As a kid dad had a 55 gallon drum of 30 # motor oil he bought for $10 bucks or something in the 70s, the 1970s, well he always used it in his stihl 031av, which still runs fine today, as bar oil. I have used winter oil, in winter, regular bar oil and 10w 30 in my saws. Someone asked me about using used motor oil, or fryer oil??? I said i never tried that. Has anyone used fryer oil or used drain oil in there saw? I dont think it's something I would try, but maybe it's ok???
- Thread starter JayinNY
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I wouldn't use used or fryer oil, in my stihls, them little oil pumps, are too expensive, for that sh!t!
JOHNNYfromMI
Member
Drain oil is hard on the oil pump...cheaper to ues new oil than replace the oil pump.
Fryer oil? i have no idea.
Fryer oil? i have no idea.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
It states in the Husky owners manual not to use waste oil.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
We always considered motor oil to be not sticky enough. My dad used rock drill oil in the 60's, it was very sticky, but we never used sprocket nose bars. I am sure hard nose bars require better oil, but now I think everyone uses sprocket nose bars. I use regular chain oil and sometimes in cold weather I thin it a little with some used universal fluid.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have used all types of oil in my stihl saw for 15yrs and it is still running great. the difference is chain saw oil has an additve which holds the oil to the bar longer, other, oils' come off chain bar faster
Smart Arse guy
Member
I have used 10w-30 new motor oil. I also put a teaspoon of oil right on the bar and chain just to keep it lubed up.
I supposed you can use Waste motor oil out of your truck or something but....I would filter it first before going in one of my saws.
I supposed you can use Waste motor oil out of your truck or something but....I would filter it first before going in one of my saws.
sixtyninegmc
Member
I wouldn`t use used oil, but I have ran vegetable oil without a problem. A chainsaw can be quite useful for making quick work of frozen moose or caribou, and you don`t want 30wt on the meat. Works just peachy.
I would not put used fryer oil in anything I expected to work again. Not only does it contain small abrasive particles from the food that was cooked in it, it may contain chemicals that are corrosive from storage or processing. If I didn't have anything else used motor oil if it was filtered, maybe.
For what I use my chainsaw for, I expect I spend more money on gas than on bar oil. I figure that the little bit extra $$ for bar oil probably is cheaper than ruining bars/chains, or damage to the saw. Last time the local store put bar oil on sale, I bought three for the price of two. Still had some left over from the previous time I bought bar oil, probably several years before. Guess I am set for a while.
For what I use my chainsaw for, I expect I spend more money on gas than on bar oil. I figure that the little bit extra $$ for bar oil probably is cheaper than ruining bars/chains, or damage to the saw. Last time the local store put bar oil on sale, I bought three for the price of two. Still had some left over from the previous time I bought bar oil, probably several years before. Guess I am set for a while.
retired farmer
Well-known Member
Sears used to have some really nice bar oil back in the last century. Don't know what they got anymore, don't frequent their place anymore.
I think its a good question a lot of people consider doing it, I think my father used drained motor oil at one time, anything is better than nothing say if in a bind or something, but I'd prefer the oil suited for the purpose myself.
I exclusively used Stihl products in my Stihl saw, I know everyone questions these things, used to be like going to a dealer for a part or an aftermarket part, dealer was always outrageous, alternative always affordable, though a lot of that has changed and there are or were some things that were worth going to a dealer for. Kind of an odd way to look at it, you know how some will brag, nothing but the best, spare no expense, got my big brand name thing ( whatever it may be etc.) LOL
Performance wise, Stihl bar oil really seems to stick, and it seems more visible when you rev the saw up and check to see the chain is getting oiled, judging by what flings off. I think it performs best, all the years I used it on this one saw, 2 chains, same bar, saw shop said the bar looked fine. Recently I ran about 2 gallons of bar oil that you get at Auto Zone, seems to run off a little more, does the job though, you can see a lot more dust sticking in places, so you had best take the bar off and clean that oil slot, which I do frequently. It does seem to fling off enough that you can see it about the same, check the bar and chain seems well oiled, I have always kept the oil set on max, (adjuster on the bottom) It works well in both the cold and warm temps, but I'd prefer the Stihl bar oil, the other would be my 2nd choice. Apparently, the Oilmatic chain, bar and that oil are supposed to work together for best results. Stihl instructs to use their product and I know they want to sell it, but for the cost and the amount used to do firewood, plus why not treat that expensive or prized saw with the best you can get for it, not going to make or break you, even if you run full time as a logger.
