- Thread starter NEKS
- Start date
Blackhole49
Well-known Member
- Location
- White Lake MI
The problem with the truck(any particular type) or the trailer?
whizkidkyus
Member
- Location
- South Central , Ky.
If the fuse is ok and it's not blowning fuses ,then it sounds like like the trailer is to much for the trucks electrical system and is overloading that particular circuit . If it's just the park light or the night illumination lights then if you can , run another hot wire , ( with the right guage wire and fuse as well as off / on switch ) and work them that way . Turn them on or off as needed . Another thing to look for is the ground between the truck and trailer . They ground two ways , between the ball coupler ( or other type hitch ) and an electrical ground , usually a white wire on the ones that I've seen. Also , check to see that it's wired right . Probably is if it's not blowning fuses , but still you could check as you could still find other problems .
I had a 1991 S-15 truck with a 2.5 ,4 cylinder motor , 5 speed . I pulled a 5 x 10 single axel dump bed trailer with it and every time that I plugged up the trailer the turn signals wouldn't blink very fast . I replaced the factory turn signal blinker with a heavier one and problem solved .
Whizkid
I had a 1991 S-15 truck with a 2.5 ,4 cylinder motor , 5 speed . I pulled a 5 x 10 single axel dump bed trailer with it and every time that I plugged up the trailer the turn signals wouldn't blink very fast . I replaced the factory turn signal blinker with a heavier one and problem solved .
Whizkid
whizkidkyus
Member
- Location
- South Central , Ky.
P.S.
When it does that , go around to all the light assemblies and remove cover and bulbs and check for voltage as well as a good ground . I'd say that the voltage is very low . If it's blowing fuses the the circuit is overloaded or wired wrong .
Whizkid
When it does that , go around to all the light assemblies and remove cover and bulbs and check for voltage as well as a good ground . I'd say that the voltage is very low . If it's blowing fuses the the circuit is overloaded or wired wrong .
Whizkid
whizkidkyus
Member
- Location
- South Central , Ky.
True, BradK, there is usually more than one fuse box on todays autos, but if the lights work when trailer isn't hooked up , then quit when it is hooked up and start working again when the trailer is unhooked ,then it's not the fuses. Probably to many lights on a circuit ,but not pulling enough to shoot fuses as lights usually don't pull a real big load amp wise . You also have to consider the wire size and resistance from the wire size . As well as the distance ( wire run ) from power source .
P. S. He said fuses were fine, meaning not blown .
Whizkid
P. S. He said fuses were fine, meaning not blown .
Whizkid
OK Whiz,here's the thing,
I don't see any mention where the lights work again when the trailer is unplugged and why would NEKS even look at the fuses if it started working again unless he thought one potentially blew? He knows how they work.There's probably an open circuit(i.e. popped fuse) plain and simple.
PS; He said the fuses "seemed OK" which is a pretty fuzzy statement.The fuses need to be probed with a test lamp to ground to know for sure.
I don't see any mention where the lights work again when the trailer is unplugged and why would NEKS even look at the fuses if it started working again unless he thought one potentially blew? He knows how they work.There's probably an open circuit(i.e. popped fuse) plain and simple.
PS; He said the fuses "seemed OK" which is a pretty fuzzy statement.The fuses need to be probed with a test lamp to ground to know for sure.
bobs old iron
Well-known Member
as others said, ck grounds, voltage, make sure there isn't a pinched wire along wiring that could ground out the lights, and make sure wires are hooked to proper pin,,,sometimes a plug gets rewired for a different truck causing grounding of some lights...check ground wire from trailer pig tail and ground it as close to the front of trailer, because a ground at rear of trailer doesn't carry a good ground back to front lights...also ck book for proper fuse sizes, in case someone replaced with lower amp fuse....good luck,,,bob
farmer boy
Well-known Member
How many lights on the trailer. The lights on our trailer will dim out when all are on,because if you unhook a few they'll all light up more. Brakes dim the clearance lights a bit, as do blinkers. If you have a bigger trailer, or a bunch of extra lights like some trailers do you may be right out of power. You could run a seperate fused wire to the truck/trailer connection and then put a relay in there so it has a seperate power supply but comes on with the tail lights (eliminates the need to turn on a seperate switch.) You could also switch over to LED($$$). Make sure you know that it's the problem before spending that kind of money. Could also be a bad ground. Check all grounds. Make sure a live wire didn't rub and ground to trailer. Just look over everything 110%.
Unplugged trailer and still no park lights on truck. Was wondering if another inline fuse somewhere. Pulled the dash panel and think it is the switch. Trailer must pull too much current for the switch. Thinking problems on trailer caused problems on truck. Thanks for all the info.
whizkidkyus
Member
- Location
- South Central , Ky.
BradK,
Ok, here's the thing ,too. Yes, fuses need to be double checked with a multimeter or test lamp to know if their definately bad .But I figured that he would be smart enough to know that and yes " fuses seemed good " is a fuzzy stament but I'm sure that he knows how they work . Or does he ..... since he's asking for advice on here . Generally though if a fuse blows from being over loaded you can look and see where the element is blown or broken also when a fuse blows from being overloaded they usually leve a black spot in the fuse or on the glass if it's a glass fuse like the old ones that autos used or the glass windows that houses use . They even do it on the plastic ones . There's definately an open circuit or the lights would be working . The fact that their not working shows that there's an open circuit . The circuit could be open because of a fuse or a bad relay or other possible reasons.
Whizkid
P.S. I wish a lot of this were as simple and plain as a blown fuse . Then things would be easier to fix ,especially with electrical problems with a vechile
Ok, here's the thing ,too. Yes, fuses need to be double checked with a multimeter or test lamp to know if their definately bad .But I figured that he would be smart enough to know that and yes " fuses seemed good " is a fuzzy stament but I'm sure that he knows how they work . Or does he ..... since he's asking for advice on here . Generally though if a fuse blows from being over loaded you can look and see where the element is blown or broken also when a fuse blows from being overloaded they usually leve a black spot in the fuse or on the glass if it's a glass fuse like the old ones that autos used or the glass windows that houses use . They even do it on the plastic ones . There's definately an open circuit or the lights would be working . The fact that their not working shows that there's an open circuit . The circuit could be open because of a fuse or a bad relay or other possible reasons.
Whizkid
P.S. I wish a lot of this were as simple and plain as a blown fuse . Then things would be easier to fix ,especially with electrical problems with a vechile
farmer boy
Well-known Member
May also check the relay if there is one in that truck. If there is a relay there may be a fuse before of after it. If you find a relay turn the lights on and check for current where the relay plugs in. One should be hot all the time(even with light switch off) and two should be hot with switch on. If none are hot with switch off(key on) then there would almost have to be a broken wire/blown fuse between the relay centre and power supply.
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