- Thread starter ed will
- Start date
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
How many wires and what colors do you have at the pump now? Of those what colors are connected to the circuit breaker or fuses at the supply end of the cable to the pump?
john in la
Well-known Member
You can buy 240 volt light bulbs.
47fivewindow
Well-known Member
- Location
- Davidsonville Md.
Good solution, Jeff
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
I have gone one leg to ground, but I don't think it's legal, but to make it safe I drove a ground rod at the location, and connected the ground wire to it. A 220v bulb would be the legal way, but then you would need a double pole switch.
Run a wire from the red to the switch. Other wire on switch goes to the light socket. Other side of light socket goes to ground. So what I would be doing is take a 122 wire from the power source to the switch box. Black wire goes to the red, white goes on ground and bare goes to the box(maybe the same). from switch to light box you run a 122. In switch box both black wires get hooked to switch and white gets marr connected together(marrets). at the light white and black get hocked to light. all bare wires get screwed to metal boxes.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
Using a grounded conductor for a neutral doesn't meet code. It will work, but not correct or legal. Simplest solution is to wire a 240 volt light bulb, use a two pole switch to control it. Bulb is a bit pricey, but should last a long time in a pump house.
Ed, here we go, its electrical or legal so look for a ton of opinions. I'm long retired n rusty (NOT current on latest codes or NEC so no warranty) from my days as a power distribution design engineer but FWIW will give you my opinion.
1) You say its "regular 24 volt wiring" wellllllllllll if it was wired according to most codes including NEC or professionally installed, there's a good chance it has Two Hots L1 & L2 (240 VAC) PLUS an Equipment GroundING (Bare/Green) Conductor BUT NO NEUTRAL. If it were jury rigged or installed by a non electrician or Billy Bob or Bubba I have no idea what you have.
2) The codes (if any where applicable or adopted in your jurisdiction) or a professional would NOTTTTTTT wire the Bare/Green Equipment GroundING Conductor for use as a Neutral (typically White) to carry normal return current so NOOOOOOOOOO you cant properly use 120 volts in the event you only have L1 & L2 and an Equipment GroundING Conductor available absent a true Neutral.
3) YES Billy Bob and Bubba or those electrically challenged it would "work" and light a 120 Volt bulb as there's 120 VAC from L1 or L2 to the Bare/Green GroundING Conductor BUT SUCH IS A CODE AND SAFETY VIOLATION use at your own risk
4) One choice is to use a 240 Volt bulb which can be properly powered using the two hots L1 & L2, NO Neutral required.
5) While sure it would work to use two 120 volt bulbs in series that's NOT my preference.
NOTE Neutral is NOTTTTTTTTT the same nor is to be used (or vice versa) as the Bare Green Equipment GroundING Conductor. Neutral carries normal return current its a live and insulated (for good reason) hot current carrying conductor. The Equipment GroundING Conductor is ONLY to carry fault current NEVER normal return current.
Sure you could install a true proper 120/240 volt service by installing FOUR Conductors, L1 L2 Neutral & Equipment GroundING Conductor, but if all you need is a light Id consider a 240 volt bulb.
John T Longggggggg retired n rusty EE so no warranty
1) You say its "regular 24 volt wiring" wellllllllllll if it was wired according to most codes including NEC or professionally installed, there's a good chance it has Two Hots L1 & L2 (240 VAC) PLUS an Equipment GroundING (Bare/Green) Conductor BUT NO NEUTRAL. If it were jury rigged or installed by a non electrician or Billy Bob or Bubba I have no idea what you have.
2) The codes (if any where applicable or adopted in your jurisdiction) or a professional would NOTTTTTTT wire the Bare/Green Equipment GroundING Conductor for use as a Neutral (typically White) to carry normal return current so NOOOOOOOOOO you cant properly use 120 volts in the event you only have L1 & L2 and an Equipment GroundING Conductor available absent a true Neutral.
3) YES Billy Bob and Bubba or those electrically challenged it would "work" and light a 120 Volt bulb as there's 120 VAC from L1 or L2 to the Bare/Green GroundING Conductor BUT SUCH IS A CODE AND SAFETY VIOLATION use at your own risk
4) One choice is to use a 240 Volt bulb which can be properly powered using the two hots L1 & L2, NO Neutral required.
