Changing Oil in my Ford 2N

2NDave

New User
I received alot of comments going to 10W30 from using straight 30W. My question is now that it has been running non detergent oil, will it be OK to switch to conventional detergent oil?
 
Morning Dave: Been a good season i hope, i brought back some black licroce for the locals, they now know what " good stuff taste's like"
Anyway, your question is relative to my 48 ford truck, non-degerent oil as the filter is not exactly efficient as todays pressurized systems, and if i was to switch to degerent type, i am told by someone older and has rebuilt them many times[ flatheads] that the sludge in the engine will lossen up and mix with the oil, plug passageways/filter etc.
His word were that i might as well take the optional filter off and run it as orginal, if i switched to detergent oil, as it and/or the supply line would be plugged.
With the non stuff the sludge collects and settles in the base pan, with a good engine[ rings,seals internally]there is little dirt/blow by/sludge made to worry about, a worn engine just needs the oil pan checked/cleaned more often. Hope it helps
been running straight 30 weight, non detergent for the 10 years i have had it, god only knows what got put in it before me:)
take care and have a good one.
Phil
 
Hafta disagree with Phil's answer. Detergent oil doesn't clean or loosen years of sludge, it just does a much better job of keeping dirt in suspension so it can be filtered better.

Do your tractor a favor and switch to oil made with technology from this century...It's much superior to that non-detergent straight weight stuff. Search the archives here on this subject....you'll find enough arguments on both sides of the fence to keep yourself entertained for days.

Happy New Year !
 
Thousands of tractors the period of yours are now using the new 10-30,10-40 and they are fine quit listening to old wives tales. I go on many tractor rides with the new oils and 60yrs pluss tractors some rides are three days and a total of 175 pluss mi long been doing it for yrs and never have any problems with the new oils just do it.
 
We run Rotella 15w40 in about everything, gas or diesel except for newer cars. I've seen other folks run it in flatheads, large diesels, and even modern gas motors for lots of hours with no problem.
 
Morning again: you can forget the opening comment, about candy, got the wrong dave:)
but i do agree with the other"s comments, just that"s what is working for me, and what works for others is just as good, i am just a thought, not a expert and don"t want to be:).
As long as you keep it clean and full, keep on tractoring.
 

Has it always been run with Non-Detergent oil..??

If it has an oil filter, I would certainly change to Detergent oil and it the temps will get below Zero, run 5-20 or 5-30..
A good option would be to add a quart if Rislone to the engine oil for Winter..
When the oil looks dirty, change it..
Detergent oil actually only holds the engine contaminates in suspension, to help keep an engine clean..
Rislone will only slowly remove existing sludge..
For a quicker cleaning, use a Quart of kerosene to the engine oil and run it during the Winter Months..changing the oil (and Filter) as it gets
dirty enough to change..
Eventually, the oil will stay clean longer..

Ron..
 

Has it always been run with Non-Detergent oil..??

If it has an oil filter, I would certainly change to Detergent oil and it the temps will get below Zero, run 5-20 or 5-30..
A good option would be to add a quart if Rislone to the engine oil for Winter..
When the oil looks dirty, change it..
Detergent oil actually only holds the engine contaminates in suspension, to help keep an engine clean..
Rislone will only slowly remove existing sludge..
For a quicker cleaning, use a Quart of kerosene to the engine oil and run it during the Winter Months..changing the oil (and Filter) as it gets
dirty enough to change..
Eventually, the oil will stay clean longer..
Actually, if you look at the original tractor Manual, it will tell you to use oil appropriate to ambient temps..
Some even called for 10 WT in very Cold Climates..

Ron..
 
I would not worry too much about using the new oils in the tractor. If you think yours is sludged up flush it out before changing it over. We used to do this all of the time on the older tractors that had been abused with no maintenance.

How I have always flushed an engine oil galley. Drain the engine oil. I usually leave the old oil filter on. Put one quart of new oil back in the engine. Fill it up to the full mark with kerosene. Start the engine up and let it run at fast idle under no load until it has reached operating temperature. Then drain the mixture out of the engine. I repeat this until I get clean looking oil/k-1 mix back out. Then just install a new filter and fill with whatever new oil you want to use.

I have even had good luck on newer cars with rattling valve lifters getting quieter after doing this. I had a 1952 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup and the operators manual said to do this every ten thousand miles.
 
As hard as it is to find non-detergent oil these days, I'll bet your tractor has already seen quite a bit of detergent oil. If in doubt just change your oil a little sooner. You can also you one of the "engine flush" additives prior to your first oil change to loosen things up.

It seems to me that switching from non-detergent to detergent oil would be less of an issue with a flathead than a newer overhead valve engine. Overhead valve engines get a lot of sludge buildup under the valve cover where a detergent oil is likely to loosen it up. Sludge in a flathead will end up in the pan and should stay there.
 

Dave, you could go back about five pages on the N forum and review a five page thread on this subject from a week ago.
 

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