo it and I have 3 or 4 around here that are broken.I have the same ones going thru my basement wall and they have not ever frozen yet and it get to -20 here.
 
I once had a ball valve mounted inside with a pipe
coming through the wall, sloping down so it would
drain. I had a rod attached to the handle through
the wall beside the pipe so I could pull out for
water and push in to shut it off. This worked well
in MN winters. This was a 1/4 turn on-off, most of
them come with a hole already in the end of the
handle for a rod.
 
We have one of those near the hot water tank as a spigot, these get a fair amount if not a lot of use, not impressed, this one leaks, get the best made you can, go easy on the valve handle when near close or all the way open, I think if you crank em tight they don't like it and leak after repeatedly cranking on them.

Same with the hydrants, though that discussion took place here before, no doubt check out the best ones and look at the exploded view to see what you are dealing with. I had one here near the garden since I was a kid when the place was built, in '78, never gave a lick of trouble, till I slid sideways in the winter into it with my D7 caterpillar ! That just bent the pipe, kinda saved me a longer trip and into a bad place, pipe held a 15 ton tractor !
 
I have one of those mounted through the wall of my pumphouse. Inside temps in the 40's in the winter. Has worked OK, only froze up once or twice. BUT BE SURE YOU DRAIN THE OUTSIDE PART BETWEEN USES. I left mine connected to a hose, froze the outside tube, burst it. Removed it, soldered the split, and still working OK.
 
Dave I have a Arrowhead frost free faucet, they work great,
but they must be installed with a downward pitch toward
nozzle so they can drain out. The seal is on the other end
inside the sill.
 
The problem is packaging the valve so it will fit through the hole you drill in the wall. Any frost-proof faucet will be the same.

Don't worry too much about the size of that hole, It will cause some restriction, but not that much. It's much more important that you use big enough pipe running up to it; if you plumbed it in with 3/4 inch, you should be in good shape.
 
(quoted from post at 02:38:56 03/14/12) The problem is packaging the valve so it will fit through the hole you drill in the wall. Any frost-proof faucet will be the same.

Don't worry too much about the size of that hole, It will cause some restriction, but not that much. It's much more important that you use big enough pipe running up to it; if you plumbed it in with 3/4 inch, you should be in good shape.
Click to expand...

Gonna hold you to that cause I don't wanna reinvent the wheel on this project and waste my rountuit..............
 
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