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how to attach an electric winch into 3 point ford 8N

E

ejensen

Well-known Member
I would like to put a 3000 pound electric winch on my ford 8N. My present plan is to use an extra drawbar and build a support for the winch on the drawbar. I would attach the 3rd member to the bracket for the winch.

I would to know what others have done and would appreciate pictures. Thank you.
 
I made a 3 Point adapter for a rees sleve hitch. Looks like an inverted "T" .
Northern sells one like it.
 
I converted my 8N to 12 volts. The winch is run by 12 volts but I don't know how long it would run on 12 volts. Have some wood logs on an another person's piece of property. Thought a smallee winch and use a block to double the pulling power would be adequate fo what I Plan to do.
 

Sorry to answer your question with another question, but why do you want to put a winch on? I'm thinking about it too just because I picked up a reasonable winch... Guess your purpose would determine how you mount it....... I was thinking about just a reciever tube on the tractor and the quad, then a receiver winch mount to interchange...
 
My purpose for the winch would be to remove small blow down douglas fir trees on anothers person piece of poperty for wood. There aren't roads into the trees but there is a road that winds through the area where the trees are. Thought that I could use a winch and a block to move the trees to a place where I could cut them into wood. Thought about mounting the winch on the front of the 8N but I'm concerned about doing damage to the front end. Front end being bolted to the casting of the engine.
I would buy a winch from Harbor Freight Tools if I decide to follow through with putting a winch on my 8N
 
Good idea about using a receiver hitch on each end. Sending a picture of my 1946 2N. The 8 N I have is a 1951. 3 point identical on the 8 N.

The 8N is on my website:
http://rockisland.com/~ejensen
a58276.jpg
 
dave2,

I'll pick up a couple of those receiver hitches from HF today. The HF store is in Bellevue , Wa which is close to my home.

Left the www out of my website of restored tractors.

http://www.rockisland.com/~ejensen
 
There are real aftermarket 8N drawbars instead of the mankiller linked between the lower three point hitch arms.
Bolt the winch to a conventional real rigid drawbar. And leave the three point only for Ford sized disks, cultivators and ploughs.
It's not very long ago we pulled the neighbour with 50+ years of Ford N experience. Out from under his tractor. He had been attempting to pull logs.
The open pto can be a danger. If you have ever seen the shredded remains of somebody whirling around the shaft. And assorted body parts and fluids spread in a line behind the tractor. You will never forget the sight and you will get cranky with every person running an open pto shaft .
 
I have posted this before, I feel it is worth posting again. in 1954 when I was 14 years old I was trying to unhook a blade from the 3 point on a ford 8n. I was standing up and swung my right leg back over the seat to try to kick powerlift arm off of pin. We had a pto adapter with a 1/4 bolt in it . I had on wet levies and the bolt in the pto grabbed my pants leg and pulled me straight down across the seat and the only thing that saved my life is that it wound me up so tight it stalled the motor on the 8n. I was out by myself and finally came to my senses and reached under the seat and pushed the pto lever out of gear and unwound myself. I counsider myself one of the luckiest people alive.
 
why not put the winch on the front,then it won't be in the way.You would need a 12 volt battery.
 
I"m thinking about mounting it on the front.This would be a safer place than on the back. Had a concern about pulling on the front due to attachment of the front end to front of engine.
 
I mounted a Harbor Freight winch on the front of my neighbors Farmall BN for him a couple of years ago. We converted to 12 volt at the same time. This is a working tractor, not a show piece. He uses it to pull small logs out of the woods to cut them up. So far he's been happy with it. The winch will slide the tractor.
 
Swing draw bar and then a ball on it for the set on plate that is common on a winch to way it is easy on easy off and your pulling low and on something that will not go up and down and cause you major problems
 
Paul,

My 8N ford has been converted to 12 volts. How large a winch did you use from Harbor Freight? I was thinking about the 3000 lb winch or the 2000 lb winch. Another tractor I have is a 1984 John Deere 850. It has a solid drawbar plus the 3 point. Several people from the forum have mentioned that it is hazardous to mount a winch on the 3 point of an 8N due to the possibility of turning the tractor over. Have given thought to mounting the winch on my farmall cub which is small but has the ability to move in tight places.

