Electric Outlet

Show me a picture or provide a link to a surface mount electric box that will pass residential code.
I understand the wire to the box will have to be in conduit.

What I am trying to do.
I have a older mobile home my son lives in.
The wall outlets are run with 14 gauge wire to multiple plugs.
I do not feel this wire will support a window A/C or space heater when things are plugged in other plugs in the line.
So I ran a dedicated 12 gauge wire to the area to run the window A/C.
Im trying to avoid tearing into the wall so I want to mount a box either on the wall or at the intersection of the wall and the floor,
The wire will come up through the floor next to the wall.
But this can not be some rigged up garage concoction as young children live in the house.
So it has to pass code.
 
Search "wiremold" on 'Depot, Lowes, etc. for semi-decorative surface mount electrical supplies. You can also use regular EMT conduit and electrical boxes for probably less $ but less decorative as well.

As for anything in a MH meeting residential code, that's a big negative, they build to RV code which is far from residential standard.
 
If it was me I would cut a hole just above the base molding and install a shallow snap in box. Pull the molding and cut a groove for the wire with a Dremel or something similar and then hide it with the molding. Nice, neat and legal.

You can get the box with spring type sheet metal sides or with ears that lock in place when you turn the screw and tighten. A standard snap in box is too deep for trailer walls so be sure to get the shallow box.
 
A metal EMT box has all those holes in the side.
OK for a garage but I am trying to stay away from that with young kids.

I was thinking a box like this that has the screw in plugs making the outside totally enclosed.
Problem I have with this is the face plate is usually bigger than the box.
Anything that catches on the face plate may break it off.


cvphoto155468.png



So is this the box you are talking about.
Looks clean and smooth on the outside.
Does this use a normal plug and faceplate.
Is the box as big as the faceplate with no overhang.
Do they make them with the plug and faceplate already included in a kit.



cvphoto155469.png
 
John.
I want it to pass residential code.
In Indiana the only time your electrical will be inspected is when you get a permit to build a new construction or you are adding onto a house, spending more than $600. So I wouldn't have to get any small job inspected, but done right.

If I were to add a surface mounted box, I would make sure I can attach it to the wall at the stud. Drill a hole in the floor and run PVC conduit up through the floor and back to the load center. I would use 2 wire 12g, and a ground wire, 20 amp breaker.
If you don't want to buy a spool of 12g wire, you might be able to slide 12-2 w/ ground inside PVC.

My BIL used a heat gun to bend the PVC conduit on his boat dock in Florida.
I bet you will be in for a shock(no pun intended) when you price everything..
 
The Wiremold products use standard electrical devices, unlike Mobile Homes which have their own ultra-cheap variants that do not meet Residential Code.

Wiremold has been around for many decades and is commonly used in commercial buildings as well, often on masonry construction.
 
As has been mentioned before Wiremold products are what you are looking for. They sell code compliant raceway, boxes and accessories that standard outlets, switchs and covers fit. I have used it many times in residential, commercial and even in my camper to add an outlet.
 
(reply to post at 14:42:40 05/28/23)
As for anything in a MH meeting residential code, that's a big negative, they build to RV code which is far from residential standard.


Maybe up north, but for the last 40 or 50 years they have been built to a better than RV code.
Per national standards and more so in areas likely to see hurricanes and/or tornadoes.

I have never seen an RV built with 2x6 exterior walls or a roof that does not leak in five years, etc.
 
"Older Mobil home." . . How much older?

If it is old enough to have the old wood paneling. How do you plan on attaching the outlet to the wall and make it stay?

Personal opinion.

I would install an infloor outlet before I would try to attach something to the wall and run conduit to it. Be much cleaner and safer. And yes, they do pass inspection.
 
(quoted from post at 17:14:56 05/28/23)
(reply to post at 14:42:40 05/28/23)

I'm in the southwest (TX) and I've looked at what they sell these days and yes, the Mobile Homes are indeed still built to RV code.

