Wico C no spark, points?

I'm having a issue w/ my JD H Wico C (similar to some I've read in the archives here). The mag worked fine after I got the tractor(once i put a new cap on it). After the tractor sat indoors for a year, I got motivated to change oil and fix coolant pipe leaks. Got ready to start it and no spark. The points never did look good, so I disconnected the coil & condenser wires and checked for continuity (across the points) w/ my ohm meter, (and there was none). Since I had a new set of points on the shelf (that I bought from the German sounding name catalog guys) I put those in (found out that I had to whittle the corners of the spring side contact holder for free motion ) gaped them, and still no spark. OHMed them out with the meter and no continuity , I polished them with a rouge cloth, dollar bill and business card, i could then get continuity thru them , but only if I lifted the spring side and let them roll off my thumb to snap closed (continuity wasn't repeatable). Still getting no spark, after reading several posts here I'm starting to conclude that I have a bad set of points. I looked @ NAPA (per a archived post here), they don't offer the CS2200 (only 2201 which from the pics don't look like a replacement). Any thoughts on my mag problem and a source for replacement points? Thanks!

Take the old point to some place Like O'Reilly's and they should be able to match them up in one of there books and then if not on hand order them for you

Thanks, I did find a set on Ebay (X3343), we'll see how those work.....

When testing your points are you sure they were on the flat part if the shaft thus the points weren't being held open?
Dave

Rather that using things with ink or oil from peoples' hands on them, burnish the points with a strip of clean, white cardstock.

Then, with the points ''open'' flush away the residue with spray electric contact cleaner and allow to air dry with the points still ''open''.

Close the points so there is again spring tension on them and repeat the burnishing process, then open them and repeat the spray cleaning, again allowing the cleaner to air-dry with the points ''open''.

At this point, there should be good continuity to through them when closed.

Then, gap them with a CLEAN feeler gauge that has also been cleaned with contact cleaner and allowed to air dry.

To many people miss that step, and use a feeler gauge that has been used to gap oily tappets or other things, and/or has fingerprints on it.

Points need to be CLEAN to work and even oil from skin can mess them up.

I learned this from my late Uncle who did a LOT of magneto and distributor work and PREACHED the cleanliness thing!

Thanks, the plastic rubber block (that runs on the mag shaft/cam)of the points are fully clear (not touching)of the shaft when taking measurements.

While there may be other things going on (condensor, coil, impulse assembly, etc) I agree looks like your points have a problem...Even with a perfect set of points if your spring wind n trip impulse assembly isnt working theres no spark at cranking speeds.

Is it hand or elec cranking when theres no spark ?? Does the Mag make a loud sharp SNAP each 180 of revolution IE is the impulse assembly working ?? If so NO spark. Theres no kill switch function grounding out the points right ??? Are the points gapped correct such that they go FULL CLOSED thats needed for good continuity of course ??

Try Brillman or www.wiringharnesses.com

John T

Many good points here (pun intended). Thank you . After some thought, I disconnected the coil and cap wires from the points again, this time I re-attached the spring side (w/o coil or cap connection) of the points to the nylon non-conducting contact. (I took my readings before w/ the points spring disconnected but wedged against the mag housing.) Now that the points spring was mounted simulating the tension it would see under operating conditions, I got repeatable continuity readings across the points. Then I took a jumper wire and connected the coil & cap wire to the points spring and cranked the flywheel, resulting in a robust spark. So I must conclude, the reason I wasn't getting any spark before is that the points were grounding out somewhere (which was suggested here) I will troubleshoot that with confidence (knowing that the mag is functional) . I appreciate your inputs!

Just a post-script, now that I had spark @ the coil, I re-attached the coil & condenser wire to the pivot side of the points (ohm-ing them and checking for spark @ the coil at every step). Put on the cap & rotor (successfully got spark @ both connections @ the cap). Splashed some gas into the tractor, cranked it and it fired right up. (Why I didn't have any spark in the first place is a mystery to me). Happy Holidays!