I've always used their 2 cycle oil, make sure to get all of it mixed in by rinsing the little container with fresh gas, and make sure the 1 gallon mark is never exceeded. Upon visual examination of the piston and cylinder, sure looks fine, starts easy, must have good compression, maybe its their oil or not, but the results are good, thing ought to run a good long while.
I exclusively used Stihl products in my Stihl saw, I know everyone questions these things, used to be like going to a dealer for a part or an aftermarket part, dealer was always outrageous, alternative always affordable, though a lot of that has changed and there are or were some things that were worth going to a dealer for. Kind of an odd way to look at it, you know how some will brag, nothing but the best, spare no expense, got my big brand name thing ( whatever it may be etc.) LOL
Performance wise, Stihl bar oil really seems to stick, and it seems more visible when you rev the saw up and check to see the chain is getting oiled, judging by what flings off. I think it performs best, all the years I used it on this one saw, 2 chains, same bar, saw shop said the bar looked fine. Recently I ran about 2 gallons of bar oil that you get at Auto Zone, seems to run off a little more, does the job though, you can see a lot more dust sticking in places, so you had best take the bar off and clean that oil slot, which I do frequently. It does seem to fling off enough that you can see it about the same, check the bar and chain seems well oiled, I have always kept the oil set on max, (adjuster on the bottom) It works well in both the cold and warm temps, but I'd prefer the Stihl bar oil, the other would be my 2nd choice. Apparently, the Oilmatic chain, bar and that oil are supposed to work together for best results. Stihl instructs to use their product and I know they want to sell it, but for the cost and the amount used to do firewood, plus why not treat that expensive or prized saw with the best you can get for it, not going to make or break you, even if you run full time as a logger.
I've always used their 2 cycle oil, make sure to get all of it mixed in by rinsing the little container with fresh gas, and make sure the 1 gallon mark is never exceeded. Upon visual examination of the piston and cylinder, sure looks fine, starts easy, must have good compression, maybe its their oil or not, but the results are good, thing ought to run a good long while.
I have one saw that the manufacturer recommended 30 weight motor oil. Worked well for me on that saw. Bought a couple jugs of bar oil from TSC a while back, the consistancy of honey. Don't think it would even flow in our cold weather. I have been using motor oil, until we get warmer.
My son-in-law's brother works for a well known tree service company. Says he gets a lot of bar oil which is recycled motor oil and auto transmission fluid. Says he can smell the difference. Since he uses his own saw, he preferrs a little better oil than the company supplies.
My son-in-law's brother works for a well known tree service company. Says he gets a lot of bar oil which is recycled motor oil and auto transmission fluid. Says he can smell the difference. Since he uses his own saw, he preferrs a little better oil than the company supplies.
pat sublett
Well-known Member
Regular oil slings off on top of the bar, never gets to where the cutting is, chain gets hot and dulls quickly.
I use drain oil from tractor oil changes. I've never had a bit of trouble with an oiler in a saw yet (knock on wood) and go through about 3-4 gallons a year. There's an added bonus that you can spin the saw up with the tip of the bar next to some wood and see just how much oil is coming out to the chain (black splatter) which is helpful if you're cutting in a lot of snow which tends to jam up the oil flow with chips. When it gets down near -20F I switch to used trans-hydraulic fluid because 15w40 pours like jelly. That sure as heck didn't happen this year, though.
Tim in New York
Member
Back when we cut a ton of wood in the late 70's and early 80's, we would thin our bar oil with kerosene or diesel in the winter so it would pour OK. Never used drain oil though...
Tim
Tim
> It states in the Husky owners manual not to use waste oil.
They do make a lot of money selling their Husqvarna-labeled Bar and Chain Oil though. Also, if they did say it was OK, there would be plenty of people dumping chunks of crud into it into their saws with the drail oil and demanding warranty service when their oilers broke.