What you are referring to is what they are calling "Modular Homes" which are being built to residential code, however in the south they are really just glorified Mobile Homes built a bit better quality, but still a large footprint, singly story mobile home design on cheap I beams and piers rather than a real perimeter foundation.

In the Northeast at least what they call "Modular Homes" are very different and are essentially sectionalised conventional residential construction that match the same quality as a site built home. I have seen a modular two story house craned onto a proper basement foundation in a half dozen pieces and the result is pretty much identical to a site built house.
 
In the floor would be clean but I would be worried about floor dirt getting into the plug over the years.
The window is framed with 2 bys. Might be 2 x 3 but it is still 2 bys.
Easy to mount to wall and hit the stud.

What I am thinking now is to get one of these wiremold boxes; and mount it where the floor and wall meet with the plug facing out not up.

Another option is one of the wiremold boxes looks like it mounts to a box in the wall so it does not protrude out from the wall so far.
If that is the case I could cut a hole in the wall and put a ear mount box in the wall.
Then with the wiremold box extension it would give me room to run to run a raceway for the wire up to the box.

Im not really having a problem mounting the box in the wall.
The problem I am having is getting the wire up the wall to the box.
Under the wall is double 2x6 so I do not see a way to come from the bottom into the bottom of the wall unless I start tearing out insulation and stuff to have enough room to work.
The raceway on the face of the wall to run the wire just makes it so much easier.

But I would like to thank you guys.
You have given me ways to think about and get this done as I did not know about the wiremold system.
 
This is an older mobile home but it has plastic ear type boxes and regular outlets with a faceplate.
Only difference in it and a house is the boxes are ear mounted in the wall rather than nailed to the stud.
That and the fact they did not use the screws on the plug to attach the wire. They used the push in holes on the back of the
plug.

But yes a lot of mobile homes I have seen have a one piece box where they lay the wire in the back and prongs poke the wire
insulation when you close the back. About like those flip over wire connectors you use on a car to add a trailer light plug
without cutting and splicing the car wires.
 
I would surface mount a 1900 (4 BY 4 inch ) box on the wall with 1/2 inch emt through the floor. Would use the cover that fit the receptacle. I am thinking you are feeding it with romex so should be good to go.
A little hint on finding the right spot to drill floor, take a standard clothes hanger, cut the straight section out. This gives you a nice straight rod, chuck it up on your drill. Locate the area and drill the rod down through the floor noting the distance from the wall, go under the trailer and locate the coat hanger. Now you know exactly where you are and no damage to building. This works on ceilings as well, a tiny bit of spackle will hide your hole and no damage to carpet either. joe, retired sparkey
PS Be very careful drilling through carpet, the carpet will unravile fast if caught in a drill.
 
(reply to post at 19:45:12 05/28/23)
What I am thinking now is to get one of these wiremold boxes; and mount it where the floor and wall meet with the plug facing out not up.

That sounds like a bad place for the plug and cord getting bashed by the vacuum/floor cleaner and kids toys banging into it??

If the outlet is for the a/c only, maybe just use the wiremold thru floor, up wall and directly into the a/c and hard wire it in.
I almost did that but the outlet is right beside the window A/C
I mounted thru the wall.
 
14 gauge wire was really intended for lighting. Then to cheap out they started wiring outlets with it too. Anyway what is the amperage rating of the AC. With 12 gauge you should try to keep the draw to 16 amps or less.
 
Rule of thumb.
120v window AC will not use more than 12 amps.

220v window AC will not use more than about 16 amps.

I'm guessing you have a 120v unit.
They may show the watts instead of amps.
Divide watts by 120 volts to get the amps.
 
Last time I looked at the code, a 15A duplex receptacle (you can plug 2 appliances into it) can be served with a 20 A fuse, or just buy a heavier duty 20A duplex if you are going to be running decent amperage most ot the time. A plastic grey electrical, rigid conduit and an outdoor (water resistant) box with cover over the receptacles, makes a nice installation.
 

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