Its always something !!!!

TJ in KY

Member
In the last 2 weeks I have rebuilt the carburetor and adjusted the governor on my MF 230 gas tractor and it was running very good so I decided to do a little bush hogging. I got a little ways away from the barn and all of the sudden it started running real rough. Like maybe running on 2 cylinders. It kept running so I opened it up to full throttle and it was still rough but by the time I got to the barn it was running smooth again. I checked points and plugs all seemed fine so I headed out to bush hog again.
I thought maybe a valve got stuck or a piece of carbon holding a valve open, I don’t know. The tractor does not get much of a work out, but it seems smooth as silk now. I thought about adding some ATF or marvel mystery oil to the gas for lubricating the valves upper cylinder area, anybody got any thoughts on that. How much should I add??
It ran fine for an hour and a half, better than it has ever run, in fact, and then a limb or something knocked the valve stem off one of the rear tire and fluid starts going everywhere. I was able to force a bolt in the broken off stem, and limp it back to the barn, but the rim is shot (2 by 4 inch area gone) so I guess I will be looking for a source for a new or used rim (6 loop style). Always something.
 
Today's gas has no lead at all for lube. I always add something to my gas because of that reason. Older engines need something for upper cylinder lube.
 
Just weld a piece over the hole in the rim. Grind and cut and clean it out, then weld and grind a piece onto it. 8-12lb air pressure is not enough to worry about the weld failing.
 
I had a couple of valves stick on my FE35 a few years ago. I have since added a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to each gas fill up. The crankcase holds seven quarts and I substitute one quart of oil with the same MMO at each change. So far, so good. TDF
 
Steve, I will have to evaluate it after I get it tore down, If the inside is not too bad i may try that.
Tom
 
"Older engines need something for upper cylinder lube."

WHY????

And, if that is true, what is different about modern engines that the DON'T need "upper cylinder lube"????
 
Dad always said the lead in the old gas acted like a softener for the valves & seats. The newer engines use a harder material for the valve seats to help minimize wear.
 
A old IHC manual notes a 1 cup of motor oil to 5 gallons of gasoline recommendation F20 to M- this for not using distillate. Newer engines with PCV valving get some oil vapors to burn, stellite valve seats, a little chrome and nickel in valves, annualer grooves in lower part of valve guides, touch of chrome in rings means the lack of lead lube has been adjusted for. RN
 
If that is all the bigger the bad area of the rim is I would weld a patch on it and be doe with it. I fix rims all the time and some that I have been told could not be fixed I fixed any how just to prove it could be done
 
Never gave that a thought. I have two fluid damaged rims. I also have two rim clamp duals that have no fluid, so no rust.

I never dual up anymore, so already have ground the ring off one of them that went between them.

It would be good to have a spare, seems like I will find something in one of the hay fields about every couple years when I am making the first round. It is usually deer antlers, but did have a broken rake tooth puncture one once. DOUG
 
Get over it Guys, Lead was a octane booster. I
delivered Gasoline during the time when they quit
leaded gas. I sold a lot of lead replacers! One of
my biggest customers always just wanted what was the
cheapest. He probably had the least trouble. Also we
started blending Alcohol in 1979. That is 30+ years,
do you think it may be ok. Vic
 
I don't know where you are in KY. I am 50 miles
northeast of Louisville and I have repaired lots of
rusty rims. If I can help, I will.
 

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