How to check well submersible pump

Rkh

Member
I bought next door lot with pump in well & no electricity. Got around to put
generator with 220v to pressure switch on submersible pump. The tank & pressure
switch is in well housing pictured. No water came in tank. The well pump has been
unused for more than 2yrs. Can you check pump motor with pump in well by taking
cover off well casing, or because of the pump being in water, it has to be
pulled? How do I check pump-touching both wires with ohms meter(no 220v of
course)
cvphoto145372.jpg
 
If the pump is trying to run, you should hear the generator load when the connection was made to the pump.

How many wires go down to the pump? If there are 3 wires and a green, usually a black, white, and yellow, there should be a start capacitor and relay box located up top.

If 2 wires and a green, then there is no capacitor. Power to each wire should make the pump run. If the lines are connected to a double breaker, it will be 230v, if a single breaker, 120v.

The green may or may not be there, it is a safety ground.
 
Are the contacts closed on the pressure switch? If not, take a screwdriver and close them, switch might be stuck from sitting, and/or take power away and clean contacts.
 
As Steve indicates if connected and no change in generator load it probably needs to be pulled. You might jump directly to the wires going to the pump. if no joy and no load the circuit iss probably open or the motor open. If load and no water, don't run it more than a minute, the motor is likely stuck/frozen and might be able to be freed if pulled. Jim
 
I had 120v's on all 4 terminal screws on the pressure switch & contacts closed while running generator, but load on generator didn't change.
 
If you had voltage on all 4 wires that means you had power trying to go to the pump motor but if the pump was not running and you had no load of any sort then the pump is burned out or you have bad wires going to the pump motor
 
X2
If the pump is trying to run, you should hear the generator load when the connection was made to the pump.

The motor on my sister's pump froze up, bad bearings.
It was drawing excessive current.

My generator can not start most motors.

Generator just strains.
 
Is the generator large enough to supply all the surge current required to get the pump started? The starting current could be several times the running current on the name plate.
 
The leads that take power to the motor should be connected through the motor (0.5 ohm). The ground should not be connected to either power lead unless there is a problem (open or infinite resistance is normal).
 
If the answers about ohms and continuity are Greek to you do this. Connect your generator again. Disconnect one of the wires from the pressure switch that run to the pump, the switch should break both contacts for both leads if anybody with a brain at all installed it. Now turn on pump and make sure you read approximately 120 on the wire you left connected to the pump. If so you should read the same voltage on the wire coming off the pump you just disconnected, this shows continuity through the motor indicating the possibility the pump motor may be good. If not your motor has an open in it or there is a bad connection in the wiring down in the well. If you do show 120 on the wire from the pump you disconnected being able to light a incandescent household bulb off that would be a secondary test that would give additional hope that the pump is still good but somehow proper power is not getting to it.
 

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