Barn Talk. Trying to figure it out.

641Dave · Aug 5, 2011

I'm debating on the trusses and saw this in my book "Barns, Sheds and Out Buildings". One of those how-to books.

Anyway, I'm sitting here thinking about the steel trusses and not having much luck finding any around Texas. So I went to figure out how much it would cost to build wooden W trusses at home depot last night. With a 2x6 rafter it was fairly reasonable.

I saw this in my book and wonder if I use a center ridge girts like in the picture, would this hold up with a 30' wide barn?

Do any of you have a barn constructed like this?

Spook · Aug 5, 2011

I wouldn't build that way. I have a 40x40, it is clearspan the whole width. Those center poles will get in the way. Around here, you can buy trusses for not much more than the lumber would cost. And they have been engineered to work - no guessing. I'd think in Texas, you wouldn't need a 2x6 truss - my barn is in Michigan, engineered for snowloads, and it is a 2x4 truss. I originally had a dirt floor, I put in crete last year.

tomturkey · Aug 5, 2011

Yes the picture is accurate, and I am sure that using a pitch 4/12 or greater you can get 30' wide. BUTTT you must deal with the posts in the center supporting the ridge. Trusses eliminate that post for a clear span building. Awfull easy to back a piece of equipment into a post and create a catastrphe. my .02 worth gobble

elmersooner · Aug 5, 2011

should hold just fine, you have to match the rafters to the expected roof load and length of run, guessing in texas you could go for low pitch 3/1 roof rafters would be approx 16.5 feet long--a few searches will let you know the thickness of lumber and species required for what you want to do...snow load ain't too much of a problem where you are at.. google it and you will be surprised..if you can't find post back and I will try to find the link....

Jaden · Aug 5, 2011

Second on the clear span trusses. They also tie the sides together so they can't spread. The flat bottoms also are a start for ceiling joists if you would want to finish a shop area.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 5, 2011

I would go with the W trusses and do away with center post.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 5, 2011

There appears to be a weak point where the ridge girt is joined to the center pole. The plan puts a lot confidence in the bolts holding the girt by themselves. Looks like the pole either needs to be notched or additional framing under the girt to hold the weight. It looks like the roof would soon sag without truss support.

MSD · Aug 5, 2011

Looking at your picture, I don't know what kind of pole barn would
have floor joists in it. I would throw that book as far as I could and
go to a real lumber yard for some advise on how to do it. By real I
don't mean a Lowes or Home Depot.

kyhayman · Aug 5, 2011

Looks like a regular pole barn to me. Its got a lot more rafters than I usually see, and sheeting over the rafters which I never see on barns. Appears to me to be a lot stronger than most of the tobacco barns Ive seen and some of them having been standing for a hundred years.

jbp · Aug 5, 2011

I would go with the 4/12 trusses eliminating the center row of posts. Doubt there will be much if any difference in cost.
In 1985 I built a hay barn that is 40 foot span trusses that has seen some pretty heavy snow loads without any sign of structual distress. It sure is nice to not have a row of post down the center.
I did use trusses spaced on 4 foot centers with 2X4 sheathing spaced on 16 inch centers. Just let your truss builder know about the spacing, and he can engineer the truss for proper sizes of materials to use. Joe

paul · Aug 5, 2011

That would be a poor design, who wants posts down the middle of the shed when you can buy trusses so scheaply and put up a good clear span shed? Penny wise and pound foolish is what thatdesign is. Here in MN it would not work on a 30 foot building anyhow, we have snowload.

Get some good trusses, they are typically cheaper than what you can build yourself and they are properly engineered. Throw that book away.

--->Paul

HenryO · Aug 5, 2011

I built a barn with a ridge beam that was 32x52. Similar to what you want. However, my ridge beam was constructed in place using 1/2 in plywood sandwiched between 2X10's. It stood up thru a hurricane so I was completely satisfied.

Organicfarmer1972 · Aug 5, 2011

There's a place just inside Burleson on I35 that makes metal trusses. I drive by there on the way to work and can get the number if you are interested.

thurlow · Aug 5, 2011

I agree with the others; forget the center posts. When I built my woodshop, I found plans for my trusses on the net.....from Iowa State, I think. It's only 24 ft wide, but they had plans for much wider buildings. All my hay barns were built with just 2x6 rafters (not trusses) and GOOD collar ties.

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Mike (WA) · Aug 5, 2011

That style works best for little buildings, where the length is short enough that you don't need a support pole in the middle, and narrow enough that you can get by with 2 X 6 rafters- probably no more than 18 feet wide, or so (which would take 10 foot 2 X 6 on each side of the roof). I'd go with clear span pole barn trusses.

randallnMo · Aug 5, 2011

I think the floor joists shown are for "example" purposes only. If there is a pole in the middle of the 30 ft building, by the time you get the entry door (or garage door) framed in you're going to be left with a very narrow door. 'Wouldn't work for backing anything of any width into.

dhamps10 · Aug 5, 2011

I have seen barns with 1/2 raised floor, like the picture. They are to store grain or hay on one side. With a 1/2 floor, the center poles would not be a problem. For most uses, I would go with clear span trusses. Depends on inteded use.
Dennis

jose bagge · Aug 5, 2011

I'll send you a picture of my barn- it was absolutely built like this, it's a 30x 60. I'll snap a hayloft picture when I get home

Anonymous-0 · Aug 5, 2011

Don't know how deep you are in Texas but there is an old boy at Mena Arkiesaw that has a pile and I mean a big pile of metal trusses. He does chicken house tear-downs. Last time I was there 28 foot metal clear spans were forty dollars. Check the Texarkana Craigs list for his number and pics of trusses.

HP 28-50 · Aug 5, 2011

Been in the trade for 25 yr. and been around six or several old farm buildings that have the same construction and weathered decades of use. While I don't always agree with them, you'll need to check with your local building official. As for the construction design I don't see anything wrong with the layout. Don't be shy on your center ridge and bearing perlins. They are easy to do now, tough to do later. Don't worry about the 35psf snow load.

IA Leo · Aug 5, 2011

in 1971 I built 24 foot span rafters out of 2x4's with w style brace, leaving a walkway down the center. 5-12 pitch, 24" overhang, 24" spacing to fit a new upper floor. Casein glue, 1/2 plywood plates, galvanized nails. Laid out one rafter on sawhorses in back yard, nailed cleats on it and laid the rest, one by one, on top of it and built 19 more. Stacked them on conc blocks under tarp and had them put up the next spring. No issues in Cedar Falls, IA for forty years.Leo

641Dave · Aug 7, 2011

okay, I see the point y'all are making about the center poles.

I'll truss it. Still not sure if I'm going to build my own trusses in metal or lumber. I've been looking at barns and even have a friend looking into some pipe for me.

Organic, is that Miller's Metal Buildings? I just drove by there and looked at there trusses. I live a mile away from there. lol. Thanks for pointing that out to me. I'm going to give them a call tomorrow.

I'm thinking of getting the poles up and a roof over a 30' x 50 or 60' long. Hoping to later close in 1/3 rd of it and leaving the rest open just to have a place to work in the shade.

Guys, as usual I really appreciate the help and opinions.

Barn Talk. Trying to figure it out.

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