Suggestions for a Second Tractor

I have my 135 at home and it"s a great tractor (when it works and if I know how to fix my own mistakes.)

I"ve been wanting a tractor that can run a loader as I know the front end of my 135 can"t handle the strain and abuse plus the hydraulics are slow.

We used to have a Ford 4500 TLB but after Dad died and it sat for so long, we sold it. I know those for their era are great machines.

I"ve seriously been considering a Row Crop vs another utility tractor but this is the list I"ve thought up to look at.

Massey 165 - only problem, hydraulic capacity is low.

Ford 4000/4600 - better hydraulics and easy to find parts

Ford 3550/4500 - Finding another 4500 TLB in better shape than my own w/Diesel. A junkyard near Dayton has a 3550 TLB which I know is the industrial 3000 but has the same backhoe as the 4500. I know I want to get the 8spd.

John Deere 2510 - From what I read it was the row crop version of the 2020 after the 2010 went down in flames. From what I"ve read the 2510 is much better than the 2520. How hard are parts for this machine?

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? My requirement is that parts are relatively easy(ier) to find and perhaps run on biofuels when and if its necessary. Also it has to be able to have the hydraulic power to run a loader.

Where I am at in Ohio, a 2510 would have the best support followed by the Fords, but I"m not fond of the dealership here. I have a healthy working relationship my Massey dealer because of the 135.

Christos

3020 gas There everwhere and priced right.

Ford 4000/5000 would do you a good job-almost bulletproof

Difference between MF165 (all) and Ford 4000 (late model) hydraulic flow capacity is less than .5 gpm. So, difference in hydraulic capacity/capabilities very little difference .

Nothing wrong with Deere 2520 EXCEPT they sell for insane prices. You could probably find a nice 2440/2640, ect, for same money. Parts for any Deere will be easy (except for price) to find compared to most anything else.

What do you plan to do with the loader?

A week ago I had strong winds put trees on 2 of my houses. Hiring pro to remove the trees. I have a toy loader/backhoe a terramite T5C. Been helping neighbors lift small logs and clean up the brush. Some people say to me they have a larger backhoe, but can't use without putting ruts in the yard. They all impressed with what my toy can lift. Everyone says they wished they had one.

Point is, what do you plan to do with the loader? Bigger loaders for bigger jobs. My toy is for small jobs in small places and it makes a smaller foot print.

(quoted from post at 03:10:24 06/01/11) What do you plan to do with the loader?

A week ago I had strong winds put trees on 2 of my houses. Hiring pro to remove the trees. I have a toy loader/backhoe a terramite T5C. Been helping neighbors lift small logs and clean up the brush. Some people say to me they have a larger backhoe, but can't use without putting ruts in the yard. They all impressed with what my toy can lift. Everyone says they wished they had one.

Point is, what do you plan to do with the loader? Bigger loaders for bigger jobs. My toy is for small jobs in small places and it makes a smaller foot print.

Click to expand...

Exactly............. If you are just movinmg round bnales and some poop, fix what you have and put a loader on it. My tractor is a little smaller than yours and 26 HP. getting ready to put the loader back on it. Gotta put a little more air in the frt tires and it steers a little harder with 800 pounds hanging on it, but sure gets in where you need it. Based on all the advice I got when I had the twinkle in the eye, I'd go with the ford 4000 if you are set on a replacement.

Dave

George hit it. What's the intended use?

I've got 2 loaders. Started with a compact tractor and proceeded to tear up the front end. More than one rebuild, I re-engineered it. While looking for a larger farm tractor I bumped into industrial loaders. Rear steer, they're designed for serious loader work. Now a 23,000 lb Cat loader also lives here.

The compact is worth more as few value large old loaders here. It cost well under half the price of the larger farm tractors I was considering. My large loader (8' wide 3 yd bucket) was the answer to my dreams. Oh, they also have 4 wheel brakes for the 4x4. Real nice on my mountain.

have 4440 with or without loader just no longer need 21000 pkg or 16500 tractor.

I think that one is a little big for him.

