Electric Clutch Question

Bought a used Toro commercial walk behind two years ago. Has worked great. Mowed with it today. Ran and mowed fine for maybe 20 minutes, then started to stumble and nearly die. As if out of gas. Soon realized that if electric clutch is disengaged it will run fine. Re-engage clutch, it stumbles or even dies. If I let it sit for 15 minutes, I can mow again for 10 minutes or so.

Still learning how to trouble shoot an electric clutch and such. I figure someone here can point me in the right direction.

Most google searches lead me to pages about the engine dying when clutch gets engaged. Mine works like a dream for 20 minutes. But then nearly dies unless/until I disengage the clutch.

Heat related? But how? Where do I start? How does the clutch being engaged make the engine stumble? Somehow spark related?

Kawasaki V twin on it. Thank so much.
 
I should not try to answer your problem, but I will. Is the charging system working properly? Are you running the engine speed at full throttle? Some charging systems do not put out enough amps at a reduced engine speed and then other problems pop up.
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:13 03/05/21) I should not try to answer your problem, but I will. Is the charging system working properly? Are you running the engine speed at full throttle? Some charging systems do not put out enough amps at a reduced engine speed and then other problems pop up.

When running I'm getting about 14.4 volts across battery terminals with and without the clutch engaged, both right at start-up when it all works and also later when it starts to stumble. Showing about 13.8 volts at the electric clutch plug where it goes into harness.

Running at full throttle.

Don't have a way to measure amp output, but battery stays charged.
 
If the battery is staying charged, the charging system is fine.

I would check that the mower blades turn freely before starting engine, assuming there's no brake that engages when the clutch is released. The run it until it starts acting up, then shut everything down and see if something is dragging when you try to turn the blades. You might have a bearing going out.
 
P.S. Obviously I'm beyond my knowledge here or I wouldn't need to ask... but I'll add that the engine manual I have says it's a magneto system. I don't quite see how the clutch could impact that. Fuel pump is not electric either. I also can't see how the clutch would impact it. But as I said I'm obviously at the edge of my knowledge hence the need for a question.

It runs fine for a bit. Then it starts to stumble. Then worse. If I choke it it will run a bit better for a time. Eventually it will die if I do nothing. But as soon as I disengage the clutch it smooths out and runs fine.
 

Ted, I do believe you nailed it. Pulled fuel line off. Just a dribble. So removed it all. Cleaned/checked each part. Found the shut-off valve was partially clogged with crud. Put it all back together. Great flow. And it seems to run fine for as long as I want. I guess the real test will be next actual mowing, but I think this was the problem.

I should have thought of that. But it seemed to have great mowing power for the first while of mowing so I just didn't think of a clogged fuel line. And yet... there it was, obviously clogged when I pulled it apart.

I think you got me back up and running in roughly an hour since I posted. Thank you.
 
I'm leaning toward fuel delivery problems.

As soon as you disengage the clutch, the engine load is reduced dramatically.

Less load = less fuel demand.

Check the pump, the lines, filter, the change over valve if dual tanks.

Also if there is a solenoid valve on the carb bowl, it can be overheating and failing or the tip is loose causing it to restrict fuel flow through the main jet.

I don't think it is the charging system as the battery is staying up, no starting problems.

The ignition is magneto, so not battery dependent, but there are be safety devices that can stop the engine. There should be a black (I think) wire that kills the spark, it will be connected to the coils. Locate that wire and disconnect it just for a test run. That will disable the safetys and engine stop.
 

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