Another disadvantage of the 8N ford and the farmall cub is their high gearing. The 8N is probably one of my favorite tractors. The JD 850 has a 4 speed main and a reduction gear which is great for moving slowly.
 
dave2,

That is a great set up. Looks similiar to a Farmi. I was trying to set something up economically as logs I will be moving are very small.
Sending a picture of another tractor I use on property I own. Very costly to move the machine and the tracks tear things up. I sold my truck for moving the machine years ago due to insurance and limited use of the 59GMC 2 ton ramp truck.
a58332.jpg
 
Old,

Did you mean use the solid drawbar that is part of my 8N and do not use the drawbar on the 3 Point? Apparently many people have had serious problems with safety using the swinging drawbar. I didn't quite understand your thoughts about the ball on the swing draw bar. The main reason for setting up a winch on a wheel tractor is that the tractor can be driven down the road. Have a crawler tractor with a winch however it is expensive to move it and people do not like their ground chewed up with the tracks. Sending a picture of the crawler I use on my own property. This machine is ideal for building roads to trees and moving them out with the winch.
a58333.jpg
 
Just a thought, but the winch needs to pull in line with the winch in order to wind up correctly, so would it work to put the winch on one end of the tractor, run the cable under the length of the tractor, and have a fairlead on the other end of the tractor?
 
Paul,

Good thought. When I winch logs with the winch on my TD 6 crawler I have to keep turning the crawler to keep the winch line spooling correctly on the winch drum. I didn't think about the necessity to keep the line spooling correctly on the drum.
The trees would never be in perfect line with the winch.
This would probably be another issue of safety with a wheel tractor. Pulling to one side could possibly overturn the wheel tractor. A lot of things to think about if I install a winch on the tractor. The John Deere 1984 John Deere 850 I have is very narrow. It would be very easy to tip it over if I installed a winch on it. Running the winch line under the tractor with a block on the front end would maintain proper spooling of the winch line and would probably be safer. I really appreciate the forum as many people have had a lot more experience with installing winches on wheel tractors that Me.
 
Paul,

Did you mount the winch on the Farmall BN so it would swivel to keep the winch line spooling correctly?
 
Yes the swinging draw bar on an 8N sits low and under the rear end so your pretty much pulling in such a way that it would be hard to pull the tractor over unless you where also pulling with the tires at the same time. Common winches now days have a plate that they sit on that is made to fit a common trailer type ball so easy on and off. That dozier looks to be a IH TD6or some such unit. I had a TD-6 years ago and have a Cletrac HG that I need to get back up and running one of these days
 
Old,

Thank you for the information. The dozer is a 1948 TD 6. Have three of these machines. Two have winches one doesn't. Last one I got was given to me to take it away. Took the winch and canopy off of it and and put it on the one in the picture.
Your idea about the drawbar is good. The only concern I have about the 8n is the way they bolt the plate to support the drawbar to the rear of the transmisison. The drawbar support on my 8N is solid but the support on a 1948 Ferguson I have has the bolts broken off in the transmision. Someone really abused it prior to my ownership of it. I don't know how much pull a 2000 lb winch from Harbor Freight would put on the supports. I suspect the support bolts on the Ferguson broke due to someone jerking on something with a chain.
 
I wouldn't pull more than 1000lbs with a 2000lb winch.
The manufactures are rather optimistic with "peak" ratings and while winding the 1st row of cable on the drum.
 
Old,
Great idea about the slip on attachment for a trailer ball. Found one on the internet-This will make attaching the winch much easier and will provide movement for the winch to maintain the correct spooling of the winch line. I thought it wasn't much point to get a winch heavier than 2000 pounds as any heavier winch would slide the 8N. HF has a 3000 pound winch but this would probably cause the tractor to slide. Secondly I don't intend to have any type of slide support mounted to the tractor. Want just enough power to move limbs and small logs.
 
Saved these photos from somewhere, have you thought of a logging arch and winch combination ? 8N is really not designed for logging, but with a winch to hoist small logs and secure same to an arch on wheels, would probably work well if you did not over load it, 8N with a bucket loader, weight in the bucket would balance it better. I have towed a few good size logs with my 850, up hill to my house, has a loader on it, biggest one made the front a little light, but for the most part the loader really balances this tractor out. I rigged off my drawbar, have a counterweight on the back too. In short, these are really not designed for this work, I use bucket forks, and load my F600 with logs, to avoid towing logs now.

