Spraying the inside of a new air tank

kcm.MN

Well-known Member
Location
NW Minnesota
Didn't want to hijack wsmm's thread.

Just got a new 11 gal. portable tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Portable-Horizontal-Gallon-Capacity/dp/B00CZ8FIFC

It will be used to blow water out of a 1'' x 300' line during winter so the line stays clear, and will be used nearly every day, up to several times per day. Tank outlet will be rotated so that it faces down, making any standing moisture the first thing to go out. Pressure will be set to 100 PSI.

I've been considering taking a linseed oil/paraffin wax mixture and working it around by rotating the tank, thoroughly coating all areas. Might even do it twice just to make sure! The linseed oil/wax mixture is essentially the basic ingredients used in making DIY tin cloth, similar to those that Filson makes (filson.com). Since wax is also good for metal surfaces, seems like it might be worth trying. What do you think?

Do you think this will protect the tank long-term?

Will the varying air pressure or the quick loss of pressure make this kind of coating fallible?

Would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance!!
 
i have one of those for at least 15 years or more so in the summer time. i dont see any rust poking out yet. plus it not like a compressor
that makes moisture. in this case you are adding a dryer air, so make sure the air coming out of compressor is moisture drained. this tank
dont even have a drain on it.
 
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I wouldn't worry about it. Virtually no moisture going in, drained daily. it will outlast you and whoever is next
 
I had originally written up a ''Full Disclosure'' OP, but took most of it away thinking it wasn't needed. Well, here goes:

We live in a wetlands area, and it's not unusual for our sump pump to pump even throughout the long Minnesota winters. We've had times when the sump pump pumped over 2,400 gallons per 24-hour period for months on end!! 20 years ago, I started with 1 1/2'' PVC pipe with heat tape. That worked OK, but the run wasn't long enough (only 40') and the water would drain through the ground back into the basement! Due to the low nature of the basement, that drain pipe comes out just 14'' above ground level. The longer the run, the more level the pipe. AND, the pipe has to be at least several inches off the ground to prevent ice buildup and eventual blockage of the pipe.

Later I switched to 3'' PVC. A sump pump can pump quite a bit of water, but not enough to fill a 3'' pipe. That pipe runs about 70' to the outside, but still creates problems in winter. Water will collect in between the pipes and, when it freezes, the pipe 'pops'. I've come to learn that the pipe is spreading apart. I have to use rubber connectors. Tried gluing the pipe, but when things go wrong at -40F, it's no fun trying to find the frozen spot(s), cut them out, clean, then re-glue them. So I use rubber connectors, which spread apart over time.

This next adventure will be using a small oil-free air compressor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKRLKM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that will fill its own tank (4.7 gal), plus the 11 gal tank. Both tanks will be situated so that all outgoing air exits the bottom of the tanks. All of this will be located in the basement, but that is a very wet area when the system will be needed.

I will be pumping the water through a 300' length of 1" PEX rated at 250 PSI. Come Spring, that pipe will get buried a few inches below the surface. The far end will angle up about 20'' above ground so that ice will never build up to where the water cannot exit.

There will be a 300 gallon tank for holding sump pit water. One small pump will necessarily cycle frequently, pumping its contents into the larger tank. Then a slightly larger pump will pump the water out.

When the tank nears empty, a float in the tank will shut off the pump and also trigger the release of air. That air will dump both tanks. When the air pressure drains to a low enough PSI, the valve will close so that the small compressor can refill both tanks. That should take less than 5 minutes, so that's easily enough time for recovery. MFGer's website says it fills the 4.7 gal. tank (0 to 125 PSI) in 106 seconds. Larger tank will only fill to 100 PSI. Should actually take just under 4 minutes.

This system will not be portable. It will be rigidly mounted so that outlets face downward. Everything [u:a4ff0947e2]must[/u:a4ff0947e2] be secure. Therefore, I want to treat the tanks one time, and one time only. I think this will work, but wanted to get the thoughts of the rest of you.

The compressor tank will fill to its max 125 PSI. Air to the 11-gal tank will be regulated to 100 PSI. As 11-gal tank is depleting, the air in the small tank will also be draining into the larger tank, effectively giving me appx. 15 gallons of 100 PSI air -- more than enough to evacuate the water from the 300' pipe.

I've read where straight boiled linseed oil has been used to coat the insides of motorcycle frames. Once dry, it protects against the frames rusting from the inside out. However, with the amount of moisture that will definitely be going through this system, I think it's more practical to add about 20% by weight paraffin or beeswax. Once dry, it would provide a fully waxed and fully waterproof coating. No sunlight means it should last indefinitely, right?

Every part of the system will be mechanical. When X happens, that triggers Y & Z, so to speak. It will be a hands-off system. Also, these two tanks will be located inside the basement of an old farmhouse. If anything ever did malfunction and go BOOM, then there's a good chance it could collapse a portion of the main floor! Yes, most leaks in air tanks are pinhole leaks, but again, this will be pumping very humid air into the tanks. I've also read how tanks will rust out faster if not FULLY coated and protected, so I will likely do the coating treatment twice, spending several hours to ensure complete coverage. ...Guess I could buy an endoscope though. Then I could look inside and check the progress.

Your thoughts????
 
There will also be sensors to warn if a water pump fails, as well as a second relief valve on the compressor set 10 PSI higher than the primary relief valve, plus another relief valve for the larger tank.

Already have sump pumps, including 2 spares. We live too far from town to not have spares! *lol*
 
I may be over cautious, but placing a hydrocarbon under
pressure in the presence of oxygen may be hazardous.
 
It wouldn't be under pressure while in liquid form. Once transformed to a dry coating, wouldn't the flammability factor be nil?
 
I think it would be more trouble than it's worth. If the inside of the tank isn't protected from the factory there is very little you could do to help it. It's my understanding the factories that treat the inside of tanks use a liquid backed on enamel which is
something none of us could probably do. The tank is filled with the enamel and then drained out before placing in an oven. If you are going to treat it don't use linseed oil. It's only good for porous materials and would probably never dry completely without
ventilation.
 
If you are pressurizing it with a standard compressor with crankcase oil in it, you will get an oil vapor coating inside just from the compressed air. A compressor pump passes some oil by the rings as it pumps air. The higher the humidity the more water collects inside the tank.Just drain it on a regular basis and carry on.
 
I'v got a tank about like that. I got it from Tractor Supply, about 1961.
When I first got it I hooked it to a small belt driven refrigeration compressor. Without a pressor switch, Just depended on the pop-off valve.
Haven't used much the last many years. It still holds air.

Dusty
 

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