1130Leo

Member
Well my Wife bought a tractor this weekend at an auction, I think she paid too much, but now I need to figure out the controls and how this thing works. Anyone know what all the controls are on this thing? It appears to have one set of hydraulic remotes, which are currently attached to a Kelly Loader which I am going to remove, the loader will be for sale. there is a huge counter weight on the 3 point arms, which so far the 3 point does not look to work as the weight does not move when i move the lever. She bought this thing to supposedly help me, but now i have to figure out how to hopefully use this thing and or how to fix it... Help...
 
My dad had one of those on his farm, and it did everything. Working it hard it sipped a half gallon and hour. Real easy to run the tractor too. Lever on the left side of the column is like a clutch for the PTO. To engage the pto, there is a little lever by your left foot. Pull the lever by the column back and the little one forward, then slowly engage the column lever. When not using the PTO, leave the column lever forward, saves on your clutch. Differential should be by the right foot, and after that, there is not much more to them. Dad still wonders why he sold his 45 on the auction.
 
Thanks for the info, I wondered what that lever next to the column was for.. I guess I really need to try to find a manual for this thing. My dad had a 100hp Deutz when I was a kid, but I was never allowed to drive it, so I'm pretty much clueless on these. I do remember his big tractor being the cheapest one on the farm to run, hopefully this one is still good as I'm stuck with it now...
 
what did she pay??? Those things in decent shape in the land of deutz go for close to 10k and up....Neighbor has a deutz with loader and he has a cutoff valve so that the counterweight don't go up and down....
Try googling deutz tractors and get the german website (.de instead of .com), click on the english link and email them asking for an owners manual in english. They'll more than likely email you a .pdf file for free..
Is it aircooled or the watercooled export version?
Good Luck
 
I have one. Great tractor, a bit hard to get on and off of and a bit confusing to learn how to run. Once you do though, it is a beast.

There is a small lever off the valve block on the right side of the seat that has to be in the right position to run either the pto or the loader/remotes. You cannot run both simultaneously unless you have a power beyond block which can be purchased for about $80 or I have the prints if you have access to a mill.

The pto selector is off to the left side of the seat. Once engaged the big lever on the side of the cowl is the pto clutch used to engage and disengage the pto. The lights are another interesting bit of getting used to.... the key switch is a 5 position and depending on where it's at controls what lights are on.

Where are you located?
 
Im in the Thumb of Michigan, not too many Deutz tractors here, but a few. Is there a way to "Lock" the loader into position to enable use of the remote to run a cylinder on a haybine without completely removing the loader?
 
thanks for the tips dave, I'll certainly give it a try. It's an Air cooled 3 cylinder, she paid $4,000.00 for it, if I don't end up having to put a ton of money into it will hopefully be a decent deal, but I'm afraid at this point. I don't think there is currently an operational light on the tractor, well other than one indicator light on the panel which at least lets me know i've got the key turned on... The loader does not move well, so I'm pretty sure it will need the hydro pump rebuilt, hopefully it's not too hard to remove the loader, I don't need it anyway's..
 
Years ago, north of Deckerville at the Palms road turn off, there was a tractor shop that handled Deutz. Kramers was the name. I don't know if it is still in business.
 
I've seen his shop, I have not been by there in a couple years though, I may have to look him up. There used to be a dealer on wildcat road too, Beneker's I think, but I don't know if they are open at all any more either.
 
parts are real reasonable over here for them if I can help you. May be able to find a wiring diagram for you. I'll play around a little and see what I can find...
 
If you put a power beyond block on, then yes. You could try to tee into the lines basically hard plumbing the loader where as you could use your remotes again. Otherwise you would have to disconnect the loader and support it up with a piece of angle iron on the cylinder rod, which I wouldn't recommend. I'm attaching a print of the power beyond block.
 

The loader is slow b/c these tractors have a small pump. There is probabily nothing wrong with it.

email me and I'll send you that print of the pb block, I can't figure out how to post a picture.

mje171 at yahoo.com[/img]
 
My grandad had a 4506 when I was a kid and traded it in on a 5506. My dad has a 5506 and I bought a DX140. The '06 series tractors are virtually bullet-proof. There is a handle behind the seat on top of the 3-point unit that turns. Make sure your draft lever(next to the 3-point lever) is all the way forward/down. Move the lever behind the seat and see if your 3-point doesn't start working. They made to different 'cc hyd. pumps. I think the bigger is 19cc. They'll run about $250-$350. You can usually pick up the pumps AND the manuals on ebay. Every "light brown" wire on the '06 tractors is a ground wire. Too many people don't understand the wiring and chop it up. Like most electrical gremlins, most are to ground issues. So, look for the "light brown" wires, make sure they are clean and making good contact. The key-switch IS basically a power/light-switch. A "black" 10ga. wire goes from the key-switch to the actual ign.-switch. Pull to the first click and that's your pre-heat. Pull all the way out and that's your ignition. There will be two 10ga. black wires from the back of the ign.-switch that go to a chrome"salt-shaker" looking thing on the right side of the bottom of the dash. When you pull the knob to the 1st position, there is a resistor spring that will glow to let you know it's working. It also gets REALLY hot so resist the urge to touch it to see if it's working. From the back of the "salt-shaker", two 10ga. wires go to the front of the tractor. One goes to the "glow-plug" in the manifold and the other goes to a solenoid that has a fuel-line running to it. The solenoid hangs from the support bracket between the engine and the front bulkhead(above the crank pulley). Hope this helps.
 

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