Not sure whose tractor this is, Ford with Elenco FWA, think its an 841, nice set up, thought it was interesting and saved the photos.

107332491_o1-1.jpg


107332195_o1-1.jpg


107332990_o1-1.jpg
 



A very good friend of mine told me of a relative of his who logged with N tractors. Said he wore out atleast a half dozen N draging logs . Said the front wheels came off the ground as soon as he started rolling and didn't hit the ground again until he was on the landing.
 
Check at your local farm and home type stores many of them have winches or even an ATV dealer since they use them on the newer ATV all the time
 
Old,
I'm going to the HF store today to buy the winch. Looking on the web found a Dutton Lainson ball adapter plate for electric winches. Part DL24053. I'm sure this is the device You told me about for attaching the winch to the ball with a swivel plate. Looks like I could make one with my oxy/acetylene, grinder, and welder.
 
I have one of those bumpers sold by Yesterdays Tractors for 8N ford tractors. Found that the weights I use on the front of my 1984 JD 850 fit nicely over the top strap on the bumper. Have 4 50 pound weights.
 
I have 2 winches and both came with that plate so when your looking you might keep that in mind so you buy one with it in the box. Common for them to have it with them when new
 
Old,

Thank You for that information. What size winches do you have and what do you mount them on? I may buy the 3000 lb winch. Noticed some favorable customer reviews of the winch on the HF website. Probably could mount it on the trailer ball on my 1966 ford F 100 as well as tractors.
 
One of them is rated at 2000lbs dead pull and 6000 rolling but it is lucky if it can do either an d the other one is rated for 3500lbs dead pull and 7000 lbs rolling and if you double the cable up it goes up to around 7000 lbs dead pull and both came with the ball mount plates. I have one set up so it is mounted to the center of the bed of my Chev flat bed up close to the cab so it is out of the way but still can be used to load tractors etc o a trailer I pull
 
Old,
Thanks for the information.I would use my winch to move piles of branches for
chipping and small logs.I'm retired,old,but like to cut wood with my chainsaw
and splitter
 
I to am retired not that I want to but the doctor forced me to retire due to back, leg and shoulder problems. I can not run a chain saw any more unless it is one of those electric ones. I was just at a farm and home place and looked at a couple winches. I need to replace my oldest one since it died on me a couple months ago. They have one that is a 12,000lbs rolling pull for $169.95 that I think I may buy but will wait till Tuesday or Wednesday till I buy it since those days they have a Vet discount and the other day a old folks discount and I can save a whooping big 5%



wed
 
Old,

The winch I bought from HF is a 3000 lb model. It is a long type like many that are attached to the front of pick up trucks. Other models like ones used on boat trailers were available. They had the type of ball connector plate You told me about. I would prefer to use a ball type mount for the winch I have. I'm not sure if it would work on the winch I bought. What do You think? I could make one from steel I could get at the metal yard.
 
Somebody pinch me.....am I dreaming? Am I looking at a picture of an 8N or even an 800 series for that matter with 4WD? If so, how about some more pictures. This has gotta be good.

Mark
 
So you got one that has the motor part to the side so it might not balance out well with a plate for a ball since one side is heavier then the other side but I have never try to do it either so can not really say yes or no but can say maybe LOL
 
Old,

I'm taking it back today to trade it in for the one that looks like one used on boat trailers. The one that I'll get today has the type of trailer ball connector You told me about. The one I have is a nightmare for wiring. All kinds of wires , solenoid to connect separately, plus the remote which has one wire that is supposed to be switch activiated through the ignition switch. Looked at the product manual for the one I'll get today and looks like most things are inside the housing. Two wires to battery and a connect in remote. I'm going to cut off the ends of the ones that go to the battery and put on heavy clips. Want to get extra wire so I'll be able to use it at either end of my tractor. I'll put a ball hitch on front on my little JD. 8N already has a ball on the bumper assembly. I'm wondering, is this the type of winch You have? The one that pulls from the center and uses the trailer ball hitch? Much better set up that what I have now.
 
