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frost free hydrant installation?????

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hey folks,

Just ordered two hydrants cause I only wanna dig once. May add a couple stalls later near where my ditch will start so will put a hydrant there and at the end. Someone said earlier to make the connection with a length of galvanized and fasten the plastic line to it. Should a foot do it and a T with a foot on each side for the one I do in the middle of the line?

Thanks,


Dave
 
I would think 1'-0" of galvanized pipe either side of a T or a stub the same length @ a 90 deg. turn would be fine. I replaced both of ours this year, I forget the transition, but its all plastic from the end of pipe. Before you backfill, test em out and make sure they don't leak, you can also observe how it drains down when you close the handle.
 
I understand they make a flex connection to hook up a hydrant. I didn't use one on my last insulation and checked it for leaks before back filling and ended up with a leak. The plastic pipe adapter where it hooked to the metal pipe broke. I used approx. 4 foot of metal pipe on mine. It really sucks to have to dig it up for a leak. Be sure to watch as ground settles back down for a leak. I think my next one will have a flex in the transition between the two.
 
(quoted from post at 14:13:27 08/06/11) I understand they make a flex connection to hook up a hydrant. I didn't use one on my last insulation and checked it for leaks before back filling and ended up with a leak. The plastic pipe adapter where it hooked to the metal pipe broke. I used approx. 4 foot of metal pipe on mine. It really sucks to have to dig it up for a leak. Be sure to watch as ground settles back down for a leak. I think my next one will have a flex in the transition between the two.
Click to expand...

I still have time....Any chance you know an online source for that flex?
 
I have used plenty of plastic connector under ground. Clamps must be stainless. The one thing that me and friends caused problems is a galvanized reducer going into the hydrant. The threads of the reducer have the galvanizing off and only last a year or two. Its not fun to dig one up in the middle of winter.
 
male pipe thread x insert adapter. I wouln't use galvanized either, I'd use brass but thats just Me. I don't like to dig em back up in 5 to 7 years.
 
I've never used the short length of metal pipe for mine, and I have always used plastic adapters. What I was taught that you need to be careful of is to have the hydrant and the plastic pipe supported equally, that is with compacted material under both. My hydrants sit in stone which is into virgin material, and the key is to compact the material where it transitions off the stone. As in Eldo's experience, settling on one side of adapter but not on the other is a problem for the adapter.
 
I would not use galvanized or plastic. I have had both corrode or break. I have been using a brass tee or 90 with a brass hose barb.

I have attached a web site that has the brass fittings.

3/4 Tee $7.03
90 elbow $4.83
3/4 close nipple $3.79
3/4 pipe to 3/4 hose barb $4.14
3/4 pipe to 1 " hose barb $11.31

This may seem high cost but think about digging it up in the winter. Good fittings are worth their cost.

Use brass fitting and stainless steel clamps. This connection will last longer than you.

Also be real careful around old building sites. If they have dumped the ashes out of the stove around and you get those ashes against the steel or brass fittings they will corroded fast.
Brass fittings
 
The recommendation to use a length of galvanized pipe is absolutely correct. If you hit your hydrant with an implement, you want the hydrant to bend rather than snap off the connection to your water line. I would use at least four feet; that will root the hydrant solidly in the ground. I happen to have pipe threading dies, so I just cut a 10 foot section in two for my two hydrants.

Set the hydrant in pea gravel or whatever the German equivalent is. Adding a short length of pipe or tubing the the hydrant drain will help to prevent sand from getting into the valve.

If there is any nearby electrical equipment, its ground needs to be bonded to the hydrant. Use clamps intended for direct burial, these use bronze screws.
 
Dosen't it kinda depend on the frost line and how deep you bury it? At my farm in North Dakota we trench 6 ft. After backfilling those things are solid. I could see the concern if it is only a foot or 2 deep.
 
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