I have delt with this prob for YEARS!! 3020 gas..powershift.. turn key, press start button.you hear the click click sound of starter/sylanoid However I can short across the starter and cyl. and make it start..It doesnt do this all the time. Sometimes it will start.. I have replaced batt. cables with J.D. heavy duty cables. replaced key switches, and buttons.. So Do I need to beef up and replace wiring?? Side note.. I have had the starter in to repair shop..say nothing wrong with it..thankyou for your imput.
- Thread starter MSS3020
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Sure all connections are clean and everything is grounded good??
Have you got the possibility of trying another starter or solenoid? You say that sometimes it'll start, maybe the day you took it to the shop things were setting right for it to work and you have an internal problem with the starter....
Good luck.....
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Probably the start circuit is loosing amps or volts from corroded/loose connections on key & neutral start switch. I'd recommend adding a second solenoid above starter that if wired correctly(similar to console 3020/4020) will provide adequate amps/volts to starter solenoid exciter wire.
I would assume that has a safety switch so the shift lever has to be in the correct position doesn't it? Like the synchro does where the shift has to be all the way ahead in park?
Is that adjusted right so that the button on it is pushed all the way in when the shift is in the right position? What happens if you wiggle the shift while you try to start it?
Is that adjusted right so that the button on it is pushed all the way in when the shift is in the right position? What happens if you wiggle the shift while you try to start it?
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
If I'm not mistaken, the solenoid sets directly on top of the starter, and is also used to engage the starter drive with a plunger type of affair? The contact points and contact disc will get burned spots on them and then the actual electrical connection is severely compromised and will result in that "click, click, click" when you push the button.
It used to be a guy could disassemble the solenoid and clean the contacts, and basically make it work just like a new one again, but the solenoids built in the last 40 years or so cannot be taken apart without doing irrepairable damage, so you have no choice but to buy a new one.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
rustyfarmall
I stand by my statement that adding an extra solenoid similar to older Ford motor vehicles is simpler,cheaper & BETTER than R&R of the solenoid bolted to starter.
The pitting of the copper washer and stud contacts was more common on 24V diesel engines than 12V gasoline engine starter mounted solenoids. It's been a lot less than 40 years since an OEM JD solenoid could have the plastic cap removed and the copper washer inside of the solenoid flipped to the other side!!!!!
trucker 40
Member
Alright,I dont know about a 3020,but on big trucks,on the starter solenoid there is a brass washer inside that the contact,contacts with to make a connection,to make the starter motor turn.As time goes on the connection will get stuck and pull piece off of the face of the brass washer and it will be all the way around.So then instead of connect and start,it just clicks because it doesnt want to fully connect in that ate up side of the washer.If you could take it a part,and turn the washer around,it would work for quite a while.Or even grind it off to where its smooth again.Or maybe replace the solenoid.I dont know if you can take one apart on a 3020,but you can on a big truck.A big Delco Remy starter like on a big truck is used on some tractors,not sure about a John Deere 3020.
FWIW, 3020 gasser uses same starter-mounted Delco solenoid as Chevy used on their cars from the late '50's into the 80's.
He can get the kit to add the extra solenoid From DEERE, (starting improvement kit) part #RE44536, for a little over $80.00. Quite a bit MORE than buying a "ford-type" solenoid at an auto parts store, but it includes a bunch of wiring lead AND instructions to make the job simple for someone not familiar with what's being done.
The solenoid on the starter can be bought at an auto parts store, just ask for a quality solenoid for a 1975 Chevy pickup.
Or, from DEERE, part #SE501441, about 20 bucks (exchange).
He can get the kit to add the extra solenoid From DEERE, (starting improvement kit) part #RE44536, for a little over $80.00. Quite a bit MORE than buying a "ford-type" solenoid at an auto parts store, but it includes a bunch of wiring lead AND instructions to make the job simple for someone not familiar with what's being done.
The solenoid on the starter can be bought at an auto parts store, just ask for a quality solenoid for a 1975 Chevy pickup.
Or, from DEERE, part #SE501441, about 20 bucks (exchange).
trucker 40
Member
Alright,since its like a Chevy starter,I have seen those kits where they put a Ford solenoid on a Chevy truck,usually a big block,and it helps to eliminate that problem where it just clicks.But on a tractor,where you can probably get right at it,you could change the solenoid,or maybe even take it apart and flip the washer over,as they have a washer inside them thats like the big trucks only smaller.Of course they may have made it where you cant take it apart too.Putting the Ford Solenoid on there might work too.It seems like to me that you could buy a kit for that at NAPA.Might be quite a bit less than 80 dollars from Napa.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
As previously stated. The starting circuit through the key switch has VD.
Careful about jumping starters. Ask any rural funeral home staff if they have ever seen a flat farmer.
Careful about jumping starters. Ask any rural funeral home staff if they have ever seen a flat farmer.
glennster
Well-known Member
get a test light and check the small wire that comes from the starter button to the solenoid. when you depress the starter button see if the test lamp lights. it could be a break somewhere in that wire, or as rrlund said, the starter interlock safety switch is either out of adjustment or defective.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
glennster
All "defective" JD neutral start switches I've been around either worked or didn't work IE bad NS switch "no starter solenoid click"
fixerupper
Well-known Member
I'm sounding redundant here because others have said this already, but putting a Ford style solenoid between the key and starter solenoid will assure you that you have FULL voltage to the magnetic starter solenoid coil. Maximum voltage to the coil will help the solenoid snap in strong and quick. I would think there would be less arcing and longer life if the contact washer makes quicker and stronger contact. Jim
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
fixerupper
Your statement is correct only if a large enough wire from battery to extra solenoid is used to carry sufficient volts/amps to energize solenoid on starter and wired correctly.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Yeah, I thought about mentioning something about that but I wasn't sure what gauge to recommend. Maybe 10ga from batt to solenoid and 12ga solenoid to solenoid? I tend to want to oversize when I don't know what I'm doing. Jim
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