The ones I have are sort of a square box with either a switch on the side or a wired remote and pulls from the center. With it sitting on the ball it can swing side to side as needed to keep the cable straight. The one even has a handle on top so a person can pick it up easy and move it. Also the one has battery wires that are a good 15 foot or longer with clips on the end for the battery hook up. Looked at one yesterday and it has the clips for the battery and a wireless remote but not sure I would want that hassle with a remote like that
 
Old,

The one at HF I'll get today is like the one you have. What size wire are used for the 15 foot connector wires You have? 8 or 10? I may have to lengthen the wires. I would like to have 15 feet in length so I will be able to use the winch on the back of my F100.
 
The battery wires are #10 but the remote is probably #14 if even that big. The one I have with a remote is only power in you have to release the clutch and pull it out by hand. There is a relay in side so no need for a real heavy wire for the remote
 
Old,
just exchanged the winch at HF. This one 3000lb has the mount for trailer ball. Much better for my purposes.Wiring for winch is simple.Two plug ins. Battery and remote.I'll
buy wires and battery clips
Thanks again for the information.
 
I was in Wal-Mart today and they had a Reese brand winch for $68.95 that was a 2000lbs pull if it was twice that I would have brought it home with me since I need to replace one of the 2 I have
 
Old,

Sending you pictures of the winch I bought at HF today. I would have preferred to have one like you have that manually pulls out. This one will only go out with power.
I understand the need for power out on the cargo winch I have on my TD 6 with the 5/8 100 foot drum line. A small winch such as I bought today would be simplier and better in my opinion if it spooled out manually.
The plate that goes over the ball is slick. Paid 87 dollars for the winch as I had a 20% off coupon.
I have two ford F 100 pick ups. a 1966 with a 4 speed and 6 cylinder and a 1974 with a v8 and C6 automatic. I like the older picker better. Door panels are metal, dash is metal--Pieces keep falling off the 1974 which has plastic door liners and a plastic dash.
a58525.jpg

a58526.jpg
 
One trick I found it good to do with that plate is put in a bolt in one of the 2 holes that are made for them so as the keep the plate from popping lose for the winch. I have found that they love to pop lose just when you need them to stay put. As for the trucks I have a 1965 Ford 1 ton with factory dump bed I hope to get back up and running. Well it runs but you have to turn the key off to get it to stop. No brakes and it has less then 81K miles on it. 300 6 4 on the floor
 
Old,

Good idea about replacing one of the slip bolts to winch base with a real bolt. I'll do it.
Your 1 ton ford with factory dump sounds like a very interesting project. My ford has the 240 straight 6. Bought whats called a load handler for my 66 ford F 100. Wanted something to move wood out of the bed. Looked at many devices to put a dump on the truck. Truck is not heavy enough built to put one of the electric hydraulic dumps on it. The load handler is manual but works very well for unloading dirt and wood.
Had an old dump truck. A 1941 dodge 2 ton. Sold it due to loose parts in the front end and cost to insure. A dump truck is sure handy. The one you have certainly sounds like something worth repairing.
Just got through adding extensions to the battery wires for the winch. Had Pacific Industrial Supply make up a 20 foot 3/8 choker for Me. Snatch blocks are certainly expensive. Have a couple very large snatch blocks I use with the crawlers. Way too heavy to drag around and use with the wheel tractors.
Pacific Industrial Supply has several small snatch blocks but their cost is something I'll have to think about for awhile.
 
You do not replace one of the 3 slide mount bolts you just put a bolt in one of the 2 open holes on the plate/winch. They leave you 2 so you can lock it tight or let it slide and I have found locking it tight is a good thing.
As for the 1965 Ford at one time it was a conservation truck so it has seen some ruff miles and seems that parts are hard to find for it. It needs a master cylinder and at least one wheel cylinder just to be a good farm truck and also need king pins and rewired if I was to think about putting it on the road
 
Old,

Thanks for information about the bolts. I don't know if the 65 ford 1 ton trucks had a solid axle or oscillating like on my two ford trucks. I've replaced king pins in both my fords and found that having a machine shop fit the brass bushings has resulted in a better repair than using the plastic bushings which I have done several times. I've had a lot of wiring problems with my 74. Main wiring harness burnt up so replaced it . Did my own wiring and Had to use regular gauges as ones ford used stopped working. Installed pertronix electronic ignition units in both my fords. Big improvement over the originial points and condenser.
 