They do make a lot of money selling their Husqvarna-labeled Bar and Chain Oil though. Also, if they did say it was OK, there would be plenty of people dumping chunks of crud into it into their saws with the drail oil and demanding warranty service when their oilers broke.
ShadetreeRet
Well-known Member
Personally, I hesitate to use drained oil as it has a certain amount of dirt and contamination in it. Years ago, almost everyone used motor oil but the chain didn't turn as fast then, especially on the gear drive saws, so it didn't sling off as easily. I use regular chain oil nowadays, I feel that it is cheap insurance for the chain and bar. Just my nickels worth. (Used to be two cents worth, but you gotta allow for inflation!)
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Run cheap saws but not cheap oil. Stihl low temp stuff in winter, flows great in cold weather. Poulan, Stihl or Husky in the summer. On rare occasions have cut the summer oils with a small amount of diesel and used temporarily until I could buy the desired Stihl winter grade.
rustred
Well-known Member
yep that junky oil is the same as putting engine oil in your differential. it will burn up as the oil is just too thin and does not have the proper additives to stick to the gears. each oil is for a reason and thats what its for. chain oil sticks to the chain as engine oil just flys off.
You can almost use K-Y Gel in my opinion. Vegetable oil is much better than any chain oil or motor oil,..plus you aren't wearing most of it on ya either. As a matter of fact, I use old motor oil from the trucks, car, and tractors all the time and my machines work great here in the tall tree northwest!
It is only to help milk that chain through the wood, and nothing else really.
I've been cutting wood for almost 50 years. 20-40 full cords of hardwood every spring-summer-fall. I have never paid a penny for bar oil. I've used nothing but used motor oil. I have never had any premature wear problems - not even on my 32" hardnose bars.
I heard tons of negative nonsense about motor oil being no-good. Kind of funny considering all the new bars customers bought from us over the years - and they used only the "best" bar oil. Many of those bars I took home and they worked fine. A mis-sharpened chain often wound up with a bar getting the blame. I still have a stack of 30-40 bars from the first Stihl/Homelite/Deere dealership I worked at in the late 1960s.
I must admit that I feel a little guilty pouring used black diesel motor oil into a new shiny saw - but that guilt wears off pretty fast.
I DID have a bar-oil problem recently. That in John Deere (EFCO) pro 56 cc saws with 20" bars. It wasn't the oil though. The oil holes in the bars are drilled too small and plug very easy.
I will never use any bio oil simply because it goes bad and rots when it sits too long. I've got several remote properties -some 1000 miles from home. They all have many chainsaws and I'm not going to be draining all my saws when stored. I learned that lesson a long time ago when I greased my dad's fishing reel with peanut butter.
I heard tons of negative nonsense about motor oil being no-good. Kind of funny considering all the new bars customers bought from us over the years - and they used only the "best" bar oil. Many of those bars I took home and they worked fine. A mis-sharpened chain often wound up with a bar getting the blame. I still have a stack of 30-40 bars from the first Stihl/Homelite/Deere dealership I worked at in the late 1960s.
I must admit that I feel a little guilty pouring used black diesel motor oil into a new shiny saw - but that guilt wears off pretty fast.
I DID have a bar-oil problem recently. That in John Deere (EFCO) pro 56 cc saws with 20" bars. It wasn't the oil though. The oil holes in the bars are drilled too small and plug very easy.
I will never use any bio oil simply because it goes bad and rots when it sits too long. I've got several remote properties -some 1000 miles from home. They all have many chainsaws and I'm not going to be draining all my saws when stored. I learned that lesson a long time ago when I greased my dad's fishing reel with peanut butter.
I can't speak for what you - but all the engines I drain oil from have 10-20 micron oil-filters.
How do you figure oil you drain from an engine is dirty? It is constantly filtered. If oil is good enough to allow a diesel engine to run well with all it's tight tolerances - it's not going to hurt a chain or bar on a chainsaw.
How do you figure oil you drain from an engine is dirty? It is constantly filtered. If oil is good enough to allow a diesel engine to run well with all it's tight tolerances - it's not going to hurt a chain or bar on a chainsaw.