... but step up to a 46/5600 if you can - better hydraulics, which will be a plus for loader work.

my advice?go to your local dealer you can trust to be there ,and buy whatever brand that happens to be.Buy one big enough you can expand because once you get a loader its never big enough!LOL

And,,remember there is NO farm tractor designed or built ever ,to run a loader( even though we all got our prefferences).every one is a add on option.when you put a loader on one you stress things that you wouldnt even think of.which makes a dealer important.They will do it,but at a cost. if you specifically need a loader and nothing else, a real loader ,built for that purpose,is the way to go.and truthfully you could buy one for probably half of what a big enough tractor would cost,if you watch construction auctions.I have myself five tractors with loaders on them,so i use them too,but if you ever used a real loader you'd see the difference immediatly.they are simply a different type machine all around.

Not quite. Most new utility tractor makers supply the max loadings and loader attachment engineering details to the loader manufacturers. Many even provide the joystick and valve from the factory.

I'm not sure what more you want to be designed to run a loader.

note i did not say you couldnt put one on,but next time you get a chance take a look at a loaders front end ,and note the differences in your farm tractor,even a utility tractor. look at the wheels, how many wheels have you seen broken on a farm tractor with a front loader? how many axles? how many power steering pumps or gearboxes?,notice the frames and the methods of mounting , quite frankly if I were a tractor dealer or manufacturer id give you a valve too if you bought a front loader!LOL

Get a MF 165 like you said or even a 175 and put a front pump on it for more Hyd capacity.

1. I've never seen any wheels broken on a farm tractor with front
loader except on ytmag, and they were rusted out. I've seen
antique tractors damaged from cobbled together loaders.

2. Never seen problems with PS except an old IH 584 we had with
a 2250 loader and weak pump. With a heaping bucket of gravel
she had a hard time steering fast.

3. Never seen gear box problems, unless you count short clutch
life in dry clutch loader tractors.

4. The frames and mounting, my small Kubota with a 2000 lb
full lift rated loader is built with front loader bosses cast into the
motor and the has torque arms that go to the rear axle.

My MF has an aftermarket ALO loader rated at something like
4000 lb, with formed plates that form a subframe front to the
middle, then reach under with torque arms to the rear. Its got
4000 hours on the wet clutch reverser without any problems, the
whole point of a wet clutch reverser is for loader use. Sort of
pointless to pay for it if not used with a loader. The ride control
on the loader with the previous owners lack of greasing has
ruined about 100$ of oilite bushings but that is a quick fix.

I will say, 2wd dry clutch non-sync tractors make poor loader
tractors. Most mfwd wet clutch reverser equipped tractors make
dandy loaders. Are they going to outperform a TLB moving big
buckets of gravel? No, but that TLB loader isn't going to pickup
manure or round bales any better.

I'm quite liking my 202 Massey Ferguson since I converted to a fully hydrostatic power steering system. I can load that bucket full of gravel, mud, clay, you name it and still steer with a single finger and that is with grooved ag tires on it. The loader was very well built as far as I'm concerned and attaches to the rear end and the front end. Probably helps that it was designed as an industrial tractor and not like it's ag cousin the 35 but I feel that it is a very competent machine for the odd jobs I do with it.
Now if you plan on using it as a loader for every day use, then you might want to do as suggested and buy an actual loader.
I myself am looking (passively as I can't really afford one now) for a second tractor but I'm looking for the opposite, one without a loader but with a good 3 pt. and PTO etc. for brush hogging etc.
I might do it with the 202 but it would be much simpler and have better weight distribution on a tractor without a loader.

now thats funny!,1 -neighbore buys at least two front wheels for his jd a year (from jd)2- ive fought ps on fords for years with a front loader,( and have broken wheels also)3 -never had much clutch troubles except on a 3000 ford 4- how many actual loaders have you seen with loaders arms attached to the motor ? come on,i aint arguing with you,like i say I run 4 myself.im simply telling him that if he needs a loader only theres better options than a farm tractor!a loader on a farm tractor actually used to farm with is in the way about 90% of the time.exactly how many loaders have you seen with arms twisted or broken from loading round bales? forks break regularly on my places,you must have some very smooth feilds!how much force exactly is put on a 4000 lb loaders arms when you have a round bale raised and drop a front wheel in a gopher or badger hole?10 tons ? 20 tons?how many folks have you heard of that were killed or crippled for life when they put a round bale in a bucket and it rolled down the arms?doesnt happen on a self leveling bucket.which 99.9% of the tractor loaders dont have.the plain and simple fact is if a man just needs a loader,hes better off with a loader.if he wants a loader on his tractor,buy what your local dealer can support.doesnt do me much good to buy a kubota if i have to drive 100 miles to get parts.especially when theres a case,jd,and ford dealer within 20 miles.