Old,

Thanks for information about the bolts. I don't know if the 65 ford 1 ton trucks had a solid axle or oscillating like on my two ford trucks. I've replaced king pins in both my fords and found that having a machine shop fit the brass bushings has resulted in a better repair than using the plastic bushings which I have done several times. I've had a lot of wiring problems with my 74. Main wiring harness burnt up so replaced it . Did my own wiring and Had to use regular gauges as ones ford used stopped working. Installed pertronix electronic ignition units in both my fords. Big improvement over the originial points and condenser.
 
1 ton has the solid axle across the front of it. Battery box is in the floor board on the passengers side. Duals use a 6 bolt rim and 2 of the ones I have are bad so need to find or fix the bad ones where the bolt holes got sort of messed up when we had a heavy load on and loose rims
 
I personally like the solid axle over the oscillating axles like on my two ford pick ups. Seems all the heavier larger trucks have the solid front. The 1941 dodge 2 ton I sold had a solid axle. Very hard to get parts for the dodge. Brake parts were especially hard to get.
Another reason I sold it.
 
It appears Washington State doesn't salt their roads.
Our 1971 Ford pickup was so corroded by salt that by 1978 a cat could escape from the cab. With the doors shut and the windows rolled up.
 
Winters were very severe in Washington State back in the early 1950's. Temperatures down in the teens and a lot of snow. Climate has really changed here. Winters have continued to be very mild for many years, a few days of temperatures down in the teens and a little snow. Major highways--I-5-- are rarely salted.
I remember these changes in my lifetime. Back in the 1930's a large lake in a state park on Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands froze so hard that I've seen pictures of old chevrolet cars on the thick ice on the lake. This was a few years before my time. I bought a 59 chevrolet that spent most of its time in Minnesota. It was really eaten up from salt on the roads.
 
I have another truck I would love to get back up and running but to find parts for it is a very hard thing to do. It is a 1963 Diamond-T 990 road tractor that has been converted into a dump truck. I blew #2 piston and sleeve out of it and so far not found a replacement
 
Old,

Diamond T, that's a truck name I haven't heard in a long time. I worked in a small sawmill a long time ago. Seems he had a Diamond Reo? What brand engine does your Diamond -T have in it?
You have some real interesting projects. Your ford dump truck would be high on my list. Parts might be available for your Diamond-T engine but would probably be very expensive. Both projects sound very interesting to Me.
Projects that get my attention are farm tractors. Last one I bought , 1 year ago, was a 1946 2N. Did some road work for a person and some cash for the tractor. Had to have a machine shop rebore the block and install .090 sleeves . Parts for the older ford tractors are readily available and prices are reasonable.
What is your opinion of pulling with my new winch on the front of my 2N and 8N tractors with the new winch. Would like to pull with the winch from the front of my 1984 850 John Deere. I have some concerns about doing damage to where the front end assemblies bolt to the engine casting.
I'm going to put this question on the YT forum and see what others think about pulling from the front of these tractors.
 
As for pulling from the front I do not think you wil hurt any thing since you will move the tractor before any harm would be likely to happen to them.
As for the Diamond-T I have it has a a 220 Cummins engine in it and ya I can or could find some parts for it but would have to do all 6 cylinders at a tune of $500 per cylinder and that is just the sleeves no gaskets or any thing else so would be looking at $5000 plus by the time it was all said and done.
As for tractors I have close to 30 of them ya 40% are just parts but I do not believe in scrapping something that might be worth saving
 
Old,
Sending a couple of pictures of one of the TD 6 crawlers that was given Me. It was back in the hills where it had been parked for years. Owner had not been able to get it running. Got it going, had it hauled home, removed the winch and canopy and put it on another TD 6 I have. A real project. Gave up on it once but after awhile started on it again. Took about 6 months to put it back in shape.
a58575.jpg

a58576.jpg

a58577.jpg
 
I had a TD-6 many years ago but sold it back a decade or so ago due to the fact it was so bad off that the engine would have needed a total rebuild plus a number of other things. I do have a Cletrac HG that one of these days I'll get back to work on I hope
 

