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Ot, metal roof question!

J

JayinNY

Well-known Member
I have always nailed or screwed metal roofing down on the
high part of the sheet metal, I got some metal for my barn and
my friend said to screw it down on the flat part of the sheet.
How so you do it. Thanks J
 
Depends on model of sheeting.common roofing 28 gauge with 3/4" high ribs is screwed down on the flat next to each rib(screw with metal and rubber washer).
 
Find manufacturer of the metal panels and get the cut sheet on fastening, we did half of our barn over, part that collapsed, '09-'10 and I forget now, ridge or flat but I did get the sheet from the supplier (Curtis Lumber). to make sure to get it right. Hired 2 laid off guys to help and they started putting in 2x as many as was called for, well the lift loading on those panels is now double!
 
On the old straight corrugated, you used the lead headed nails on the crowns. That carried over for awhile when they went to the delta rib and other patters, but when the screws with rubber-gasketed washers came along, they changed to screwing it down in the flats. Better lift resistance, and when done on the peaks, the sheets tended to "work" more in the wind, eventually making the fastener fail.
 
Hi Jay

I allows did on the flat here is a link
://www.ddmetal.com/Plus rib install guide.5.25.04.pdf
Go Sox
Sean
 
Thanks guys, I'm gonna look at some barns around here with new roofs and see, but I think they are screwed down on the flat part of the panel, I can't remember though, I have 66 16 foot panels to put up, and I wanna do it right. I dident get the painted kind, just the galvanized, they said both had the same warrentry. Thanks again.
 
Yes I did, the problem was the pipe the trip is mounted on
was really binding, I never oiled it before I started baleing. So
a few squirts of oil on the pipe were it rotates on the housing
and it works fine now! Gotta remember to keep it oiled.... It
was dry enough that the bale couldn't trip and make it throw.
The manual lever on the side of the kicker worked fine lol.
Last month a metal line 1 of 2 going back to the thrower
rusted threw, as I was baleing, so I couldn't tilt my thrower. I
un hooked the hoses to the tractor so I would stop loseing oil
all over the field! New line from Deere and she works great.
Its Been a busy summer.!!
 
We always use 2" woodtite screws about a inch from the rib, except on the lap..that got it in the lap. ...... We started twenty years ago putting a extra one behind the lap on the higher buildings. This was done because if the stitch screw comes loose, you have a back up screw. That is where the wind is going to grab it, so why take a chance.

Our idea caught on, and now we do every roof that way, as it takes only twenty five percent extra screws. We do not mess with different length screws while we are up on the roof.

The bottom of the roof gets one on each side of the rib, plus one in the rib. If they do not want to pay for the extra screws, they can hire someone else. Be careful on the bottom if you use over the roof eve spout hangers, so you do not put a screw where a hanger goes on the roof.

Our method is often called over kill by the Amish, and some competition. However no one has a problem calling me to quick fix a piece of steel that is flapping in the wind so it does not blow off. Money is not a big deal all of a sudden at this point it seems.
 
I did mine through the rib. Looked at the cut sheet later, was
supposed to go on flat. 2 reasons, one, in the rib can squish the
sheet and get off track as you lay it. Also, the longer the screw
sticks out the more it can work side to side and loosen in high
temps etc.
 
My main tractor was in the shop along with the thrower control most of June and July so in what little good weather we had, I had to use a smaller tractor and no control. I found that I was no better at getting the bales into the wagon with the controller as without it.
 
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