O/T what kind of lubricant you on a re-build

Anonymous-0 · Jan 5, 2012

Ive seen some people use gease, and some people use oil. Which is better? Ive always used clean motor oil, but if it sits a while its dry...

DeltaRed · Jan 5, 2012

LubriPlate#105 white 'assembly grease'

Lumpy · Jan 5, 2012

Assembly grease. Can buy it at any auto parts store.

Errin OH · Jan 5, 2012

Ditto, but I wipe cylinders down with new motor oil prior to piston install.

INCase · Jan 5, 2012

AMSOIL has a new assembly lube out now as well.

BCnT · Jan 5, 2012

white lithium assembly lube [grease] and since my rebuilds generally get fired up within a couple days i prefer to spray cylinders and pistons with WD40...it gives initial lubrication and burns off quickly so rings "seat" faster...been doing it that way for 45+ years and aint failed yet.

Eric in IL · Jan 5, 2012

Lubriplate assembly grease on bearings and vegetable (cooking) oil on sleeves and ring grooves sparingly.

old · Jan 5, 2012

I have always use STP oil treatment when I rebuild and engine and have yet to ever have a problem with the engine I do that too. It stays where you put it and is a very good lube and if you do not get to start the engine for months or weeks it is still there and still doing its job

MeanGene1 · Jan 5, 2012

Any good parts store will stock dedicated assembly lube, usually in a tube like Sta-Lube etc. That with a little motor oil on top is slick as snot on a doorknob. I also used to use white grease with oil on it, but quit as I learned that it doesn't dissolve in the oil very fast with "clots" floating around for a while, and if the engine sits for a while is separates out into oil and solids. The last thing I would use is an old gimmick oil-thickener like STP, the parts need to able to rotate freely while being protected, not glued together with honey- might as well assemble it with peanut butter. BTW, the 427 Ford I assembled a couple weeks ago with Sta-Lube/oil only took 7 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the entire short block assembly, and I could easily turn the crank by itself with one finger and my thumb

teddy52food. · Jan 5, 2012

If it isn"t started soon, the cooking oil will turn into varnish. A man oiled his gun with it & the next year when he was going to use it, the bolt was tight. Took a lot of soaking to get it loose again.

El Toro · Jan 5, 2012

I use lubri-plate on the bearing inserts. I use a new sash brush to coat the crankshaft journals,
pistons and cylinder walls with clean engine oil. I also used a pressure vessel to prelube the engine before startup. Hal

Anonymous-0 · Jan 5, 2012

Looks like from all the posts you can use about anything as long as you use something.

Texasmark1 · Jan 5, 2012

Lubriplate 105. That's what it is specifically made for. Most all auto parts carry it in a plastic tube. It's not grease and not oil. It's in-between. Put on all bearing surfaces, cam lobes, main and rod bearings, push rod ends..... Pre load the lifters by submerging in oil till you can't pump the piston on them any longer then install.

Then fill the crankcase with some not too good oil for the break-in and pull out the distributor and spin the oil pump till the rocker arms are puking oil; install the spark plugs, hook everything up and .......ready to fire her up.

Mark

bob15 · Jan 5, 2012

Everything but the cam is coated with STP, mainly for rust protection. I use Isky Rev Lube on the cam and lifters for break-in protection.
Isky Rev Lube

Anonymous-0 · Jan 5, 2012

i still have some OLD slick 50 thats what i like

O/T what kind of lubricant you on a re-build

Anonymous-0

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DeltaRed

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Lumpy

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Errin OH

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INCase

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BCnT

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Eric in IL

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old

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MeanGene1

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teddy52food.

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El Toro

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Anonymous-0

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bob15

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Anonymous-0

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