Old,
Yes, the td6 diesels are expensive to rebuild
Last td 6 I rebuilt cost me 250/hole.Had to buy from Case International
Head gasket was $100
Didn't buy main bearings as old ones were ok.New ones were 250/each
5 mains in the td6
 

Old,
Yes, the td6 diesels are expensive to rebuild
Last td 6 I rebuilt cost me 250/hole.Had to buy from Case International
Head gasket was $100
Didn't buy main bearings as old ones were ok.New ones were 250/each
5 mains in the td6
 
I do still have the owners manual for the TD-6 sort of funny but then on the other hand I collect manuals since I have found by doing so it help me help people on here
 
Old,

You mentioned that one of your electric winches spools out freely. The one I have has to spool out under power. I would like to have it spool out freely--Looks like it has some type of clutch brake. The way I do things it probably doesn't make a lot of difference if it takes time to unwind the winch. The winch on my TD 6 will unwind freely however the weight of the 5/8 main line makes it easier to unwind it under power. Winch speed on the Cargo winch is quick. What is the brand of the winch you have that unwinds freely? Thought you found a way to release the winch brake.
 
I do not know the brand name of either one and I know the one is pure China junk. Either way they both have a knob on the side that you can turn and by loosening it up you can then free wheel the cable out. I have more then just to 2 but have not even tried to use the other ones since I have not taken the time to mount them and the other 2 I have one will free wheel and the other is 100% power out. I mounted it then found it was more or less a joke because it is over size but low power as in 2000lbs
 
Old,
Y
I like the idea of the knob to loosen winch.Saw the winch at Walmart for 69 dollars on the web.Walmart here does not carry the winch
 
I checked both my local Wal-Mart stores ad they both had the $69 one on hand but that was it and when I buy another one I want it to be at least 4000lbs rolling if not more and then I will add a snatch block so as to double what is can really do
 
Old,
I have two snatch blocks that I use with the crawlers .Two heavy to use with my new electric.Bought a small block at HF
Have to unbolt the hook to get it on the line.My new chocker is a 3/8 20 footer.Have 50 feet of 1/2 with a hook in one end and an eye in the other
What type of snatch blocks,/size do you have? Some of the logs are over 50 feet from where I will position the tractor for pulling.
 
It is a small one that is very close to what is on some com-a-longs but heavier built and you do have to unscrew a part to put it on the cable. I just install it and leave it and that way I can use it single or double line. I have seen them sold at a lot of Farm and home stores so you might look there.
 

I bought one from HF.I think it's similar to the one You have.I thought about leaving it on the cable
 
Old,

Sending a picture of a large snatch block that I use with the crawlers. The block is very heavy probably 60-70 lbs. I'm looking forward to using my new winch and a much smaller block.
a58955.jpg
 
Old,

I used to leave the two ones I have next to the garage in an unsecured place. Pacific Industrial Supply here in Seattle sells snatch blocks that size.
Did You know that snatch blocks that big sell for over $500.00? I now keep mine in a locked garage. We were in the construction business years ago. My Father bought the blocks. Everything is excavators today. Machines so powerful that they tear huge roots and stumps apart. We used to use them after blasting stumps then pulled the sections of stumps left after blasting with the blocks and TD 9 International. The TD 9 was new in 1954. As You can see the blocks have been around for a long time.
 
Did not know one as big as I have was worth that much but then it is old and not in real good shape either. But where it is it would take a person who knew it was there to get it since my drive way is a mile long. Ya I understand the big track hoes they have now days when I was forced to retire I was driving a dump truck for a living and had more then one load loaded with a track hoe big enough to it only took one bucket to fill the truck
 
Old,

Several of my friends are in the construction business and I asked them about use of blocks in their business. Told Me that they never use blocks anymore. Sometimes I know I live in the past. The snatch blocks I have are probably valuable to only Me. The price of scrap metal is high. Would imagine anyone taking the blocks would sell them for scrap. My place is a little different than yours. Have an 800 foot road into the place. Have an outside light on the power pole.
 