Chain saw Bar oil is designed for the chainsaw bar period! you dont dump bar oil in your engines or any piece requireing oil etc......... why would you want to use dirty non bar oil in your chain saw??????? I question the common sense of this. I dont do it.Add to the fact Ive cut timber for a living some and we never used dirty non bar oil in the saws Boss would fire you in a second! just my 0.02cts
ive used both bar oil and 30 wt in my saws over the last 35 years no problems, used oil? never! that saw has a oil pump on it to supply the oil to the bar, used oil will shorten its life considerably would you drain your tractor engine of oil, then dump that in your car? i dont think so ... used oil is good though use it to protect tools, your plow moldboards ect, put it on your dirt roads to control dust, if big brother or a nosy neighbor doesnt see you
I don't run waste oil on bars. We've had choppers in the past who would... and they'd be here getting my waste oil which was generally hydraulic oil at that time. I know he changed a lot of bars that summer. Roller nose's that were completly destroyed. This was dirty/gritty oil. Engine oil should be OK but I think Id' still want to filter it out and make sure it didn't have water in it.
I just don't see it being worth the trouble for the little bit you'd save
Beyond that, there is nothing magical about bar oil. It's just waste oil that's been filtered and has some additives to make it tacky. In reality, anything wet and clean will do.
Rod
I just don't see it being worth the trouble for the little bit you'd save
Beyond that, there is nothing magical about bar oil. It's just waste oil that's been filtered and has some additives to make it tacky. In reality, anything wet and clean will do.
Rod
When I drain oil from one of my trucks, it's not so old that it's "ruining my engine." Using it then in my chainsaw is no different. If it's good enough for a HD truck diesel - it's certainly good enough for simple chainsaw oil pump.
I don't grasp the sequence of your logic.
I've been running used motor oil in my Stihl 040 and S10 saws for over 40 years. Both still have the original oil pumps. You call that shortened life?
I've got Sachs, Dolmar, Efco/Oleo Mac, Echo/Kioritz, Homelite, Mall, Stihl,Poulan,Lombard, etc. I can't say I've ever worn out an oil-pump as far as the lubricated parts are concerned. Just drive pins and plastic drive gears. Nothing to do with the oil being used.
I don't grasp the sequence of your logic.
I've been running used motor oil in my Stihl 040 and S10 saws for over 40 years. Both still have the original oil pumps. You call that shortened life?
I've got Sachs, Dolmar, Efco/Oleo Mac, Echo/Kioritz, Homelite, Mall, Stihl,Poulan,Lombard, etc. I can't say I've ever worn out an oil-pump as far as the lubricated parts are concerned. Just drive pins and plastic drive gears. Nothing to do with the oil being used.
Guess it would depend on the source of the used oil. I agree with LJD that drain oil from regularly-serviced diesel trucks should be fine- but tractors may not get serviced as regularly, especially on backyard operations, and tend to accumulat dirt and crud in the oil.
Brian G. NY
Well-known Member
I"ve used old 30 Wt oil many times over the years.
A coupla years ago WallyWorld had a clearance on the little bottles of STP so I bought all they had (6 btls) for 50 cents apiece.
A bottle of it mixed with a gallon of used 10W30
makes a real nice bar oil.
If it was running in my car engine, I can"t imagine it will hurt the bar or that little pump in the chain saw!
I am real careful when I drain the oil out of my vehicles so I don"t get any dirt in it.
I use it for filling my pump oil cans too.
That Mobil I synthetic makes a nice squirt can lube.
A coupla years ago WallyWorld had a clearance on the little bottles of STP so I bought all they had (6 btls) for 50 cents apiece.
A bottle of it mixed with a gallon of used 10W30
makes a real nice bar oil.
If it was running in my car engine, I can"t imagine it will hurt the bar or that little pump in the chain saw!
I am real careful when I drain the oil out of my vehicles so I don"t get any dirt in it.
I use it for filling my pump oil cans too.
That Mobil I synthetic makes a nice squirt can lube.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
I use any new oil from garage sales which I try to pay pennies on the dollar for. I don't really go for special oils if they cost more.
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