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farm gates

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have two gate openings that I need to make gates for. The proplem is my wife wants them so she can open and close them off a horse.I was thinking either a 20 ft or 2 10 ft.Any ideas about a latching system that could work off a horse.I am thinking 20 footer would be easyer to fabricate .The post will not have a proplem holding it up because it is a old highline post 16 inches in diameter and buried six foot deep.Any ideas?
 
Yes Sir,

I also would go for the 20 footer and build you latch on a hinge affair with a tall latch arm that reaches above the gate.

Probably gonna need a small wheel on that swing end or a cable strut back and up the anchor post to support all that weight.

Stop by any sale barn and look at their pens if ya can't make out what I'm tring to say. :>)

Allan
 
Thinking of making it with square tubing on the outside two or three verticl one and fill the openings with cattle panels it would be lighter than a six rail type gate.Going out to build more high tensile fence today.
 
Women want to much.

I tell my wife to build her own projects,i found it lowers her desires substantially.
 
The latches Allan described are easily made with some 3/4 inch pipe, 3/4 inch rod, salvaged valve springs, etc. I had dozens of 'em (self-latching) in my corrals when I's in the cattle buiness.
 
Why don't you make her seperate 4' horse gates. She could roll it open from one side and roll it shut from the other.
 
Allan has a good idea. Your 16" highline post will tip if it's free standing without an anchor unless the post is tamped in REAL HARD with 3' of gravel or crushed limestone all the way around. 20' is a lot of gate no matter how light you try to make it. The latch with the handle sticking out of the top of the gate is the best like others said. Be careful not to make the latch too heavy cause it's way out there on the end of the gate where weight is your worst enemy. Doesn't hurt to make the latch a little loose and sloppy so it doesn't rust tight. I made that mistake years ago. I started making my gate latches to precision tolerances so everything would be nice and tight. After a year in the weather they were tight alright!!!Good luck and show us pics when you're done.

Two ten footers solves the weight problem and one ten foot gate is easier to swing from the saddle, and it will swing away quicker because of a shorter turning radius, but then you'll need a center stake going into the ground to hold one of them. Works fine in the hot dry desert country but not so well in a state that has ice in the winter. Jim
Untitled URL Link
 
"Does Your Chewing Gum Lose It'a Flavor On The Bedpost Overnight" always brought back sad memories.
 
Over time that post will gradually lean so put a wheel on the outside of the gate to take the weight, Latch the chain at the top or weld a piece to raise chain providing post is high enough. 2c
 
I assume these are interior gates and not ones you keep locked on the perimeter of your place.I personally like two gates on one that wide,they are just easier to keep up in my opinion.I would suggest horse gates also with a spring loaded latch on top.If for some reason you needed to catch a old cow or calf they can come in handy also.Heres what to do,put your horse gate 10 ft off to one side of your main gates.between the gate post for your main gate and the post for your horse gate build a good board or pipe fence.If you need to catch a cow swing main gate back making a "V" in fence.run your cow or calf in it, and use horse gate to close,by latching two gates together or to another post .You can load to trailer just by backing up and unhooking horse gate.and by using a rope over to a good pipe fence you have sort of a poor boy squeeze chute.offset all gates twenty ft or so out of fence line and with just very little more money you have a pen in every pasture.comes in mighty handy when your alone and at a place 50 miles from help and need a old cow penned for some reason.
 
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