I looked at a couple more winches today and the one rated for the pull I want or close to it is a wireless remote which I do not like and the next one close to it is $400 where as the wireless remote one is $169 and is rated for 11,000lbs rolling pull so guess I will keep looking a bit more
 
I've noticed a big difference in prices
of winches with same capacity 100-400 dollars.Ones priced under 170 appeal to me
 
Old,

Certainly a big difference in prices of winches based on manufacturer. Warn and dutton up in the 3 -400 dollar range .Similiar one by load handler I bought from HF was 105 less a 20 percent coupon. Reese has some good prices on winches. I just thought of another good use for my electric winch. I use a comealong hooked to the front of the bed of my 66 f 100. I like old plows and have used the come along to pull the plows out of barns up ramps onto the bed of my 66. Quite a project with a comealong. Picked up a 3 point drag blade for the tractors and loaded it the same way. Rather than drive my riding lawnmowers up the ramps I'll use the winch to pull them up ramps into the bed. The quick hitch for the winch you introduced me too is the best. Starting tomorrow I'm going to the place where my projects are kept. First project is to put a receiver hitch on the front of my pick up for the winch to mount on the trailer ball. Snow here today so garage projects are good this time of the year in this part of the country.
 
If you have the factory bed on your truck just make a part that drops in the stack pockets with a heavy beam across them and then mount a ball on it. BTDT on my old 1969 Chev till the rear coil arm broke and I junk the truck because of that
 
Old,

Good idea about making a part that drops in the stack pockets with a heavy beam with a ball attached. I have two square pieces of tube in each pocket now. Have a piece of square tube across them and a hand winch mounted at cab height. I use it to pull my 12 foot boat up on the bed of the truck. Have a receiver hitch on the back with a T shaped piece in the receiver hitch. Have rollers on the T part and the aluminum boat comes right up out of the lake or ground and into the truck bed. Think I'll do what you suggest and mount the electric winch onto a beam going across the pieces in the stack pockets.
What I built ins't strong enough to support the electric winch at cab height. It would be ok for the boat but need to put it lower for pulling things I collect like steel plows into the bed. Sending a picture of a snatch block sold at Pacific Industrial Supply.
a59035.jpg
 
Back when I did the stack pocket thing I used a 2X2 square tube that was a 1/4 inch thick and then welded a piece of 1/2 inch plate to it for the ball to sit in. Worked well and the stack pockets held up real well
 
Old,

I bought square tubing from NAPA auto parts to make the first frame for the hand winch on my 1966 ford F 100. Too light metal: had to braze it as welding burnt holes in the metal. Bought 3/16 steel tubing to replace the frame I build with steel from NAPA.I haven't replaced it as it works ok for moving the aluminum boat. I could use a piece of the 3/16 square and weld a plate to it for the winch. Would have to bolt the 3/16 to what is in the stake pockets now due to the lightness of the metal. The stake pockets on the 1966 F 100 are in good shape so I will do what You did.
 
I bet you will find 3/16 square tube is not heavy enough for what you need and it will bend in the center and the winch will follow what your trying to pull if you get into a hard pull. I would use nothing less then 1/4 inch but I do like to over due things so as to be sure things hold up. Learned years ago over kill if by far better then under kill and having things brake right when you need them to hold up
 

Old,

I agree.I'll get 1/4 or 5/16. Learned that 3/4 is minimum size of steel when Making attachments for the 3 point on the farm tractors
 
Again I am luck I have a large scrap pile of all sorts of iron stuff so most things I build all I have to do is go out and look and 80% of the time I have something in that pile that will work. Been piling things up now for the past 30 years and the pile for some odd reason has gotten very big over the years
 
Old,

I too have been collecting things for 30 years plus. A lot of my saved metal went into building attachments for the three points on my tractors. Mainly carrying things for wood, rocks, and made one to fit my shop crane.Have it mounted on the three point of my 8N The last project was building a fixed thumb for my 1957 case backhoe. Had to buy most of the metal as I didn't have anything in my metal pile that was adequate.
Have the receiver hitch almost finished for the front of my ford 66 pick up. The winch will mount to this hitch using the quick attach feature of the winch.
 
