Air Lines for Tractor Shop

2510Paul

Well-known Member
I would like to put in some air lines in my tractor shop. What do you recommend?
Black Pipe?
Copper?
Northern Tool RapidAIR, Item #20921?
Other?
I certainly would appreciate all comments.
Thanks. Paul
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:57 12/29/11) I would like to put in some air lines in my tractor shop. What do you recommend?
Black Pipe?
Copper?
Northern Tool RapidAIR, Item #20921?
Other?
I certainly would appreciate all comments.
Thanks. Paul

Black pipe if you want to be 100% sure of it.
 
I plumbed with 5/8 rigid copper tubing. Went with that due to the ease of joints. Didn't want to trust plastic with compressed air even though the Sch 40 would withstand a lot more pressure than I would be using.

Thing I didn't like about it is when I had an air leak, with fittings all over the place, it was a real chore finding it. If you felt like spending the bucks you could put a shut off valve at each QD outlet and that should help.

I used the centrifugal type of air filter that requires no filter. You will need an oiler for some tools; I didn't have one, just oiled my air tools when I felt they needed it with Marvel Air Tool Oil...same company that makes Marvel Mystery oil.

I used roll up self storage rubber hoses for the areas where I worked "around things"; like where you had a vehicle and wanted to air up 4 tires, or you were welding on something and wanted to blow it off before you primed it.

HTH,

Mark
 
I had a black pipe system in a old shop, it was royal pain to install, not cheap, and later you will have a rust problem.... fine particles passing through.

My current shop is PVC, it has been fine. However everyone warns about it shattering. I have not worried about that too much, it is inside the walls.

I'm building a new shop, been looking at PEX-AL-PEX with is rated for gasses. Compressed etc.. I may go that route with my new shop next year.

One thing I did that worked well. I ran the PVC up and down the walls, through the attic etc.. but anywhere it came out of the walls I very securely fastened it, double clamps etc, then transistioned to steel and secured it to the studd. Made it very strong for the abuse of connecting and disconnecting air hose's.

L.
L.
 
I really wonder about using PEX. It sounds like a good idea. Run a line for each drop. The extra runs would be like extra air storage.

And if a line has trouble, shut it off at the distribution manifold.
 
Pvc the 400 psi stuff goes together easy cheap . in 20 years I have had two problems with it .Once had a torch too close once something big hit it.Paul
 
iT'S HARD TO BEAT HIGH PRESSURE pvc TYPE SYSTEM IF YOUR CODE ALLOWS.
cHEAP AND EASY TO INSTALL AND EASY TO REPAIR IF DAMAGED. HAD MINE FOR OVER 7 YEARS AND NOT ONE PROBLEM.
;ARRY NEIL
 
I'd avoid PVC, if you are the one in 100 where it breaks from old age or cold or oils weakening it or whatever, it has a tendency to shatter into 1000s of pieces and become shrapnel driven by 150psi air pressure. That is _not_ a good thing. And has and does happen often enough to avoid using pvc.....

If it shatters with water, it breaks apart because water does not compress. With air it becomes explosive like a birdshot load. Not good.


--->Paul
 
The northern tool air line kits work great. B uy some extra fittings when you get it. The kits are as close to "ready to use" as is possible.
 
My shop is small enough that a single 50ft. hose can reach everything. I wonder if using the cheap air hose would work for longer runs. Make up the ends with threaded connections instead of quick connects and then transtion to something rigid where you will be using quick connects and water separators and such.
 
I've got black pipe in one shop. It works well. The other shop I just run hose from the compressor. I've got a 50 section of 1/2 inch hose and a 25 foot section of 3/8 that are hard connected. Then I can add sections of 3/8s as needed. Way cheaper and easier than pipe.
 
I used 3/4 copper pipe, there are 2 different grades, one being thicker than the other (can"t remember the letters, L & M???), use the heavier one, Works great, easy to install and add on to afterwards, no corrosion issues, doesn"t shatter like PVC and 3/4 inch gives high air flow (more than twice that of 1/2 inch...

Remember the bigger the pipe the longer run you can have with the same loss of air pressure... if you use big impact wrenches or similar high air use tools, it will make a noticeable difference! And if you can, use larger quick connects too and shorter rubber air lines...
 
Cheap hose is just that .. I have two of them so I can reach my carport if needed from my back garage.
Very hard to deal with , hard to coil them because they are stiff, not as pliable as the better ones.
If you use it in a short run.. it tends to make loops that will trip you because it sometimes gets twisted, and dont lay flat on floor.
 
paul has it exactly right. No PVC, ever, ever, it is a bomb, compressed air, jsut waiting to explode and accelerate pieces all across the shop.
 
Don"t know if it"s a fact, but I"ve heard that the galvanize can flake off and get into your air supply.
 
I just used PEX. I put up 300 ft of line in about 4 hours. It takes about 15 minutes to add another drop if I need one.

Previous shop was 1/2 this size and I used copper - back when it was cheap. There was no way I could afford copper in the new shop.
 
Everbody says no-no to pvc. Been in the FIL's shop for 15 years, never a problem. I donnt think CPVC will shatter, but dont know about its PSI capabilities.
 
We have got two rather large shops and codes here allow for some kind of grey, real thick PVC.
At ever drop we go thru a t two inches lower put a drain cock like a radiaator has. Put the quick connect in the out portion of the t. Have never had moisture or cracking . I think if sone right and the correct materials used pvc is hard to beat. I think the right stuff is rated to 400 lb.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I had never heard of the PEX although it sounds like I should have given it's applications. I did a little looking but did not find a pressure rating for it. Does anyone know what the pressure rating is for PEX-al-PEX or are there muliple ratings available? Thanks again. Paul.
 
I've been using PVC for more than 30 years. I normally have the air pressure regulated down to 100 psi before it goes to PVC and have not any real problem. I have worked in other peoples shops that had PVC that did not have the outlets secured very well and when someone pulls on an air hose they break the line. It just makes a lot of noise. It doesn't explode with shrapnel. I'm sure if someone had some aged pipe and was running an excess of 200 psi it could explode with shrapnel but my compressor cuts off at 175.
 

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