L59A Woods belly mower

I recently replaced the blades on the belly mower for the first time since I got the tractor/mower. I figured it couldn't bee too hard for a "first timer", so I installed all the blades the same way (with the cut going counter clock-wise. Noticed the center blade wasn't cutting like it should. Looking at the spindles closer, both side blades rotate counter clock-wise, while the middle blade rotates clock-wise. Can I just "flip" the blad over to get the cut going the correct way? Not sure if this would work right, since the blade may then sit up higher?? Did I not get a correct center blade when I got the blades? ANY help is greatly appreciated so I don't have to keep making a "double pass" to get the grass all cut down level in one pass??

You better look aaaaaaagain as one spindle cannot turn different than the other two as the same belt runs them all as it goes the same direction on all spindles. You must have a right blade on a left spindle.Check the cutting edge of all three blades.

Say Pard,

Like Gene says, all spindles spin the same direction and usually are set up to turn counter-clockwise. Are ya sure that belt is threaded correctly?

Don't know what tractor you're mounted on, but it sure sounds like you're coming around that center pulley on the wrong side.

There should be no twists in the belt at the cutter head itself. All the "twisting" is done between the mower unit proper and the tractor drive pulley.

Just tryin' to help,

Allan

I think Allan's right, all turn CC as viewed from above. The significant twist is on the long runs between the deck's center spindle and the adjustable spindles at the rear of the tractor, which route the belt 90 degrees up to the drive spindle. Shouldn't be any twist between deck spindles. I think one long run has 1/2 twist, the other has 1 1/2 twist. Think there's also 1/2 twist in one run between an adjustable rear spindle and the drive spindle. Check the manual section of the Woods website, pick the manual for your specific mower/tractor combo, and check the routing diagram. My 3 blades are identical, not L, R, or center specific. They also step down about 6 inches out from the center hole, would be difficult to mount them upside down, IE: backwards. If/when you have to re-route the belt, I've found it easiest to start by making the initial wrap around the bottom center-pulley groove, out to the first side spindle and keep going in that direction, following the diagram. I've also found it helpful to loosen the adjustable rear spindles to where they can be adjusted with the tap of a hammer while routing the belt. When done routing, I tighten the rear spindle that tensions downward first and then use the scissors jack from a car between the drawbar and the upward tensioning spindle. I get that belt darn tensioned before tighening the spindle down, this will greatly increase belt life. If you're an engineer and want a better definition of "darn tensioned", look in the manual. I periodically re-set this tension with the jack, occassionally having to move the downward tensioning spindle. If the belt hasn't broken by the time both adjustments are maxed, just run it till it breaks. Before I adopted this method, I'd only get a year or two out of a belt, now I get 3-4 years. You'll also see the difference between cheap chinese belts and a woods belt with this method, go with the woods.

I haven't owned the tractor (Farmall A) very long. I didn't touch the belt at all, when I replaced the blades. So I am not sure if the belt is on correctly (which it appears not). Would you happen to have a diagram? If not, I will try to post a picture.

Let's start with a view as tho you're sitting in the driver's seat.

Let's start on the RIGHT side of the LOWER center spindle pulley, around it and over to and around the LEFT spindle, back across the REAR of the CENTER pulley at the center spindle, then on over across to the RIGHT spindle, around it and then back and around the UPPER pulley of the center spindle again.

Then pull the excess back to the drive pulley.

Don't really know how that Farmall is set up, but think you're gonna end up (again, looking from the driver's seat) with a 3/4 twist on the left side and a 1/4 twist on the right.

I can take ya a picture if my explanation is clear as mud. :>)

Allan

Select your mower from the list, and see the manual
I think there's a belt routing diagram
woods mowers

Allen nailed it in better words than the manual does. After you do it a time or two, it will go fast.

It is real easy to determine the proper direction of rotation for any blade on woods mowers or any type of a circular saw. You have to turn the bolt or nut in the direction they rotate when cutting to loosen them. If it were any other way, the blades would fall off when you hit something. I recently took a 5 ft woods belly mower off my IHC and it was a right hand discharge with cw rotation. I replaced the 5 ft with a 6 ft woods belly mower and it rotates ccw and is a left hand discharge. BTY, all blades must rotate in the same direction. My rear mount 6 ft woods mower rotates cw and is a left hand discharge. That said, get yourself a 3 inch pipe 2 ft long and 1 inch pipe 2 ft long. I put the 3 inch pipe over the blade and the 2 ft pipe on my 2 ft ratchet. When you hit something with the blade, the bolts are self tightning. You will need all the help you can get to remove the blades. Does anyone need a 5 ft woods belly off a 1950 IH C? George

I bought a woods L59 for my farmall b it ame with a new set of blades. So I put them on after mounting the mower and when I used it I found ou they were the WRONG blades they turn the wrong way. Soooo if any one needs a set of wrong blades(ccw) they are here.LOL

(quoted from post at 19:36:06 06/17/10) I bought a woods L59 for my farmall b it ame with a new set of blades. So I put them on after mounting the mower and when I used it I found ou they were the WRONG blades they turn the wrong way. Soooo if any one needs a set of wrong blades(ccw) they are here.LOL

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Greg,

I recently bought a 1944 Farmall B and had planned on buying a used L59. I was told by Woods that the B's PTO turns opposite from the A, which the mower I am wanting came off of. They told me that I would need a 59HB (59") or a L360U (72") to roperly work on the B. Of course these are not as easily found. I can build a new mounting bracket to fit the wider rear axle of the B, but what about the rotation? Is your mower a standard L59? Will I simply need to buy blades the cut opposite from those that are on it?

Thanks.
Chad