Anyone tried Evans waterless coolant

Spotted Horse · Jun 11, 2011

Anybody here tried Evans waterless coolant in their diesel tractors?
Information says it has a boiling point of 375 degrees, and isn't corrosive like water and antifreeze.
My cousin has a Cat grader that has run HOT ever since he bought it new in 1978, and he's wondering if the "waterless coolant" would make it run cooler.

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

Bob · Jun 12, 2011

Hmmmmm! Water and antifreeze is CORROSIVE????

Anonymous-0 · Jun 12, 2011

Water can be ever hear of a ph test? I'v seen some that were off the charts.

MarkB_MI · Jun 12, 2011

Looking at their website, the claim is that you can get better fuel efficiency by changing out thermostats and running the engine hotter. So if your intention is to get an engine to run cooler, this stuff isn't going to get you there.

Note that there are few substances whose specific heat is higher than water. Which is the main reason we don't run straight ethylene glycol. I dug around a bit on their web site, and finally found where they list the specific heat of their products. Water has a specific heat of 1.0 Btu/lb-<sup>o</sup>F, 50/50 antifreeze has a specific heat of 0.82. The Evans products range from .66 to .71. They make up a little bit by being slightly denser than water or antifreeze mix, but the Evans stuff is not going to conduct heat out of an engine faster than standard 50/50 antifreeze/water mix.

Wilson · Jun 12, 2011

Bob and Rusted nuts your both correct in a way Thats why in expensive engines distilled water in worth the expense

Mike (WA) · Jun 12, 2011

When someone is having problems with the engine running hot, the problem is that its boiling off the coolant, not that the heat poses a problem for actual operation of the engine. Seems to me that the limiting point of diesel engine operation is the boiling point of the coolant- if the coolant wouldn't boil until 250 or even 300 degrees, wouldn't the engine run more efficiently?

John M · Jun 12, 2011

I ran it in my Powerstoke. It takes some extra time to get the water out of the engine, since you cant get every last drop out within a couple of hours. The dealer I got mine from siad to drain and flush with distilled several times and make one final drain. Let it sit overnight, then fill with Evans. Drill a VERY small hole in the cap, this will let any remaining water evaporate off over time. I think I let it go like a year before I repalced the cap. I did change the thermostat to a 195, from a vendor, dont recall who, the ones at parts palces, and even Ih werent right or something, his was, but Im pretty sure thats all changed now. I didnt notice anything but a slightly hotter heater, and a VERY slight increase in milage, but I was told that was from ghe thermostat being hotter, and the Stoke needed to be al ittle hotter to perform better. (Probably all in my mind, but I know others who have the same results as I did)

Bob · Jun 12, 2011

That's my point... I use either pre-mixed coolant or distilled water and new antifreeze and have NEVER had a corrosion problem.

Whatever other magical properties the waterless coolant may have is ANOTHER matter!

<img src = "http://i55.tinypic.com/34fgncg.jpg">

Ludwig · Jun 12, 2011

"Cheap" premixed coolant is usually something like 2x as expensive as better quality straight coolant.

I've read where distilled water will pull minerals out of the metal in the block...

Spotted Horse · Jun 12, 2011

(quoted from post at 06:26:30 06/12/11) When someone is having problems with the engine running hot, the problem is that its boiling off the coolant, not that the heat poses a problem for actual operation of the engine. Seems to me that the limiting point of diesel engine operation is the boiling point of the coolant- if the coolant wouldn't boil until 250 or even 300 degrees, wouldn't the engine run more efficiently?

Mike, your comments sounds just like the conversation my cousin and I were having yesterday afternoon.
I think he's going to order 11 gallons of the stuff and try it in his grader.
All the years he has owned it, when he works it hard he also has to stop for a while so it can cool down.
The Cat people that have worked on the grader, admit there is a heating problem, but they can't find anything wrong with the engine.

MarkB_MI · Jun 12, 2011

Regardless of the boiling point of the coolant, the cooling system still has to shed the heat. It is true that the radiator can dissipate more heat if the coolant is hotter, but the heat has to get from the engine block to the radiator first.

Personally, if my temperature gauge is pegged at 250, I would be concerned about my engine overheating regardless of whether or not the radiator is boiling over.

Anyone tried Evans waterless coolant

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