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Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Product Code: ZRTQT-EA


AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage.

I am interested in a oil to replace the thicker 15w-40 oil I have been using in my Massey 65. It is a recent rebuild that carries 30 psi at idle. I am thinking that is a little high and would like to start using a quality synthetic. This one appears to have a good Zinc package and excellent corrosion/moisture resistance. My ride sets most of the time and is fired up mainly for halloween, christmas, and snow removal. This one seems to be a good cross between viscosity and diesel style additives. Amzoil also sells a 10w-30 diesel spec. oil

Any thoughts?

Aaron

I've got dads old Ferguson F40. It was bought new in 1957. Dad was a believer in Pennzoil products. He used 30W Pennzoil until the mid 60's when he started using Pennzoil 10W30. A few years ago, I switched to Pennzoil 15/40. The tach quit about 10 years ago. It had logged well over 20,000 hours to that point. Still gets used occasionally, mostly raking hay, ect. (light duty) But mostly, it just sits in the shed for months on end.

Oil pressure still same as it always has been, starts good, runs well, no smoke, good power.

Similar experiences with a few other tractors that have been around here for 40 or more years.

Based on reality, not "theory", I'm sticking with what works. That being a good grade/brand of conventional oil, keeping filters changed on regular intervals, and NOT spending ridiculous amounts on "miracle oils" that just don't seem to have any real world advantages other than to serve as a debate topic. YMMV

Switching to the 15w-40 was a good move as you kept the additives as they were being phased out of the gas-specced oils. I could certainly keep the 15w-40 but I don't think I need an oil that thick. Most of the "work" it does is in the winter months. I was hoping for a diesel specced 5 or 10w-30 available locally but haven't been able to find it. I am probably splitting hairs as it will likely outlive me.

Aaron

Concidering your usage, you should be more concerned with condensation than camshaft and lifter wear in your slow speed industrial engine.

Synthetic oil is an expensive over kill if one wishes to change the oil often to remove the condensation.

I vote for 15W40 diesel spec oil. The oil pressure relief valve will regulate oil presssure.

Dean

My Dad's 1976? 255D owners manual said to use 20W up to about 90 degrees. Am pretty sure TSC has it for diesel use. He went to 30W diesel when Valvoline stopped carrying it around here. Have never thought much of snake-amsoil, a marketing ploy that to me is way too expensive. Your mileage may vary.

I have only seen diesel rated 10w-30 at a acase/ih dealership

Rotella T is available in 10-30
NAPA special order and elsewhere
will do what you want for less money
Ron

That's probably what I am looking for. 10 bucks a quart is a little steep. I wouldn't be opposed to a 5w-30. I do not use this thing enough to warrant synthetic and drain clean oil out once a year. Condensation would be my biggest concern. That and my flat tappet cams needs...

Thanks

Aaron

Diesel spec oil will be fine for your low spring pressure flat tappet cam and lifters.

It isn't a 60s vintage muscle car engine.

Dean

Mobil 1 5W-40 is rated for diesels ($55/gallon). Not sure how the price compares to Amzoil.

Rick

15W40 is what SHOULD be in it to start with. If you keep it inside or use a block heater on cold days then it's a no brainer. The only reason I'd consider 10W30 is if it had to cold start without assistance below about 10F... I do a certain amount of oil shopping at Walmart in the cheap section... Just make sure it's a diesel rated oil.

Rod

What Speciffically does "Diesel Oil" have as a additive in it that different from Regular Motor Oil? Thanks Larry

Diesels need the ZDDP to protect the pump drives and piston pins. In gas engines, it is used to protect flat tappet camshafts. It used to be in regular motor oils until they figured out it was hurting O2 sensors and catty converters. Those of us with flat tappet cams should either use a supplement or a diesel specced oil.

I found Rotella 10w-30 and a 5w-40 at Walmart this evening. The 10w-30 was 16 a gallon. The 5w-40 was more iirc.

Aaron

up till recently, diesel oils were the best oil money could by. they had the best additives and largest amount of additives. these include anti wear, anti coking, additives to fight acids, additives to suspend dirt, and about everything you could put in oil.. So...buying a diesel rated oil would give you the best oil that money could buy..

gas rated oils had little to small amounts of additives as they usually were change sooner, work less and and didnt have to fight the extra soot.

however... when the diesel started to get converters in them,, the diesel oil is now cut back a bit so its not quite as good as it use to be. thats because the additives that fight heat and wear can and will actually coat the catylitic converters and reduce the heat and render them usless... so...

use to be.. a diesel rated oil would be the best you could buy anywhere and ironically at even half the price of over rated gasolene oils..

Now the oils are still very good but not quite as good as they used to be.

not to say you cant buy good gas rated oils, but they by nature dont have to have all the hd additives that a diesel rated oil had to have.

Bill pretty well covered it... The main thing they've removed from newer diesel rated oils is ZDDP or zinc which is the primary antiwear additive because of it's affect on particulate filters and the new exhaust catylist systems on diesels. That said... it's still your best bet for good antiwear package along with a pile of detergents to keep the engine clean and dirt suspended. That would be the main component you will miss in some measure in a gasoline rated oil. It's also probably one of the more important ones you need with an engine that sits most of the time and probably never really works hard enough to get good and hot to evaporate the condensation out.
I'm still a firm believer that if you bought cheap dino oil at walmart and changed it twice as often as a synthetic... you would save money and do your engine more good.

Rod