5) While sure it would work to use two 120 volt bulbs in series that's NOT my preference.
NOTE Neutral is NOTTTTTTTTT the same nor is to be used (or vice versa) as the Bare Green Equipment GroundING Conductor. Neutral carries normal return current its a live and insulated (for good reason) hot current carrying conductor. The Equipment GroundING Conductor is ONLY to carry fault current NEVER normal return current.
Sure you could install a true proper 120/240 volt service by installing FOUR Conductors, L1 L2 Neutral & Equipment GroundING Conductor, but if all you need is a light Id consider a 240 volt bulb.
John T Longggggggg retired n rusty EE so no warranty
kcm.MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- NW Minnesota
You want a light. Are you wanting it to see with inside the pump house, or are you trying to know when the pump is running?
Personally, I would try to go LED. They work great in both hot and cold, they're instant on, and they last lots longer than incandescent or fluorescent lights. I have 2 spotlights similar to the one below, plus an older one made by Stanley. It's amazing how much light they put out, how long it lasts on a charge, plus you have a light for use ANYWHERE you need it. No wiring required.
If you only need light, you could get a portable LED spotlight similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Spotlight-Fl...=LED+spotlight&qid=1572444614&sr=8-15
If you prefer a flood light, maybe something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-XQO...ED+flood+light&qid=1572444790&sr=8-17
There's also solar lights for permanent installation:
https://www.amazon.com/Hikeren-Wate...solar+LED+light&qid=1572444931&sr=8-5
Personally, I would try to go LED. They work great in both hot and cold, they're instant on, and they last lots longer than incandescent or fluorescent lights. I have 2 spotlights similar to the one below, plus an older one made by Stanley. It's amazing how much light they put out, how long it lasts on a charge, plus you have a light for use ANYWHERE you need it. No wiring required.
If you only need light, you could get a portable LED spotlight similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Spotlight-Fl...=LED+spotlight&qid=1572444614&sr=8-15
If you prefer a flood light, maybe something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-XQO...ED+flood+light&qid=1572444790&sr=8-17
There's also solar lights for permanent installation:
https://www.amazon.com/Hikeren-Wate...solar+LED+light&qid=1572444931&sr=8-5
47fivewindow
Well-known Member
- Location
- Davidsonville Md.
After further thought any 240 feed will require a double pole switch so the wires and the shell of the lamp will not be hot with the switch off. I try not to set traps for people who will be tying to fix things after I'm gone. Billy Bob Chip.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Put a socket on the ceiling and screw in a 220 volt light bulb. Mark the socket with 220 volt bulb only. Buy several to keep it going. Jim
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Many LED's will work from 120-277v.
Yes...a 220/240 bulb will work dandy. Something to mention. They used to be Street Light bulbs. The smaller ones from 200 to 300 watt have an Edison base on them. The bigger ones all the way up to 800 and 1000 watt have the bigger Mogule base. They are huge. I have one set up so it plugs into the 240 on my generator. Lights up the whole yard. Have fun.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
Actually you should say to make it more un safe I drove a ground rod . Now the current you are intentionally running to ground is electrifying the soil around the rod and will electrocute a child or dog. Not a neutral in sight in that circuit.
Super H Mike
Member
I had the same desire to have a light in my well pit at another property I used to live at, for a while I just used a 12 volt battery and 12 volt light bulb and just charged battery as needed, which lasted a long time with only occasional use. I had it wired with a socket and switch just like residential wiring would be. then someone told me I could buy a 220 bulb, so I ended up switching it around to use that which was the best solution. I had my uncle wire it so I am not sure how it was laid out.
RobCons
Well-known Member
- Location
- Central Alabama
If all you want is some light and not a heat source what about one or two of the stick up lights. Battery powered, just bump to turn on/off, led will last a long time.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
Ground wires do not carry current in any normal situation. No current on a ground unless fault current .Grounds are to trip the breakers. Neutral is called a current carrying conductor . You CANNOT use one leg of a ground for a lighting circuit. NO way No how.
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
You would need a neutral. Having an existing wire already there without the neutral it would be easier to run a 110v line just for the light. You might just bury some underground feeder wire for this.
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