Tubes in new front tires with new rims?

Hi, I ordered new rims, and Firestone tires, for my Ford 5000. Should I put tubes in them right off the bat? I do have a loader on this tractor.

As a bit of a rant, I went to the New Holland dealer and asked about new rims. They said $440 each, which I thought was ridiculous and I expressed my dismay. When I got home, I looked on the internet and in 3 minutes found new rims for $67 each in Sask. I'm in BC and the shipping is $30 each. Needless to say, I ordered two.

The disheartening thing is that the New Holland dealer was not quoting original factory rims either, and they would not listen to reason. And this is not the first time. Last year I was buying an hydraulic motor, and the same dealer quoted $800. I called around and got a price of $400 retail in Edmonton. I went back to the local dealer and told them I would like to support local business, but that their margin is significantly too high and told them the price I could get the same motor for in Alberta. They would not budge on their price... so I ordered the motor from Alberta. After shipping, I saved $360 over the local dealer price.

I would like to support our local businesses, but they seem to be gouging us. And I find that disrespectful, and immoral.

Ok, I'm done with my rant. Should I put tubes in?

Thanks,

Troy Boyd

Unless the tires and rims are made to be run
tubeless, you'll NEED teh tubes in right away. If
they are tubeless, it's you're call... I'd probably
go with tubes.

I put tubes in everything around the farm. Just less headaches in the long run. I also put a little baby powder inside between the tube and tire/rim when putting it all together. Tubes don't stick to the rim and don't tear if you need to remove them for any reason.

I always put tubes in mine even if they are tubeless rims and tires. Every time in the past that I have gone tubeless on a tractor tire I later regretted it.

Yep, any new front rim should be 80 max, even in Canada. But there are so many old ones around- if you know where to look, ford, MF and others are all same bolt pattern. Hummm. It has only been a year since the first... experiment.. but I had an old rim and an older- but really good tire- and a tube.. filled with solid rubber. It goes by the pound- or kilo in the great white north, and they have a chart to estimate the cost by the tire size. I did that first time for a brushog pair, then liked the idea. That extra weight up front for plowing, and helps hold the weight of the snow plow rig. Under proper use, they should be good into the next millenium.. we'll see...

Most rims for most of the older tractors are made to be run with tubes in them and unless they are made to be run tubeless you will end up with problems with out the tubes and having a flat all the time is a pain. Also those rims are most likely the common 6 bolt rim and any good farm and home place should have them

Personally... if they are tubeless wheels and tubeless tires... I would not have any blasted tube in it. If they're tube type... use tubes.
I've generally found (with a few exceptions) that tubeless tires cause FAR LESS trouble than tube types. Today... I'm repairing a Michelin AgriBib that had a tube. It ripped the stem off the tube... Calcium everywhere. It's going back tubeless to match the one on the other side that did the same thing a year or two ago. It's going on dry too. The older I get the more I hate tubes and calcium.

Your call on what you do...

As far as the pricing goes... there's a lot of different wheels out there at a lot of different prices. You can buy genuine NH that's made in the UK by GKN Sankey. It's expensive. You can buy Unverferth that's made in the US... and it's probably just as expensive... or you can buy A&I... that's probably made in Turkey. It's not so expensive to buy but they're just plain cheap, soft wheels. If they fit... PErsonally... I buy Sankey wheels for my own stuff. For customers who are trying to save a buck I will get A&I stuff if they want it.
My guess... where you have a loader on this thing... you'll be looking for a Sankey wheel in a year or two when the centers break clean out of these ones. There is a difference... it's not just markup.

Rod

As others have said if they are tubeless type tires and rims with the sharp feather edge I would want to go tubeless. HOWEVER, it depends on how you use your loader and how large the bucket is. It is too easy to roll a bead off even trying to take it light and slow. I fought with one tubeless tire on the front of my loader tractor for three years and then put a tube in it and no problems since. If you are using it hard I would say that you are ahead with a tube and 20% extra air pressure. JMHO

If there tubeless rims make sure you look them over good.They sometimes have sharp welds that will eventually wear a hole in a tube.They don't waste time grinding down welds on tubeless rims since there's no tube.