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somebody was askin about good cedar posts the other day

B

BCnT

Well-known Member
heres what the post look like that i use...that red heart will outlast me by at least another 40 years
c3696_lrg.jpg
 
BCnT,

What about the white ring around the outside? I've cut and used a bunch of cedar posts on my farm but the white part seems to rot in a few years and leaves the post loose in the ground.

Do you do anything special about the white ring, or do your posts withstand rot around the outside?

Thanks for any advice. It's a whole lot cheaper to cut posts on my farm than to buy pressure treated or metal T-posts from the Co-Op.

Tom in TN
 
BCnT, Guys,,,You are right about the red heart out lasting you by a large # of years!
To answer Toms question here goes......
Strip each post of the stringy outside bark, (The Bark that most of us tried to smoke when we made our first attempt at smoking!)
Dad taught me this!>>> Before you tamp the post in place. The bark will trap moisture and start the post to slowly rot. Strip the bark off,,, A local cedar yard will Power Wash the bark off for a price or you can do it yourself it just takes a few minutes. The white pithy part of the post will eventually rot some but the bark just accelerates the process. A power washer is alot faster and easier than hand striping the bark off.
Stripping the bark will also make a striking fence up beside the main road and will set off your place too! Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
 
Probably pencils out to use home-grown posts and just re-tamp with a little gravel if it loosens up, rather than buying posts.
 
Are you talking about Eastern red ceders. If you are, I have 1002 of them (standing). I think would take alot of work to make a post out of them.
 
i use rail road ties concreted in for h-brace corners on wood post fences...cedar for line posts...so far i havent had any problems with posts getting loose from white part rotting...pulled some that were on place when we bought in '64...bottom foot or so still had bark on em...dirt had settled into upper portion that had rotted to heart...i like to have never got them posts out...thats the posts i reused in a section that stays damp.

best advice i can give anybody is build stout corners that dont move and stretch your wire so you can pick it like a banjo...line posts are just stays.
 
cedar i use is called mountain cedar locally...most comes from Texas Hill Country...its as crooked as a snake...i've dug sideways post holes to keep fenceline straight.
theres nuthin easy about buildin fence including cuttin post...i always got more time than money...if your trees have a heart like pic they would make good posts.
 
John i agree with you that stripping the bark makes a pretty fence but i havent seen any proof in my 62 years that fence lasts longer...i've built fence both ways.
my dad was givin me a ration of S*** about using welded pipe corners and tee post last time i fenced ranch...he kept asking me what i was gonna do when that heavy wall 3" rusted off at the ground...i told him i was gonna laff my a$$ off from my grave...let the next guy worry about replacin em lol
 
my grandad had his place fenced with those,when dad bought the place he took out the cross fences and he left a lot of them lay in the pasture( i have no clue why) but those dang things are still solid after i know fifty years. i still find one now and then with a mower.sure smalls good in a campfire.
 
BCnT, I am with you all the way here with All Steel Corners and T-post! I personally see no reason to use wood at all!
My reasoning is this,,,On good steel pipe...if cedar post last 60 to 70 yrs then steel should double that here at my place!!! LMAO from grave too!
Later,
John A
 
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