OT electrical conduit

Chuck MA

Member
I have a questions for you guys about running electrical through a conduit, Can I run a 6/3 uf cable and a 12/3 romex cable through the same conduit (1 1/2 pvc)? I know they will fit through I just like to know if its acceptable and if not why not. The cables connect to different things. The 12/3 powers lights and outlets, the 6/3 for a 240v welder outlet. The 12/3 has been in place for 25years or so, the 6/3 is new and they both come from same 200 amp service. this is to connect from house to barn.
Thanks, any help would be appreciated, Chuck
 
I dont have any heartburn with two wires (6/3 UF and 12/3) from a home panelboard out to a shop but I would have the concerns below:::

...... If its underground Id wanna replace the 12/3 Romex with 12/3 UF Cable.

..... If youre installing new PVC anyway its not much more expensive to install bigger diameter to make future wire pulling or upgrades easy.

..... Is there any disconenct means out at the shop??

..... Each building requires an earth grounding system ya know

Okay, you didnt ask this and may NOT wanna hear it or care buttttttttttttttt FWIW heres how I would do it if I wanted to power up a shop and feed it from the house panel

Id run a 120/240 volt Single Phase 3 Wire 100 amp service out there fed from a 240 volt 2 pole 100 amp circuit breaker in the main panel. IFFFFFFF your main panel will accept a breaker that big!!!!! If not you may have to run a 60 amp service or utilize other tap methods subject to the main panels incoming wiring. I would bury PVC conduit (unless under driveway) and use UF cable (if you use a 4 conductor single cable) enclosed or THWN if individual conductors, from home to shop with rigid conduit risers as/where needed if the conduit comes up out of the ground.

You would need to run 4 wires out,,,,2 Hots (L1 & L2),,,,,,,,,1 Neutral,,,,,,,1 Equipment Grounding Conductor AND OUT AT THE SHOP PANEL KEEP NEUTRAL AND EQUIPMENT GROUND BUSSES SEPERATE AND ISOLATED I.E. NOT a single common buss with Neutrals and Grounds BOTH connected to it.

If a concrete floor shop Id use GFCI outlets.

Sorry if you wanted a simple answer, as an old retired electrical distribution engineer I just gotta lay it all out there, ITS YOUR HOME AND YOUR CHOICE HOWEVER

John T
 
John thanks for the the quick reply 12/3 was installed by electrician 25 years is uf cable my mistake all I want to do is add an 240 outlet for buzzbox welder. But since the entry is in the same area I was going to put 1 1/2 conduit through the concrete floor an where the 1/2 conduit was for the 12/3. I just didnt want to make two different holes for the conduit. It would be much easier to enlarge the existing hole. The 12/3 and 6/3 both have disconnects right at the entry point. Now should I ground the disconnect with a ground rod and not through the main service panel? I hope this makes sense to you.
Chuck
 
B&D thanks its 1 1/2 pvc to enter the building so it should work. plenty of room left in the conduit. Appreciate your help.
Chuck
 
John has givin you all the right answeres . If it was me I would run a new line and 100 amp box . Do away with the 12/3 and just run it into the new box and your welder outlet then you will also have plenty of room to hardwire that new aircompressor you get from santa.
 
I thought the latest thinking/code was to not have an earth ground on the sub pannel

All sub pannels have to have a seperate ground that runs back to the main pannel and its earth ground. This keeps everything on the same ground plane so you don't get a shock
 
You state..."I thought the latest thinking/code was to not have an earth ground on the sub pannel" BUTTTTTTTTT each structure served by an electrical service still requires grounding so Id still establish a grounding electrode system at the shop be it "made" like driving rod or rods into the earth or approved metallic piping or foundation steel etc etc.

You state..."All sub pannels have to have a seperate ground that runs back to the main pannel and its earth ground. This keeps everything on the same ground plane so you don't get a shock"

THATS RIGHT a sub panel has a seperate and isolated (from Neutral) equipment ground buss and its wired back to the equipment ground buss back at the main panel. It just so happens that at the main service entrance (there and not at subs downstream) the Neutral buss is bonded to the equipment ground buss and the Neutral is also bonded to a grounding electrode (driven rod or rods etc)

get it??????/

John T
 
You ask....Now should I ground the disconnect with a ground rod and not through the main service panel?

Out at the remote shop sub panel (or a disconenct etc. out there), the equipment ground gets bonded to a grounding electrode such as a driven rod or rods as required.

The panel at home the main panel while any panel at the shop is a sub panel. If theres a sub panel in the shop, it must have a seperate and isolated Equipment Ground Buss and a seperate and isolated Neutral Buss (unlike at the main panel where those two busses are bonded). At that sub panel you run a "grounding electrode conductor" (like No 4 bare copper) out to a made "grounding electrode" such as a driven rod or rods as required.

BUTTTTTTTTT when you run power out to the shop, in days past you could just run 3 wires, 2 hots and a Neutral HOWEVER the latest NEC requires 4 to be ran out, 2 hots, 1 Neutral, 1 Equipment ground and then the Neutral and Ground Busses are kept seperate and isolated out there.

NOTE it will still work as they did for yearssssssssssss if you just run 3 wires out (2 hots and Neutral) Im just tellin you what the latest NEC says to do, I can explain why but not in a few sentences

John T
 
Huntingreen2day Thats was what the original question was about just protecting the uf wire up through the concrete floor from the outside. This is not a large shop just a small barn. the wires are buried a foot or so underground.
Chuck
 

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