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How to adjust water tank pressure switch on well pump?

R

Rkh

Member
My 240v well submersible pump is kicking on at 42lbs & off at 50lbs. I want to kick on at 30lbs and off at 50lbs. I have The square D pressure switch-this is my switch that is pictured.
cvphoto109958.jpg
 
One of the two self locking nuts is the cut in the other is cut out. The model number of the switch will likely find a on Line operating instructions for it. There is a range that is reliable and should not be exceeded. Look it up. Jim
 
All the pressure switches I have ever had, had the info you want right in the cover it self. I.E. it explains how to adjust the switch
 
If I rememberright the shorter adjustment is the cut in and the center/taller one is the cut off
 


The large nut adjusts both cut-in and cut-out at the same time. The small one adjust only the cut-out enabling you to narrow or broaden the range. So you back the big one out in order to get down to 30 then turn the little one in, in order to get the cut-out up to 50. I would go with a 25 lb. range
 
With Forty years of farm well water pumps systems if I needed to raise the pressure the ONLY thing I ever did was to tighten in that big locknut and I didn't mess with the smaller one which worked fine.

John T
 
That's fine if your differential is OK, but his is kind of close together. That would be OK if you have a big pressure tank, but otherwise it makes your pump start/stop too much, which is not good for them.
 
I used the biggest tanks available and I agree that helps. I never had any short cycling problems and I'm talking a ton of different brands and types of pumps. In later years I used the captive air bladder tanks.

Best wishes nice chatting with you

John T
 
Rkh,

Large spring is for adjusting the RANGE, cut in cut out. Loosen that nut a few turns and see what happens. The tank bladder pressure should be 2# ponds less then the cut in pressure.

You should have a 20 pound cut in and cut out differential. If your differential stays the same as now, you can then adjust the high pressure cut off with the small spring adjust nut,

Guido.
 
Seems you got all kinds of answers.

The big nut adjust the cut off pressure.
Tightening it a quarter turn will raise the cut off and cut on pressure by 2 or 3 lbs.

The small nut adjust the difference between the cut on and cut off pressure.
I really do not recommend messing with this adjustment because it is hard to get the factory setting of 20 lbs.
If you have never messed with it your spring is most likely loosing tension.
Since we are talking less than $30 I would replace the whole switch with new.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:22 12/05/21) Seems you got all kinds of answers.

The big nut adjust the cut off pressure.
Tightening it a quarter turn will raise the cut off and cut on pressure by 2 or 3 lbs.

The small nut adjust the difference between the cut on and cut off pressure.
I really do not recommend messing with this adjustment because it is hard to get the factory setting of 20 lbs.
If you have never messed with it your spring is most likely loosing tension.
Since we are talking less than $30 I would replace the whole switch with new.
Click to expand...

John, from what I read here most answers are a little different but pretty much agreeing. I have adjusted many of these for customers. I have never found it hard to get it where I want it. These controls being usually just above basement floor level tend to get condensation and corrosion on them pretty quickly in my experience. This one is still shiny new so I wouldn't discard it, I would adjust it for my personal needs. They are adjustable for various reasons.
 

In order to reduce the number of stop start cycles. The pump system here is set for 25-60psi.
The differential small nut was backed off until there was barely any spring tension, then tightened two turns.
Adjusted the large nut to obtain a cutout pressure of 60psi.
Actually works well for watering the tree plantation etc. The spray pattern varies and provides better coverage.
 
Pump cycling on and off is a symptom of a waterlogged pressure tank. This means there is no air pocket above the water in the tank. There is a valve on the side of the tank that lets a little air in ever time the tank empties down below the water level when operating and lets a little air in. Also there is a bleed valve in the first pipe joint in the well that lets the water bleed down below the valve and when the pump starts this air is injected into the tank to create the air above the water. If it is a tank with a bladder then the bladder may be busted.
 
(quoted from post at 11:42:16 12/06/21) Pump cycling on and off is a symptom of a waterlogged pressure tank. This means there is no air pocket above the water in the tank. There is a valve on the side of the tank that lets a little air in ever time the tank empties down below the water level when operating and lets a little air in. Also there is a bleed valve in the first pipe joint in the well that lets the water bleed down below the valve and when the pump starts this air is injected into the tank to create the air above the water. If it is a tank with a bladder then the bladder may be busted.
Click to expand...


Hurley, the system that you describe is very outdated. I have seen one or two of those but not in the last 45 years. They have all been replaced with bladder tanks.
 
my cabin in the Catskills had that type of system it had a crawl space where the well pipe could freeze so they installed the two valves so the pipe would drain down below frost line--i think the valve on the tank was called a sniffer valve---it would release air also if too much was in the tank
 
Not here the drillers still install as I referenced because of some gas in the water that makes smell like rotten eggs.
 
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