Ya over the years I have built many things fr the 3 point system and then turned around and set them up so I could also use them on the loader bucket which when I did that to m y3 point boom pole made it easy to build my last building. It let me lift the steel beams up about 20 foot in the air which as a tad bit scarey also
 
Old,

Finished building trailer ball connection points for the winch on the front of my JD tractor and ford pick up
Got a chance to try the Everlast Welder I bought some time ago. Everlast 200 amp DC 60 percent duty cycle. Welder is about 1/3 the size of my older 225 lincoln buzz box. i really like the welder.
 
Old,e
I wasn't able to try the winch. Too much snow and cold weather. Made two connection points for the trailer ball connector plate on the winch. One on the tractor and one on the ford pick up. The power out and power in feature of the winch is good but this particular winch will not allow a person to pull the winch cable out manually.Bought the 3000 lb. model from HF today which is a solid mount. This model has the free spool out feature. It was on sale plus the 20 percent discount coupon I had.
Untitled URL Link
 
Your link did not work. One of these days I guess I should see if I could start getting the harbor freight catalogs again and see what they have
 
Old,

Do you have a HF in your area? Have one close to my place. Its in Bellevue, Washington. I think You would like reviewing things HF has for sale. Just finished building a mount for the winch I just bought.
A lot of time for Me building a place to attach the electrical controls for the winch.
Solenoid, remote electrical control. I think some of the other manufacturers of winches do a better job of putting the total winch together with its electrical controls. I enjoy projects such as I did today. I get a lot of flyers from HF . The flyers generally have the 20 percent off coupons and generally much better prices on things HF sells. Stores have always matched internet sales. I joined their Inside Track Club. Sometimes it helps but not very often. I'll check what link I sent-I didn't know I sent you a link.
 
Old,
The winch I bought was the 68145 model which is 3000 lb. model. Same pull as the quick connect winch I bought first.
It was on sale for 129.00 and I was able to use the 20 percent off coupon which came off the 129.00
 
No harbor fright places with in 100 mile of me. In the years past I have gotten a few things from them and not ever had any problems with there stuff but they took a month or more to ship things to me
 
Northern tool and equipment is another place I have purchased a few things. I've ordered a few things from them. Have to pay shipping as their store is a long ways from where I live. Their products seem to be more expensive that products at Harbor Freight.
I've had good luck with things I've purchased at H.F.
I still think the winch I bought with the ready connect to a trailer ball is the best deal for having a winch compact and all put together.
 
I still haven't attached the winch to my 8N. Built a trailer ball hitch connection for the front of my John Deere 850. The 850 has better gearing than my 8N. Some 8N tractors have sherman reduction transmissions in them which I
think makes them more usable.
 
Ya off and on I get a catalog from northern tool but have never ordered any thing from them. My dad when he was still alive did order stuff from them from time to time. I'm just not one that likes to Oder much since I like to be able to look things over before I buy them
 
Old,

Just finished custom fitting the wires with the winch to fit my use. It will be on the front of one of the farm tractors or on my 66 ford F 100. Had to build a support for the solenoid, remote connections for using the winch 10 feet from the winch and the remote for using the winch right at the winch.
I'm glad I grew up in a time if you didn't fix it you didn't have it. Improvising is another thing that there was a lot of with making the winch fit.
 
Hi Old,
I've visited HF the last couple of days. I've been tempted to purchase a haul master winch-2000 lb model- It doesn't come with the quick connect and they are closing out the model which is 39997 $39.00. Have to make or order the quick connect plate.I decided not to purchase as I already have the Load Handler Model 96455 which is the 3000 lb. model with the trailer ball quick connect. The one I just bought is the 3000 lb solid mount 68145 model. I wanted your opinion regarding the pulling power of both winches. The 96455 which is a 3000 model and easier to use than the 68145 model Easier to use as the 96455 has free spool feature, higher pullling speed and planentary gears. Would they both be equal in pulling power since they both are 3000 lb winches? I looked at warn winches and they have planentary gears. A lot of money for a warn winch.
I don't know if planentary gears makes one winch better that the other. Looks good .
When I get back to my place I'll try both winches to see if there is a difference. Have an old TD 6 which is in pieces--Good place to see how both winches perform. Engine,and track frame are off the TD 6 so it definitely is not the weight it used to be.Good place to try the snatch block.
 
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